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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2011, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Plug wires...

So...whats up with them? One of the front plug wires has come out of the boot, and it looks like its been cut, and just shoved onto the little screw inside, but it doesnt seem to be firing. I guess if I were to change the wires Id have to buy the coil as well as they're both one part? I went to the dealer, and thats what the dude said, anyway, where as a different shop said they could get me some wires for it, but in my experience what they say they can get never ends up being what I need. I think what Im going to try and do is just strip the wire, and wrap it around the screw. Think that'll help?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2011, 06:00 PM
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Your dealer is an idiot, never take your bike there to get fixed....or buy parts.

Many here have replaced their spark plug wires .....perhaps someone that has will chime in soon and tell you what you need and where to get it. (Napa auto parts rings a bell on this )

Do not just wrap the wire around the thing, get the right parts. Plug wires need to have proper insulation.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2011, 06:48 PM
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Pretty much any 7MM plug wire will work. They work without any modifications to the wires. You can cut them to any length you want to route them any way you want to.
There is a rubber clamp inside of the coil that slides over the wire and holds it in place under the cap. The wires screw into the plug boots.
I used a set of Accel 8MM wires on mine, but it took a little modifying to get them to work on the coils.
I started by putting the wires in the plug boots so I could get the angle on them I wanted, them put them into the coils.
Most any auto parts stores sells bulk wire or buy a set for a 4 cylinder car and cut the ends off.
Just try not to buy cheap wires as they won't last very long.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2011, 09:42 PM
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Our plug ends have a resistor in them, that is why they are built the way they are. That is probally why they are not working. you can get aftermarket on ebay, or just throw some accel coils on like I did.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-14-2011, 09:47 PM
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this is my coil set up

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 06:16 PM
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Here are the NKG boots, you need two of each, and the dennis kirk part#'s
7mm wire works fine without modifying anything. Wires are easily replaced without a new coil. Basically the boot just 'screws' on to the end of the wire.

NGK XD05F Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20306)

NGK LDO5FP Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20789)
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dariv View Post
Here are the NKG boots, you need two of each, and the dennis kirk part#'s
7mm wire works fine without modifying anything. Wires are easily replaced without a new coil. Basically the boot just 'screws' on to the end of the wire.

NGK XD05F Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20306)

NGK LDO5FP Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20789)
If you don`t need new wires just follow dariv`s directions for new caps.

If you need new wires the link to the Vulcan Verses has the wire lengths you need, etc.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1162

Quote from link:
Quote:
Spark Plug Wires and Ends For the VN700/750:

You should consider buying NGK plug ends if you haven't already. They are great looking and my directions are based on using them.
Dennis Kirk: or 1-800-328-9280

2 Part# 20306 - XD05F Spark Plug Cap $3.30 a piece.
2 Part# 20789 - NGK Spark Plug Cap/LD05FP $4.80 a piece.

Grab yourself a roll of 8 mm non-resistor type wire from your local auto parts store or speed shop. They may have to special order it. Even a 50 foot roll costs less than the Kawasaki replacement option. I chose bright yellow... Looks good on my black and red bike IMHO.

Here are the wire lengths you will need:

2 x 11.5" long 1 x 14.5" long
1 x 20.0" long

Measure your old wires to make sure it'll work. If you can get 60", you should have some to spare.


I cut my wire with a sharp scissors and stripped off the yellow insulation so that the wire slipped into the coil easily. If you can get it to slip into the coil with the yellow intact, that's even better. Take the rubber "O" looking thing along with it's plastic cap (if intact) and use them on this new wire. I had to squeeze the wire into these "O" shaped holders on the coil end with a very small screwdriver. I pushed the "O" onto the wire as far as I could (about 1/10 of an inch) and then "stuffed" the yellow insulation under the "O" thing. This "O" thing holds the wire in place along with the cap that screws onto the coil. Obviously, put the wire all the way into the coil with about 1/8th inch of room between the "O" thing and the edge of the coil. Then use the screw cap to tighten the wire down and into the coil. The plug ends "screw" onto the wire if you buy the NGK I told you about. Just make sure you have the proper parts at hand and already slid up the wire before you do this or you will have to unscrew the ends and start over. The "short" ends have a tighter rubber seal that is a pain in the tuckus. Be prepared to work that baby on by hand for a bit. Some people use dielectric grease to make it slide better... Joe in Northern, NJ - V#8013-R

"Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind. An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur."
My manual says 12 ft-lbs for the plugs, in case anyone else needs to know. That's 144 inch/lbs for those that have an inch/lb torque wrench.
FWIW, I happened to have the owner's manual out it shows the torque to be 10 ft-lbs for the plugs.

OK, I checked and you are right. My Kawasaki Factory Service Manual says 12, my owner's manual says 10, and my Clymer manual says 8.5. What's a Vulcanero to do?

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Last edited by OlHossCanada; 05-15-2011 at 06:53 PM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 09:20 AM
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 07:23 PM
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I guess I should have clarified in my first post. I used the stock parts from the original plug wires. All I did was replace the wires with the Accel 8MM wires, and I re-used the plug caps and coil caps.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 10:02 AM
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Plug Caps

What if your plug caps are bad too? where do you go to replace those? eBay's got nothing so far... I have a 92 750... do I have to go to the dealer?
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