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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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New Paint

Went and got the Nomad painted, turned out great. Photos realy wont do it justice.

The ghost flames really don't show in pictures.


Chad Falstad "Hawk"
Vroc #17649
2011 HD Ultra Classic "angel"
2001 Nomad 1500 Sold March 2012
2001 VN 750 "Sold June with 2008 with 21,000""Serinity"
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 11:21 PM
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Nice, but I liked the silver too. Half my vn is metalic red.

DT

95 VN750 (eBay)31k+
GL1100 front fender
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 12:19 AM
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I would really like to have my '02 750 painted, in Kawasaki "Candy Plasma Blue", same as the '07 Ninja 250 blue. The tank would be solid, without the different colored sides, but after having it painted, I would take it to a pinstriper and have the pinstripes put back on the tank in the stock location, in silver, and also on the fenders. I would have silver "Vulcan" stickers made out of vinyl, in pretty much the same script as the sidecover emblems were, to replace the stock tank emblems. But, all of that would cost $600-$700, and I just spent almost $400 putting V&H pipes on it, it has 45,000 miles on it, and I'm beginning to think that spending any more money on it just for cosmetic reasons doesn't make sense. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccspinner View Post
Went and got the Nomad painted, turned out great. Photos realy wont do it justice.

The ghost flames really don't show in pictures.

Looks awesome but in the pictures it looks like the clearcoat needs to be wet sanded and polished. Is this just the photos?


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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It does have to get buffed but looks better in person, the picture is a little pixeled that was with my phone. It really is almost a mirror, I had to shrink the photo to get it here.
there is 2 coats of gold 5 coats of kandy and 5 cotes of clear. He wanted it to setup for a couple of weeks before he hits it with a buffer.
Here is a link to better picts.
http://s463.photobucket.com/albums/q..._Vulcan/Nomad/

Chad Falstad "Hawk"
Vroc #17649
2011 HD Ultra Classic "angel"
2001 Nomad 1500 Sold March 2012
2001 VN 750 "Sold June with 2008 with 21,000""Serinity"
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccspinner View Post
It does have to get buffed but looks better in person, the picture is a little pixeled that was with my phone. It really is almost a mirror, I had to shrink the photo to get it here.
there is 2 coats of gold 5 coats of kandy and 5 cotes of clear. He wanted it to setup for a couple of weeks before he hits it with a buffer.
Here is a link to better picts.
http://s463.photobucket.com/albums/q..._Vulcan/Nomad/
Are you glad he has to wet sand an buff and not you? LOL


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 02:33 AM
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Now I'm not getting it. You put it all back together before the paint is done? If I did get a new paint job on my tank and fenders, I wouldn't put them back on until the paint was completely done. I was planning on using catalyzed acrylic enamel, that is a one shot deal. It is completely finished and ready to reassemble within an hour. No buffing, or long term curing.

There is a cheaper easier way of doing a great paint job, basically you wet sand the original paint with a sanding sponge, and paint right over it, assuming it is in perfect condition. No primer, no filler, no nothing. And it comes out oem quality or better. In the case of the Vulcan 750, it would mean painting over the clearcoated pinstripes on the side of the tank, leaving a ridge, but that would not be a problem for me, as I was planning to have it repinstriped anyway. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
Now I'm not getting it. You put it all back together before the paint is done? If I did get a new paint job on my tank and fenders, I wouldn't put them back on until the paint was completely done. I was planning on using catalyzed acrylic enamel, that is a one shot deal. It is completely finished and ready to reassemble within an hour. No buffing, or long term curing.

There is a cheaper easier way of doing a great paint job, basically you wet sand the original paint with a sanding sponge, and paint right over it, assuming it is in perfect condition. No primer, no filler, no nothing. And it comes out oem quality or better. In the case of the Vulcan 750, it would mean painting over the clearcoated pinstripes on the side of the tank, leaving a ridge, but that would not be a problem for me, as I was planning to have it repinstriped anyway. Jerry.
I get it ,In order to get a candy paint job you have to start with a metallic base coat of a different color than the color you really want it to be ,plus the ghost flames and then the clear to get the effect he wanted .You just can't get that with a single step paint.While the acrylics are good looking paints they do chip more easily because of their hardness.I know by talking to you on here Jerry that you go for a more straight forward approach and are more geared toward getting it done right with the least amount of fuss,which is alright too.Every body is not interested in cheaper and easier. Chad obviously wanted a more expensive and interesting job ,not just OEM or better.As for riding it before it is completely finished,it is April and nobody wants to leave their bike down for two weeks waiting to buff out paint,A very nice Nomad too Chad ,by the way.




