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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Beyond the Grambo Trick?

I did the Grambo trick the other day. It seems to have cleared up most of the ticking I was hearing, but not all. I turned the inner screw clockwise and let it snap back numerous times. I also applied torque counterclockwise with my fingers using a small screwdriver numerous times, but was careful to not over do it. The ACCT's seemed nice and free and spun back easily. The ticking is gone from the front cylinder, but not the back. It seems worse when the engine is hot. I did the adjustment on a cold engine.

I was thinking of getting a short piece of 1/8 - 3/16 alum. or brass rod, inserting it into the hole where the ACCT goes, and giving it a few light taps with a pair of pliers or light hammer. Whatever fits in the area. The purpose would be to free up whatever the ACCT pushes on a little more aggressively. But, not knowing exactly what is in there, I thought I'd ask first. I'm just looking to do everything I can before I have to go to MCCT's. Ain't got the $$$ for those yet...

Is there something I can do beyond what I've done to improve this issue?

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Last edited by Flap1; 07-23-2010 at 07:58 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 08:25 PM
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Get a set of TOC MCCT's (Manual Cam Chain Tensioners). they can be found HERE. Also search the forum for making your own MCCT's... I don't recommend going that rout but several people have reported that making their own out of local hardware parts was pretty simple and achieved good results.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2010, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Flap1 View Post
I was thinking of getting a short piece of 1/8 - 3/16 alum. or brass rod, inserting it into the hole where the ACCT goes, and giving it a few light taps with a pair of pliers or light hammer. Whatever fits in the area. The purpose would be to free up whatever the ACCT pushes on a little more aggressively. But, not knowing exactly what is in there, I thought I'd ask first. I'm just looking to do everything I can before I have to go to MCCT's. Ain't got the $$$ for those yet...
Is there something I can do beyond what I've done to improve this issue?

If it wasn't for time, everything would happen at once!!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2010, 07:23 PM
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Have you installed new springs at all on the bike, or are they the original when you bought the bike. The springs do go bad sometimes in a very short time. Is this an older bike, if it is the MCCT's maybe the only why to go to get rid of the noise. You do not want to try and tap the mechanism, or levers inside of the engine to try and rid yourself of the noise.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2010, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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When I spun the ACCTs they spun back nice and crisply on both sides. The springs didn't seem fatigued. When I applied the counterclockwise torque to them, I was fairly cautious with how much I applied because I do not know how much you can get away with.
If MCCTs are my only next hope, that may have to wait a while due to $$$. And, if I do get MCCTs, is that almost a guarantee of quieting the noise?
BTW, it's a 2004 with 5500 miles.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
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When I spun the ACCTs they spun back nice and crisply on both sides. The springs didn't seem fatigued. When I applied the counterclockwise torque to them, I was fairly cautious with how much I applied because I do not know how much you can get away with.
If MCCTs are my only next hope, that may have to wait a while due to $$$. And, if I do get MCCTs, is that almost a guarantee of quieting the noise?
BTW, it's a 2004 with 5500 miles.
I can't imagine you are having an issue with the ACCT's with only 5500 miles. Did you buy the bike new or used? I have seen some people unplug the speedo to keep the mileage down. My 01' has 15k and no cam chain noise.

What kind of oil do you use? Are you sure it is the cam chain that is ticking and not maybe the lifters or something else? Sometimes a lower grade oil can make an engine a bit noisier.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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I can't imagine you are having an issue with the ACCT's with only 5500 miles. Did you buy the bike new or used? I have seen some people unplug the speedo to keep the mileage down. My 01' has 15k and no cam chain noise.

What kind of oil do you use? Are you sure it is the cam chain that is ticking and not maybe the lifters or something else? Sometimes a lower grade oil can make an engine a bit noisier.
I bought it used with around 5200 miles on it about 2 months ago. The oil had just been changed before I bought it. Don't know what kind was used. I do not know if it's history includes a period of sitting unused. It came from NH, so who knows. I am the third owner. I am assuming the cam chain is the noise since it is such a common issue with these bikes, and the fact that making the adjustment made a noticeable difference lessening the ticking. Could changing to a full synthetic oil make a real difference in this as well as improving other things? If so, is any good synthetic useable?

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 11:11 AM
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changing to a full synthetic oil will help some. but changing to the MCCT's will fix the problem guaranteed if it is a Cam Chain Noise.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
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changing to a full synthetic oil will help some. but changing to the MCCT's will fix the problem guaranteed if it is a Cam Chain Noise.
X2 it is possable the ACCT's are acting up and changing out to MCCT's will be better and narrow down the noise.

This is how you can make the MCCT's pretty cheap.

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4912

If the bike sets even with new oil in it it still loses viscosity over time. It is smart to change the oil and any other fluid when buying a used bike no matter if they say it is fresh. Very easy and inexpensive to ensure good lubrication. Then you know what is in it.

01' VN750
Jardine cross over exaust
Kyriakin grips and foot pegs
Modified seat and backrest
Windshield
Luggage rack
Crash bar with Kyriakin pegs and extensions
Kumho 758 165/80-15 CT rear Dunlop 404 110/90-19 front
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
Spline lube

93' VN750 getting TLC
Decals and mirrors
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
ACCTs to MCCTs
Degoated with Harley mufflers
Duro 110-90-19 front 150-90-15 rear
Pick-up coils at .020
Spline lube
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 12:27 PM
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HMHO, the main issue with the ACCT's is the spring located ABOVE the ACCT under the chrome bolt. This spring is the spring that applies pressure to the cam chain guide to keep it firmly in place.

see part #92081


The ACCT's job is to keep the guide from backing out when the chain wears and stretches. Think about it people, do you really think that tiny weak spring in the ACCT can provide enough tension to manage the cam chain? the work is done by the spring under the chrome bolt cover! When that weakens, the ACCT can't do it's job.

Here's your solution: Remove the chrome bolt cover, retrieve the spring, stretch the spring out about 3/8" longer to give it more tension OR go buy a new spring. The top of the motor gets hot and if the spring weakens, the ACCT can't do it's job by acting as a stiff rod, not as a tightener.

I lubed my ACCT with grease - that helped a lot - thinking like most people on this site that the ACCT is weak but came to realize there is so much pressure keeping that chain in place that there is no way the ACCT is the only problem with the design.

I stretched my top spring months ago when slight ticking started and it's been sweetly quiet since.

If you do this, please report back the results you achieved.

DT

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