Winter Storage Question... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2010, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Winter Storage Question...

Had a great ride yesterday with temperatures uncommonly high for this time of year (69 degrees). Rode up to Xenia, OH to see my brother in law whose son is due to return for awhile from Afghanistan (Army-Fort Campbell). Anyway, had a great ride through some back roads, covered bridges, John Bryan State Park and Young's Jersey dairy. Anyway, I got home and cleaned the bike all up, changed the oil, filled the tank, and added some stabil. Well I just read this Winter Storage info in the Vulcan Verses,

"26.10.3. Change the oil & filter, check air filter, brake fluid. Run some Stabil or Seafoam in the gas till you can smell it a bit in the exhaust. This will help to reduce "varnish" in the carb and fuel lines. Fill tank to top.
Start engine and turn off gas and let the carb run out to empty. This will lessen chance of varnish in the bowl."

Not sure how to turn the gas off on my 86 VN750? It can't be "ON" or "RES" so is it the "PRI" setting? I've used that when the bike sits for awhile to prime the gas in order to make it easier to start. Help! Thanks!


1986 VN 750
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Replaced Stock Turn signals
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 01:15 AM
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"Run some Stabil or Seafoam in the gas till you can smell it a bit in the exhaust. This will help to reduce "varnish" in the carb and fuel lines. Fill tank to top.
Start engine and turn off gas and let the carb run out to empty. This will lessen chance of varnish in the bowl
."

I disagree with the above post. The small amount of fuel stabilizer in the residual fuel left in the carb after you try to run it to empty, isn't going to prevent varnish. Both will evaporate, leaving varnish in the carb. You are better off to just park it with the carb full. I had a bike with Sea Foam in it that sat for a year and cranked just fine. The gas was good and the carb wasn't gummed up.

To answer your question, there is no way to turn your petcock off. You would have to disconnect the fuel line below the petcock and capture the fuel until the carb ran empty.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! That's what I was trying to figure out. I always run seafoam in the tank and add stabil as well over the winter months. Just paranoid. It's full and that's how she'll sit until better weather!


1986 VN 750
20,000 miles
MF Battery
Replaced Stock Turn signals
Starter Clutch
NGK plugs
MT66 Pirelli's
Seafoam
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
"Run some Stabil or Seafoam in the gas till you can smell it a bit in the exhaust. This will help to reduce "varnish" in the carb and fuel lines. Fill tank to top.
Start engine and turn off gas and let the carb run out to empty. This will lessen chance of varnish in the bowl
."

I disagree with the above post. The small amount of fuel stabilizer in the residual fuel left in the carb after you try to run it to empty, isn't going to prevent varnish. Both will evaporate, leaving varnish in the carb. You are better off to just park it with the carb full. I had a bike with Sea Foam in it that sat for a year and cranked just fine. The gas was good and the carb wasn't gummed up.

To answer your question, there is no way to turn your petcock off. You would have to disconnect the fuel line below the petcock and capture the fuel until the carb ran empty.
YEA---Finally someone that I agree with... I think it is best to leave the carbs full, as well as the gas tank... I remember years ago when I fished a lot and would just kill the outboard engine and store, someone said I was doing wrong and that I should run the carbs dry, so I did and the next spring it took 2 acts of congress to get it started, and about another month to get it running right...
Had no problems before or after by leaving the carbs full...
Other than that I aslo think that if you can, a start and run a bit every 2-3 weeks will also do wonders for the storage part...
Just make sure your battery stays up to par, as a discharged battery will freeze...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 10:37 AM
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Not that I'm biased in any way, but I would only use seafoam for the procedure. I've had bad experiences in the past with stabil, and it is mostly from the high humidity we have during the winter here as it typically doesn't get that cold for any length of time, but does go through large swings in temperature and humidity which, IMO causes issues with fuel systems on machinery stored in garages, sheds and such. I had the "act of congress" procedure on any lawnmower, weed eater, chain saw and such trying to get them started in the spring every year using stabil until I finally heard of seafoam and tried it the first winter. I've never had a problem since 2002 getting any of those machines running in the spring...

And I also vote for leaving the tank full and not draining the carbs. I ride throughout the winter, so I don't know about just starting and running it periodically, but I would think it would be better to actually ride it for 30 minutes here and there as apposed to just starting it and warming it up, but I understand that might be impossible.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 11:50 AM
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X3 flite.

Another thing about leaving carbs empty, some things can dry out. crack, and go bad if left empty for long periods of time. I have never emptied my carbs on my bikes, snowmobiles, or any other gas engine for that matter and have no problems with start up in the spring. I drain the gas mixed with K100 or seafoam that was in it over the winter and put in fresh. The gas I drain out just goes in my truck so its doesn't go to waste. Plus my truck always needs gas anyways. lol

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy View Post
I ride throughout the winter, so I don't know about just starting and running it periodically, but I would think it would be better to actually ride it for 30 minutes here and there as apposed to just starting it and warming it up, but I understand that might be impossible.
Oh I agree, absolutly ride if you can, 30 minutes would be very good, and more is better...lol...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dog View Post
Other than that I aslo think that if you can, a start and run a bit every 2-3 weeks will also do wonders for the storage part...
I've read (no personal experience) that just starting it up for a few minutes can actually be worse. It puts more acids into the oil from running it, but you're not actually getting it up to temp where it can burn off the condensation and stuff. It's essentially the worst part of running an engine, without any of the good parts.


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dog View Post
Oh I agree, absolutly ride if you can, 30 minutes would be very good, and more is better...lol...
Have a good one...Old Dog...
Quote:
Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
I've read (no personal experience) that just starting it up for a few minutes can actually be worse. It puts more acids into the oil from running it, but you're not actually getting it up to temp where it can burn off the condensation and stuff. It's essentially the worst part of running an engine, without any of the good parts.
X3 Starting and riding until the engine is hot enough for long enough to evaporate any condensation in the oil would be the best option. Just starting the engine and letting it idle will not warm the oil up enough to drive off the water in the oil, especially in cold weather. The water will combine with other combustion byproducts to form sulfuric acid (and maybe other acids too) in the oil, which attacks anything it comes in contact with.

Starting the bike every few weeks will keep fresh *seafoamed* gas in the carb bowls and may prevent gum or varnish from forming, but for the reasons mentioned above, it is not my first choice for winter storage. For maximum protection I would put in fresh oil and a new filter, a full tank of gas treated with 4-6 oz of Seafoam, ride it for 20-30 minutes to get everything warmed up and well circulated, then park it and leave it sit until ready to ride again.

Make sure the battery is charged up and keep it in a cool but not extremely cold place, or keep it on a tender.

Gordon

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Purchased May 16, 2008
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
I've read (no personal experience) that just starting it up for a few minutes can actually be worse. It puts more acids into the oil from running it, but you're not actually getting it up to temp where it can burn off the condensation and stuff. It's essentially the worst part of running an engine, without any of the good parts.
I think that is true, also water vapors can form etc. too, so I think you should at least run long enough to get up to temp. ...
I mean, you would need to run a bit anyway to offset the battery discharge from starting, and also put a bit extra back in...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

Southern Central Tennessee.......
Now on the Dark Side......
Girl's Bike 09 Sporty xl 1200 Custom...33k + & clickin......
Sportster Owner/Rider since age 72...lol... Rider since Simplex...???
09-xl1200 "C" Vivid Black, Cast wheels w/19" Frt., SE-Stage 1+, X14iEDs...
MicroTach +, Higher wider H-bars, GPS Mt., Mustach bar Hwy. pegs...
Viking Shock cutout Saddlebags, Rear Mt. Signal Lt. Kit, Fork Brace...
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