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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2011, 02:37 AM
Drive less, ride more...
 
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Think of shopping for a bike this way...

"When you are still shopping, you're the boss. After you buy it, they (the seller) are the boss"

Also....

"People respect what you inspect--not what you expect"

With this above in mind, before buying the bike, inspect the following:

1) Have the stator and regulator/rectifier checked, to see if they are still performing within factory specs.

2) Have the (rear) driveshaft splines inspected, and lubed as necessary (if splines are dry, or nearly so).

3) Have the bike's battery load-tested, to make sure it's in good shape, too.
If it isn't, have them replace it with a sealed (AGM) battery.

4) Test ride the bike, if at all possible. Make sure it starts and idles well from a completely "cold" start; also, make sure it accelerates smoothy at speed. See if you can set the choke, and if the choke lever stays wherever you leave it (it should). If it can't start, idle and run smoothly from cold, you may have major carb work ahead.

5) Inspect the bike's frame beneath the battery box (it's under the bike's seat). If you see where rust has already started on the bike's frame underneath the battery area, walk away from the bike and the deal.

6) Check the tires for adequate pressure (especially b4 a test ride), and also check them for sidewall cracking and signs of dry rotting. The original tires on my '05 were Bridgestone Exedras, I believe. If the tires are more than 6 years old via the date code on the tire sidewalls, have them replaced.

If they give you a hard time about any of the above, simply remind them that the bike isn't being sold with a warranty. Thus, you are just doing buyer "due diligence". If they still give you strange looks or bad body language or other, simply take your business elsewhere. There are plenty of VN750s out there; if you are serious about one, finding another isn't really hard.

If in good shape and proper tune, this bike is extemely smooth from idle all the way to redline. I have over 20k on my '05--and I wouldn't have kept it for 5 years if it wasn't a smooth, fun ride....

Good luck with your bike search....let us know how it goes....(i.e., the bike, and the search......).....!

'05 VN750



For other bike pix & mods, go to:
http://s1203.photobucket.com/albums/...k/VN750%20pix/
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2011, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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The splines ,that everyone is talking about,you mean the ones from trans. to the rear-end or the very rear itself.? I thought on shaft drive ,the very rears got splash lubed with the gear oil.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2011, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 4getful2 View Post
The splines ,that everyone is talking about,you mean the ones from trans. to the rear-end or the very rear itself.? I thought on shaft drive ,the very rears got splash lubed with the gear oil.
The ones on the input (pinion) shaft on the final drive, where the driveshaft coupling goes on. Between 2000 and 2002, the factory shipped quite a few without the splines greased properly, or not greased at all. Poor maintenance by owners of other years gave 'em all a bad rep. Being a '05 with low miles, it's prolly not an issue, but I'd have 'em checked, anyway.

The parts that get "splashed" by gear oil in the "very rear" are the ring and pinion gears themselves, inside the final drive housing, or rear end.

Jim

J.D.
Kerrville, TX
'95 Vulcan 750 "Therapy II",
aka "Raggedy Ann"
'95 VN750 project
'03 VN800B "The Little Black"
'04 VN800E Drifter project
'93 VN1500A custom project
VROC #16185
GCVROC #33

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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2011, 11:04 AM
Drive less, ride more...
 
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You can do an "abbreviated" check of the bike's stator and regulator/rectifier by simply taking the bike's seat off with the bike on its centerstand (not the sidestand!)--and putting a voltmeter/multimeter on the battery terminals, while running the bike at progressively higher rpm's.

Note the voltmeter readings at 1,500 rpm, 2,000, 3,000, 4,000 and 5,000 rpm.

The trend should (generally) be up. On a bike that new, at 1,500 rpm, you should see a reading of 12.5 (or better) volts.

The higher rpm's should yield higher voltages (but not to exceed a voltmeter/multimeter reading of 15 volts--max).

If you get an up trend for voltages in this rpm range, you can then safely assume the bike's charging system is functioning ok.

Hope this helps....

'05 VN750



For other bike pix & mods, go to:
http://s1203.photobucket.com/albums/...k/VN750%20pix/
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2011, 11:34 AM
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Did you read the thread next to this one titled "decisions"???

If you are buying from a dealer , is he going to give you any kind of warranty??

If You Are Not Sure If I Am Joking or Not....I AM !!Photos:
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2011, 01:40 PM
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..... or, you could just buy a Vulcan from a VN750.com member who has already done all the work..... like mine...
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2011, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
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..... or, you could just buy a Vulcan from a VN750.com member who has already done all the work..... like mine...
....except he already sold the pipes

No more Vulcan
New ride 2012 Victory hammer 8 ball
Stage 1 with Cobra 2 into 1 exhaust.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4getful2 View Post
My local dealer has an '05 with low miles . I just saw it on their website today,and have not gone up to look at it yet,but from the pictures it is a very nice looking bike.
My questions are: With the v-twin is the vibration very bad? i used to have a 800 intruder and it would shake going down the highway,about bad enough that in about 20 minutes of riding your hands would get numb.
Any known quirks about these bikes? Cold natured? Fuel economy?

With my size 5' 5" 155 ,there isn't too many bikes that i feel i would be comfortable on and the newer cruisers are just too heavy.

i like the looks and alum.wheels,shaft drive a plus, round mirrors are strange, can they be changed?
Any comments,help Thanks
I don't think this was addressed, yes - they can and should be changed. They're referred to as "mickey mouse ears" round these parts and aptly so. Don't go too cheap on mirrors; the plastic ones don't last, come unscrewed at high speeds, and may break during installation. Go with something middle grade at least.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-12-2011, 09:17 PM
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lesterlw

i bought a 2000 vn 750 about 40 days ago ,it only had 2000 miles on it and had been stored in a garage for years after owner was deceased.this is an awesome machine and I have already put 3000 miles on and average 55 mpg solo and as much as 58 on a trip.It has been 20 years since I have ridden and now I am completely into it again.this machine has it all and will run right along with an HD ultraclassic ,you know a 20K machine.Only problem is getting accessories and I am solving that now by putting cheap 11X11 throwover bags from Rural King $50 and will find a carrier and trunk soon or just big sissy bar bag.If you want a yard ornament buy a HD if you want to ride buu this with its short wheel base you can turn around on any 2 lane road without putting the feet down.It is pretty smooth for v twin but not as smooth as say an older 4 cylinder Honda or any metric.My pipes are stock so it sounds beutiful not like a lot of noise like so many do.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4getful2 View Post
The splines ,that everyone is talking about,you mean the ones from trans. to the rear-end or the very rear itself.? I thought on shaft drive ,the very rears got splash lubed with the gear oil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.D. View Post
The ones on the input (pinion) shaft on the final drive, where the driveshaft coupling goes on. Between 2000 and 2002, the factory shipped quite a few without the splines greased properly, or not greased at all. Poor maintenance by owners of other years gave 'em all a bad rep. Being a '05 with low miles, it's prolly not an issue, but I'd have 'em checked, anyway.

The parts that get "splashed" by gear oil in the "very rear" are the ring and pinion gears themselves, inside the final drive housing, or rear end.

Jim
Here is a link to fergy`s spline lube so you can see exactly what needs to be lubed.
Note wib`s addition starting with discussion at post #34, and pictures at Post #44 for cleaning and lubing the rear wheel hub to final drive connection as well:
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17274

Link to Vulcan Verses:
https://www.vn750.com/forum/verses.php

Look through the topics and see what interests you before going to buy the bike.
Good luck in the hunt for a nice healthy Vulcan.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 08-13-2011 at 03:40 AM.
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