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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Little advise please

Ok,

So I have read through much of the forum including much of the verses as well as the 10 things for new 750 riders, or is it 10 things for new riders, or the 15 things for old riders coming back or whatever it is called.

Anyway, here is where I am at and I would like some suggestions.

'91 VN750 21.5K miles

First off - Defenite will do list

1. Once over with torque wrench on all nuts
2. Oil Change & Filter
3. Radiator Fluid change
4. SPLINE LUBE (I finally figured out what this is!!!)
5. Battery (Unfortunately I just put in a brand new battery before I heard about these maintenance free ones, guess that's for next spring)
6. New Plugs and Air Filter
7. Drain Gas and check Tank for Rust. (Replace gas filter)
8. Brake fluid change (is this really necessary)


Secondly (This is where I would like some suggestions / comments)

Bike backfires a bit, also seems to take a second or two to come down to normal idle speeds after throttling up. PO thinks the carbs need to be cleaned. I didn't notice any issues with throttle cable, but I will admit I don't entirely know what to look for.

So, having said that, I read somewhere on here, easy first, hard second.
Initially I was just planning on pulling and cleaning carbs, now I have ammended this to:

1. SeaFoam treatment (trying to find some more details about exactly how to do this) or GUMOUT in carbs. (preference?)
2. Synch Carbs before trying to clean to see if that helps
3. If all else fails pull carbs and clean.


Finally, question about the tires

Front tire needs to be replaced, too much dry rot for my taste.
Rear tire looks good.
Should I change both? I would rather not since I am working on a limited budget.
Furthermore, I read somewhere about changing tire size, is this a good idea, and can I start this process by only changing the front tire first and the rear at a later date, or do these need to be changed together.



Thanks guys

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 09:25 AM
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First... Seafoam in the tank.. sounds like the carbs need a good cleaning..run about half a cup in the tank with a full tnak of gas.. and everytime you fill up there after put a cap full or 2 in it.. wont hurt anything at all.
2nd.. lube the cables.. cupple of good write ups on how to do this.. baggie trick works great.
3rd.. SPLINE LUDE for sure. and since you need to replace tires it would be a great time to do this... and yes don't wait on those tires.. they are the only thing holding you up on the bike!....also take the tires off yourself and have the rubber mounted at a shop.. it will save you some bucks....this is a good place to order tires from
http://www.jakewilson.com/cart.do
tire size is up to you really.. most will argue with me on this one...LOL
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 09:37 AM
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Welcome...
As for the new MF battery next spring, I would run it till there was a suspect problem, should last +/-3 yrs...
Good call on trying the SeaFoam first, a few ounces (+/- 1/3 can) in the tank for a few tanks may be all that is needed... Might also consider marbling the carbs., that might help a bit with the backfire...
Surely replace the dry rotting front tire, I prefered the 110/90/19 over the 100/90/19...
Plus it will almost correct up the speedometer...
I see no need to change both at the same time, unless both need changing, I only get 8-9k out of my rear tire, but usually get 12-14k out of the front...
But listen to other folks on here they usually know more than me as I really didn't have that many problems with mine...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

Southern Central Tennessee.......
Now on the Dark Side......
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09-xl1200 "C" Vivid Black, Cast wheels w/19" Frt., SE-Stage 1+, X14iEDs...
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 10:14 AM
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Check the date code on the rear tire. Over time, the composition of the rubber degrades. If the tire is 5 yrs. or over, take it easy while riding until you can afford to replace it. Tires are critical to safety on a bike. When you replace them, I would recommend the oversized Rear 170/80/R15, and the oversized front 110/90/R19. Have a good one, and always consider safety the best investment for your money.

~~C8> Ratt
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 10:47 AM
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^ What C8ratt said, here is how to tell...
http://blog.unsafemotorcycles.com/20...e-matters.html
Have a good one...Old Dog...

Southern Central Tennessee.......
Now on the Dark Side......
Girl's Bike 09 Sporty xl 1200 Custom...33k + & clickin......
Sportster Owner/Rider since age 72...lol... Rider since Simplex...???
09-xl1200 "C" Vivid Black, Cast wheels w/19" Frt., SE-Stage 1+, X14iEDs...
MicroTach +, Higher wider H-bars, GPS Mt., Mustach bar Hwy. pegs...
Viking Shock cutout Saddlebags, Rear Mt. Signal Lt. Kit, Fork Brace...
RoadKing Air Shocks, Mustang Seat, Progressive Fork Springs...
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 10:50 AM
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Don't forget electrical.. Clean as many connections as you can..
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 11:14 AM
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Plastic safe electrical contact spray works well for those hard to reach places. Available at most auto parts stores and Radio Shack. Once clean, apply a little dielectric grease and reconnect.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 11:24 AM
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Brake fluid should be changed every two years. It absorbs moisture over time. Water does not compress like brake fluid does and this can lead to mushy braking.

Hey, it's cheap life insurance if you ask me. Bleeding the brakes is easy and the cost of fluid is probably less than $8 a bottle. I believe you want to use DOT4 fluid, double check what the top of the brake reservoir says. NEVER mix DOT types of brake fluid, only the type listed for your bike.

When bleeding the brakes be careful not to let any air get into the system. Air doesn't compress the same way brake fluid does and any air bubble in the lines will also lead to mushy brakes.

-Sloppy

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Check.

Clean electrical connections and change brake fluid.

I thought about things and decided to go with replacing both tires with oversized ones.

I got Front Bridgestone Splitfire 110/90-19 and rear Shinko 230 Tour Master170/80-15 plus a 90 degree valve stem from jakewilson.com for only $135 and free shipping. (I tried to get a matching set of Shinko 230 but they were out of stock on the front tire and don't expect more till October, so I hope this mix and match is not a bad thing)

It has been recommended that I remove the tires myself and bring them to the shop for mounting and balancing only. Two questions regarding this.

1) Based on what I read in Fergy's spline Lube tutorial about removing the rear tire; is it enough to get the tire changed, or do I need to go an extra step and remove something else from the rear wheel (rear brake?)

2) I did not notice a posting on Front Tire removal, but I am sure it is here somewhere and in my service manuals, but I am curious how I would get both wheels off at the same time. I feel like a floor jack under the center of the bike probably won't provide enough stability to remove the fromt wheel after the rear is already off. And shouls I remove the rear while on the center stand then jack the bike up, or jack the bike off the ground first before removing either tire. I feel like I am missing a key point here.

Its funny, I used to think I knew so much about this stuff, but after looking around here for a while I realize I am a novice at best.

Thanks again guys, If it weren't for all of you I would be spending way more than I wanted to to get my bike road ready, and probably not even be able to afford to get it going this year at all.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 11:54 AM
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a floor jack and the centerstand should do ya.
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