There are some things you can do to postpone or intercept a stator failure with less pain....as mentioned above, be religious with oil changes. A clean(er) stator is a happier stator.
Periodically, it's also a great idea to inspect the bike's electrical connections, then clean them as appropriate. Use a good electrical spray cleaner to clean electrical component contact surfaces--but be sure to use a spray cleaner that's designed not
to attack plastics. You can also try using vinegar to clean these contacts, as well. Then repack (or coat) each connection before reassembly with dielectric grease. This grease will not affect the electrical conductivity at the contacts, and of course will protect the contacts from moisture and later corroding.
Basically, a cleaner electrical system without rust/corrosion at the various connections runs with less resistance and thus generates less heat for the stator. Be especially sure
your battery terminals and all frame ground connections are clean (great metal-to-metal contact) and really tight, and greased as described. This is an often overlooked part of motorcycle maintenance. But it will head off many electrical gremlins b4 they have a chance to haunt you.
You should really install a voltmeter near your other bike's instruments to monitor the health of the bike's charging system. When/if a stator fails, this voltmeter will give you some advanced warning (rather than NONE
without it). There are of course many other threads on the forum here that talk about this in much detail. Should your stator fail when you are in the middle of nowhere, however, being able to turn off the headlight (during daylight only, of course) will greatly increase the time the bike can run off of the battery only. A separate kill switch for the headlamp could be the hero of the day, if your luck really
turns on you. Just something to think about.....
The "phantom gas syndrome" is also something to watch for. But you can pretty much be ready to handle it (if/when it happens to you) by reviewing the following terrific thread on this subject:
As you may have already read elsewhere, many Vulcan 750s apparently left the factory without the necessary lube at the driveshaft splines. See Fergy's signature link for how to correct this error. If you have yet to inspect your driveshaft's splines for the proper lube, do so--and the sooner, the better. Also--be sure to relube these splines with the right "moly" lube whenever you change the back tire on your bike. I have seen on the internet where this problem has been the early death of otherwise great touring trips on the VN750. Don't let it happen to you!
This bike has a really strong tendency to rust readily, if it is not properly waxed/polished and/or stored in a garage that keeps it separated from the elements--especially in humid environments. If you can't garage your bike, then a good quality cover (like from Dowco, or equivalent) and regular wax/polishing is a "must do" to keep it looking sharp for a long time. See other threads here for more info on this, too.
My bike's automatic cam chain tensioners went out at just over 9,000 miles. The MCCTs from TOC I think are really the best way to solve this problem permanently. It's well documented elsewhere here how to recognize this problem, and what to do if/when it happens.
Some trim pieces on this bike have a tendency to work loose, and then fall off. The swingarm covers are especially prone to this, & the door on the back toolbox is also a contender here. The lock on the back toolbox can work loose, as well. See other threads here for more info on this problem.
This bike can also have a hard-start problem, especially when the bike is hot. The tried-and-true fix here is to install a maintenance-free (sealed) battery (which is a really good idea, anyway), and iridium-tipped spark plugs (usually the NGK brand). These changes have other nice benefits, too (like no more adding water to battery cells).
problem with this bike is the issue of seat comfort, for the factory seat. Some people of course don't have problems with this; others go thru several solutions b4 finding a cure. The button tuck upholstery pattern on the seat is stupid, and of course with the bike parked, traps water during/after a rain. Hey, Kawasaki...what were
you thinking here?...
The VN750 is really a solid bike, but like most everything else, it requires some true "TLC" in the right places/times to remain a fun and reliable riding option.
Given all the above, take good care of your "baby", and it will take good care of you. This is especially relevant, since this bike is really the last of its kind......