r/r relocation and coastering tonight - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
Wareagle1970
 
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r/r relocation and coastering tonight

Anyone gonna be around in case I freak out and have a question

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 05:07 PM
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No way...it's friday dude. Going out clubbin'. lol Just kidding. I'm sure someone might be around to assist but they are pretty easy mods. We have faith in ya.

01' VN750
Jardine cross over exaust
Kyriakin grips and foot pegs
Modified seat and backrest
Windshield
Luggage rack
Crash bar with Kyriakin pegs and extensions
Kumho 758 165/80-15 CT rear Dunlop 404 110/90-19 front
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
Spline lube

93' VN750 getting TLC
Decals and mirrors
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
ACCTs to MCCTs
Degoated with Harley mufflers
Duro 110-90-19 front 150-90-15 rear
Pick-up coils at .020
Spline lube
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
Wareagle1970
 
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The part I'm concerned about is the example I saw on the r/r relocation, you have to center punch the mounting bolts for the regulator on the bottom of the battery box... Is this correct, and also do the mounting bolts bolt directly into the r/r, or do they go through a mounting hole, requiring a locking bolt and washer as well?

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 08:45 PM
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The mounting bolts go through holes in the r/r and screw into nuts welded to the battery box IIRC. Probably have lock washers on them. Wouldn't hurt to use penetrating oil on the bolts, but if you shear them off, it's no problem. You aren't going to put it back there anyway. Not sure why you would need to center punch the bolts. I didn't.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 01:01 AM
'03 VN750 "Rosie"
 
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I didn't have a problem with the bolts on the R/R. Not much room to work but the bolts didn't fight me.

'03 VN750 "Rosie"
Purchased in June 15, 2010
Windshield
Lubed Splines
Lubed and Adjusted Clutch Cable, Throttle Cables.
Relocated Voltage Regulator
Brakes Bled
Luggage Rack
Lazy Rider Bag
Leather Saddle Bags
Legitimate Title!! (finally!) Aug 30, 2010
New AGM Interstate Battery Sept 15, 2012

2008 Hyosung GV250 (sold!)
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 09:11 AM
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Darn, CRS I can't remember but I didn't do any center punching, just bought a U bolt, made the little plate, it was so simple a dummy like me could do it, I know cause I did it...lol...
I can see though, if no other way on getting the bolts out, you could center punch and drill them out, as FC said you aren't going to reuse them...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

Southern Central Tennessee.......
Now on the Dark Side......
Girl's Bike 09 Sporty xl 1200 Custom...33k + & clickin......
Sportster Owner/Rider since age 72...lol... Rider since Simplex...???
09-xl1200 "C" Vivid Black, Cast wheels w/19" Frt., SE-Stage 1+, X14iEDs...
MicroTach +, Higher wider H-bars, GPS Mt., Mustach bar Hwy. pegs...
Viking Shock cutout Saddlebags, Rear Mt. Signal Lt. Kit, Fork Brace...
RoadKing Air Shocks, Mustang Seat, Progressive Fork Springs...

Last edited by Old Dog; 11-20-2010 at 10:23 AM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 04:18 PM
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I used Fergy's guide. http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/writeu..._relocate.html Like some others here, I simply unbolted the battery box at the top to allow it to wiggle around some, then I unscrewed the R/R bolts from the bottom with a small ratchet. The wiring harness on mine was just barely long enough to reach, to the point that I had to angle the R/R a certain way for it to work.

The whole thing took maybe an hour, including drilling a hole in my strap metal (the default holes lined up with the R/R's holes and one of the U-bolt holes) and cutting off the extra length with a hacksaw. It's one of the easiest automotive mods I've ever done.

http://www.vroc.org/view_profile.php...b=2#photoalbum


1985 VN700 A1 (Sold) | 2009 Ninja 500R EX500D9F
VROC #32761
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