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
Now I'm not getting it. You put it all back together before the paint is done? If I did get a new paint job on my tank and fenders, I wouldn't put them back on until the paint was completely done. I was planning on using catalyzed acrylic enamel, that is a one shot deal. It is completely finished and ready to reassemble within an hour. No buffing, or long term curing.

There is a cheaper easier way of doing a great paint job, basically you wet sand the original paint with a sanding sponge, and paint right over it, assuming it is in perfect condition. No primer, no filler, no nothing. And it comes out oem quality or better. In the case of the Vulcan 750, it would mean painting over the clearcoated pinstripes on the side of the tank, leaving a ridge, but that would not be a problem for me, as I was planning to have it repinstriped anyway. Jerry.
Sorry Pal...... That ain't what it's like in the paint world!!!
I do paint work. Your just don't wet sand (what the hell is sponge?) and apply a top coat. Unless you want to take the chance of it lifting off after a short period of time. You can keep the original paint....I always do to give it more "base". Then apply a good primer and keep sanding and primering untill you don't see those lines any more. Yes, you will apply finishing putty in the small nicks and holes that you will see, but it's easy.
There are two basic paint jobs depending on your budget.
Single stage. Primer......top coat......buff......done. You can do your own pinstripes with pinstripe tape. It's easy but you have to clear over it.
The top of the line is "base coat--clear coat".
Same sanding and priming as before but the base coat is flat....not glossy. After sanding (wet) the base coat, the paint job just begins!!!!
Some guys will shoot 1 to 3 coats of clear. I use the whole can!!! I fiqure he's bought the stuff......why not?
I use a hardener so I can buff the next day. Wet sand that puppy with 2500 sandpaper and watch that punk come alive when you buff it!!!!!
It's a lot of work, but it's soooooo rewarding to see the finished product.
You can do this!!! Your local auto paint store can help you through this process.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honest Al View Post
Sorry Pal...... That ain't what it's like in the paint world!!!
I do paint work. Your just don't wet sand (what the hell is sponge?) and apply a top coat. Unless you want to take the chance of it lifting off after a short period of time. You can keep the original paint....I always do to give it more "base". Then apply a good primer and keep sanding and primering untill you don't see those lines any more. Yes, you will apply finishing putty in the small nicks and holes that you will see, but it's easy.
There are two basic paint jobs depending on your budget.
Single stage. Primer......top coat......buff......done. You can do your own pinstripes with pinstripe tape. It's easy but you have to clear over it.
The top of the line is "base coat--clear coat".
Same sanding and priming as before but the base coat is flat....not glossy. After sanding (wet) the base coat, the paint job just begins!!!!
Some guys will shoot 1 to 3 coats of clear. I use the whole can!!! I fiqure he's bought the stuff......why not?
I use a hardener so I can buff the next day. Wet sand that puppy with 2500 sandpaper and watch that punk come alive when you buff it!!!!!
It's a lot of work, but it's soooooo rewarding to see the finished product.
You can do this!!! Your local auto paint store can help you through this process.


I am not a painter, only repeating what a professional motorcycle painter told me. He said he could do my tank and fenders in a single color metallic color, with catalyzed acrylic enamel, that it would be oem quality, and that you would still be able top see and feel the original pinstripe lines. I wanted to use those lines as a guide for new pinstriping. And I do not want my pinstriping or vinyl emblems clearcoated over. If they are damaged, they can be replaced. If I want to remove them, or change them, I can. Once clearcoated, it's permanent.


Also, I had Maaco paint my race car this way, with cheaper paint. $500 or so for the whole job. I sanded down all the bad scratches, they sanded and painted the rest. No primer, no filler, just new paint over sanded old paint. NOT oem quality, but very durable, (has held up fine for over 3 years) and fine for a race car.


There are several well known pinstripers around here, and they will pinstripe anything. My boss got pinstriping put on his Goldwing. Pinstripers are not painters, and they don't clearcoat their work.


Oh, about the sponge. They are like a really thin scotchbrite pad, but larger, with the same surface as wet sandpaper. You can get them in the same grits. They are meant to be used wet, are very flexible, follow the curves and fit into the nooks and crannies of motorcycle parts very well. They are also used on cars. Body and paint shops around here have been using them for years. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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