OK let the Diagnosing and Guesswork begin! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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OK let the Diagnosing and Guesswork begin!

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this.

I don't think my bike is beyond repair. I can get it started, it's just a big ordeal.


I can list what I know is wrong with it in short order. 1985 K Vulcan 750cc so I know that actually its a 699cc. It's purple and the seat and all parts look to be in great condition. It's been garage kept and is surprisingly clean. 38000 miles and it was winterized every year and tuned up every spring, even for the last 4 years that the previous owner didn't ride anymore. (age, he hit 80 and decided he just couldn't ride anymore)
The first problem is that it is 120 miles away in my Bother in laws garage. I have no garage so I trailer'd it to his garage.

Battery won't charge. You can hook it up to a jump kit and quick charge it, and it will start. Once it starts it runs just fine. Smooth, even idle, and solid response on throttle up and down. You can ride it around and it has no problems it keeps running until all the gas leaks out. When you stop and turn it off, even after charging it and riding it for an hour, it's dead again and won't start without recharging and starting it while the quick charger is attached.
Starter relay replaced. 07/2011
Starter replaced.07.2011

Gas tank leak. Someone worked on it and when they put the gas tank back on they left the right side tank mount bushing off and tightened down the bolt to the hilt and there is a tiny but visible crack near the support flange and I'm pretty sure that's one of the leaks.
Second leak is coming from the petcock. The person who tried to fix it ordered a new petcock but ordered a 2005 petcock instead of a 1985.

The gas tank and petcock I can fix myself. I have no worries about that.

What I am looking for is a step by step process to help me resolve whether or not the stator and alternator are bad. I don't think they are. If it's like anything else with a motor and a battery, if its running and you disconnect the battery and the alternator is bad, it stops running.
Well when you disconnect the battery it keeps running.

I'm open to any ideas and procedures. I just can't guarantee I can do them and post the results in a timely fashion.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishynoise View Post
Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this.

I don't think my bike is beyond repair. I can get it started, it's just a big ordeal.


I can list what I know is wrong with it in short order. 1985 K Vulcan 750cc so I know that actually its a 699cc. It's purple and the seat and all parts look to be in great condition. It's been garage kept and is surprisingly clean. 38000 miles and it was winterized every year and tuned up every spring, even for the last 4 years that the previous owner didn't ride anymore. (age, he hit 80 and decided he just couldn't ride anymore)
The first problem is that it is 120 miles away in my Bother in laws garage. I have no garage so I trailer'd it to his garage.

Battery won't charge. You can hook it up to a jump kit and quick charge it, and it will start. Once it starts it runs just fine. Smooth, even idle, and solid response on throttle up and down. You can ride it around and it has no problems it keeps running until all the gas leaks out. When you stop and turn it off, even after charging it and riding it for an hour, it's dead again and won't start without recharging and starting it while the quick charger is attached.
Starter relay replaced. 07/2011
Starter replaced.07.2011

Gas tank leak. Someone worked on it and when they put the gas tank back on they left the right side tank mount bushing off and tightened down the bolt to the hilt and there is a tiny but visible crack near the support flange and I'm pretty sure that's one of the leaks.
Second leak is coming from the petcock. The person who tried to fix it ordered a new petcock but ordered a 2005 petcock instead of a 1985.

The gas tank and petcock I can fix myself. I have no worries about that.

What I am looking for is a step by step process to help me resolve whether or not the stator and alternator are bad. I don't think they are. If it's like anything else with a motor and a battery, if its running and you disconnect the battery and the alternator is bad, it stops running.
Well when you disconnect the battery it keeps running.

I'm open to any ideas and procedures. I just can't guarantee I can do them and post the results in a timely fashion.
For one thing it is not like a car,it runs off the battery,not the alternator,unhook the battery and it will die,good stator or no.don't do that!!!You do have a charging issue,read this link and do what it says
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8555. if the stator checks out good you need a R/R.

The gas tank leak has been some what common with tanks installed incorrectly,it's fixable and sounds like it needs painted anyway.




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 02:01 AM
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If your Reg/Rect is still located under the batt. box try pulling the 2 side covers off when you ride to let air flow and allow the R/R to cool.

If this helps then you need to move the R/R to the frame near the left passenger peg.

If the extra air doesn't help, you will likely need a new R/R and mount it out by the peg with a 3/4" P-clamp w/ rubber guard to protect the paint, or other method others have posted.

The R/R that I found on e-Bay had a pigtail on it w/ connector. This is great for the relocation.

Other than that, stator diagnostics is not something I've had to deal with 'caus mine works and I don't care yet.

-luck
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 02:22 AM
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Per the petcock: doesn't matter, the later one will work fine; the only difference is the new one says OFF where the old one says PRI, and the filters are different configuration. You can't get the older style anymore, anyway; it's been replaced by the newer one.

Put the new one on and get a rebuild kit for the old one; guts are the same for either.

Jim

J.D.
Kerrville, TX
'95 Vulcan 750 "Therapy II",
aka "Raggedy Ann"
'95 VN750 project
'03 VN800B "The Little Black"
'04 VN800E Drifter project
'93 VN1500A custom project
VROC #16185
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 03:11 AM Thread Starter
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So

So it was bad to pull the red wire off the battery while it was running?

