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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
Mississippi Rider
 
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Handlebar question



I got a drag bar for my bike and I love the way it looks. However as many ofyou know you have to put at least 2 inch risers in order to clear the tanks. Risers seem expensive for what they are. This is my question:

Why cant I just flip my top clamp over, put 2 inches of spacers under it, and clamp a new top clamp over and bolt all the way thru?

Top clamp- bars -flipped over original clamp- bolted through to bottom clamp?

I could even cut the centers out of the top clamps and it would look like the ring style risers.

what you think? my concern is that the top clamps are strong enough to be bare the twisting without the stronger bottom section.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt79 View Post


I got a drag bar for my bike and I love the way it looks. However as many ofyou know you have to put at least 2 inch risers in order to clear the tanks. Risers seem expensive for what they are. This is my question:

Why cant I just flip my top clamp over, put 2 inches of spacers under it, and clamp a new top clamp over and bolt all the way thru?

Top clamp- bars -flipped over original clamp- bolted through to bottom clamp?

I could even cut the centers out of the top clamps and it would look like the ring style risers.

what you think? my concern is that the top clamps are strong enough to be bare the twisting without the stronger bottom section.
I don't know about your way but risers can be made very easily out of aluminum bar stock. You would need a piece 4" long, usually sold by the foot for $10-12.00. We use 1" x 2 1/2" 6061 aluminum stock. Cut a 7/8 " hole in the middle of a 4 " piece. Now cut that piece in half thru the hole. You now have two 2 " risers with the grove for your bars. Drill holes to match your clamps thru the risers, get longer stainless steel bolts and you're done. Of course you assume all the risks involved in altering the stock bars.

JM2001

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