That is absolutely news to me.

But we pulled the red wire and it was still running. What does that mean?

I understand everything about the testing in that thread you linked except one part.
It said to do a phase test while the motor is running. If I've pulled the wire from the plug, how do I run it and test the posts?
Most probably I didn't understand the whole description of that part.

PETCOCK. So I should be able to put the 2005 petcock into an 85? That's awesome since I still have the new petcock in the box.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishynoise View Post
So it was bad to pull the red wire off the battery while it was running?

That is absolutely news to me.

But we pulled the red wire and it was still running. What does that mean?

I understand everything about the testing in that thread you linked except one part.
It said to do a phase test while the motor is running. If I've pulled the wire from the plug, how do I run it and test the posts?
Most probably I didn't understand the whole description of that part.

PETCOCK. So I should be able to put the 2005 petcock into an 85? That's awesome since I still have the new petcock in the box.
first question ,bikes don't have a conventional alternator like a car,they don't cycle on and offf but constantly put out current and it ia regulated by shunting the excess to ground,while you bike may have run off of the charging system it is a no-no it put excessive loads on various components,

second question,turn your Meter to 100V AC scale and check between the yellow wires coming from the stator two at a time and compare your readings to the ones in the link.

third question ,yes, no problem




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 08:56 AM
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Quick note for your crack in the tank by the mounting flange. Mine cracked there too. I used JB Weld. Scuff up the area nice & good, then apply several coats where the crack is & extend your coats to partially wrap the flange & to extends to the body of the tank. This has proven to work for me.

It's not a perminant fix but it is holding up quite well. Eventually or initially pending on funds it should be welded. The fun part is finding someone who will & can do it. The tank walls are very thin.


Have you got your hands on a manual yet? I have a download in my signature. Oh yeah, Welcome Squishy!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 09:17 AM
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My tank cracked there. It popped the spot welds loose. If you have it welded, or do it yourself, measure exactly how far apart the mounting tabs are. You will need that measurement later. Drain as much of the gas out of the tank as possible. Remove the petcock and gas cap. Tie a rag to a string and poke it around (use a ruler) to absorb the rest of the liquid gas. Leave it in the sun until you can't smell gas any more before welding. I sped up the process by hooking up a vacuum cleaner in reverse so it would blow through the tank. You don't want to suck gas fumes into a vacuum cleaner! Could cause an explosion or fire.

More than likely, you will have to heat the tab and bend it out of the way in order to access the leak. Prep the tank for welding and weld beyond any visible cracks. Might have to grind down the welds if they will interfere with bending the tab back into place. Heat tab and bend it back to it's original position. Test to ensure the leak is fixed, paint welded area and you should be good to go.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts

Last edited by flitecontrol; 11-04-2011 at 09:19 AM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimV65 View Post
If your Reg/Rect is still located under the batt. box try pulling the 2 side covers off when you ride to let air flow and allow the R/R to cool.

If this helps then you need to move the R/R to the frame near the left passenger peg.

If the extra air doesn't help, you will likely need a new R/R and mount it out by the peg with a 3/4" P-clamp w/ rubber guard to protect the paint, or other method others have posted.

The R/R that I found on e-Bay had a pigtail on it w/ connector. This is great for the relocation.

-luck
Don't waste your time doing this. Either your R/R works or it doesn't... Does not matter where it is located.

Check and clean all your connections and TEST the stator and R/R.....and gave the battery load tested to make sure it's OK. ( is it an AGM battery?)

If You Are Not Sure If I Am Joking or Not....I AM !!Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/knifemaker1954/sets/
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 09:31 AM
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If you have not replaced the old battery with a new one, I would recommend getting a new maintenence free battery. The VN750 demands a good voltage source.
If you can measure 14V+ with a DMM at the battery when reving the engine to 4K rpm, you likely do not have a charging issue. That said, make sure all connections from the stators three bullet connectors to the R/R, and then from the R/R to the battery are clean and making good contact.

Recommended Batteries:
Deka ETX15L
Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS, YB14L-A2, YB14L-B2
12N14-3A
GNB 14L-A2, 14L-B2
Delco MC1406
Interstate YTX14AHL-BS, YB14L-A2, YB14L-B2
GS-Ztong Yee CB14L-A2, CB14L-B2
GS-JSB GM14Z-3A, GM14Z-3B
Motocross M62H4L, M3214Y, M2214B
Napa 740-1851, 740-1828
Sears 44005, 44364, 44059
Wal-Mart ES14L-A2
Yacht CB14L-A2, CB14L-B2

I would also recommend iridium plugs (Part#: NGK DPR7EIX-9), and the ignition pickup coil modification to make starting easier. You can find info on this mod by seaching the site for "pickup coil mod".

Check Kanucks thread for a downloadable service manual:
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17667

welcome to the group

~~C8>

Last edited by ZCraggRatt; 11-04-2011 at 10:10 AM. Reason: clarity
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