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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2010, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Started the Reed/Air Box Removal 56k no go

I have ordered a set of coasters for the reed valves. Today I removed all the hoses connecting them. My questions are the following:

There was a circular device that all these hoses went to, is it safe to remove that? If so there was a tiny hose that I think went to the carb, should this be plugged or should the hose stay in place?

How do you remove the air box? Only way I see is to cut it up carefully.

Third there is a hose on the front cylinder that went to the air box, should this be plugged up or should a filter be placed there?

Thanks in advance!

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.

Last edited by theone2043; 03-05-2010 at 05:21 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2010, 08:01 PM
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Little hose to carb.. remove, and put a vacuum cap on the carb. Second hose in question put a filter on... its your crank case vent hose. thirdly... there are two ways of removing the air box.. first is to cut it up like you suggest, and the other is drop the engine.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2010, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theone2043 View Post
I have ordered a set of coasters for the reed valves. Today I removed all the hoses connecting them. My questions are the following:

There was a circular device that all these hoses went to, is it safe to remove that? If so there was a tiny hose that I think went to the carb, should this be plugged or should the hose stay in place?

How do you remove the air box? Only way I see is to cut it up carefully.

Third there is a hose on the front cylinder that went to the air box, should this be plugged up or should a filter be placed there?

Thanks in advance!
Are you also doing an ear shave and carb rejet?


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2010, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Should the crank case vent hose be directed towards the battery?

Yes, I have already removed the ears. Can someone get me an exact shopping list for the stuff needed.

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2010, 08:11 PM
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PM me your contact #, I just ordered more jets for earshaves.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 01:00 AM
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I am keeping the airbox and the ears, just like the seat, I actually like them. I did however remove the entire air injection system, including the valve that all 3 hoses connect to. I first put a vacuum cap on the carb, but it rotted right away and started leaking, so I put a short piece of vacuum hose on the fitting, put a screw in the other end, and stuck it up under the tank. For some reason the hose doesn't rot like the cap. I also had to plug a hole in the airbox, because I'm keeping it.

The crankcase vent can be anywhere, just make sure it is not obstructed. I just left the stock covers on the reed valves, and capped them off with rubber auto heater hose fitting caps from Pep Boys. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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To make sure I am referring to the correct parts I took pictures.

I am going to cap this off, correct?



This I can get a longer hose and attach a filter on the end correct?



This has one end connected to the air box but I am not sure where the other end went. Does this simply get removed?



Last but not least, There is a hose attached to a tee going into the carb, I can not for the life of me know where the hose going to the right goes.



Two other simple questions. The clear tube going to the battery box can be removed when you get a sealed battery correct? And last the hose going out of the gas tank is a vent hose so I can put that anywhere correct?

Thanks for the help, I have never seen a motor with so many hoses its crazy!

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 09:34 PM
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In the first picture, if that fitting is on the right side of the rear carb, yes, you cap that off.

In the second picture, if that is the crankcase vent hose, then yes, replace it with a longer one, with a filter on it, and stick it in any convenient place.

In the third picture, that is the airbox drain hose. It gets tossed along with the airbox.

My bike does not have that T near the carb, and I don't remember what it was for. It has been years since I removed all that crap, and I most likely just replaced it with a one piece line, without the T. The only vacuum lines that go to the carburetors are the one on the right rear that you need to plug, and the one on the left front, that goes to the vacuum petcock.

You will not need a drain hose with a sealed battery.

If you have only one hose connected to the gas tank, you have a non CA model, and that is the tank vent. Put a hose on it, and run it down underneath the bike somewhere. If you have 2 hoses connected to the tank, you only need to put a hose on one of them and a cap on the other one, but I put hoses on both mine, added a T, and ran just one hose down under the bike. That way, if I overfill the tank, the excess gas runs out the hose and underneath the bike. But, one of them can be plugged if you want, I just don't remember which one.

If you have 2 hoses on the tank, you have a CA model, and have a whole bunch more stuff to remove, right above the front of the swingarm, unless someone else already removed it. If it is there, remove the right side cover, and look just forward of the rear tire and you will see it. It is a rectangular plastic box, with a round plastic thing connected to it, and about 20 hoses going in all directions.

You will find one hose clipped to the right "ear", that is the carb vent hose, and needs to be rerouted/replaced with a longer hose if you are getting rid of the ears.



The entire air injection system is junk and is totally unnecessary, even if you are keeping the bike stock. I removed all of mine. You will find a metal valve under the seat, with 3 large diameter hoses connected to it. One of these hoses goes to the airbox. If you are removing the airbox, just remove that hose along with it. The other 2 hoses go to the cylinder heads right front, left rear. Remove both those, and the reed valve covers, if you intend to use coasters. Throw all that crap away, you might want to save the hoses for some other use later on.


And I agree, the Vulcan 750 is a much simpler, cleaner looking bike without all that crap all over it. You have the EPA to thank for all that S***. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike

Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 03-05-2010 at 09:42 PM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Yes the first picture is that of the right rear carb, I will go out and get a cap for that. The second picture is of the front cylinder and is facing the front of the bike. You can see the radiator fan in the pic.

Is it possible that the hose I am referring to, the one connected to the tee, is that of the carb vent hose? I don't recall any hose connected to the right ear, if there was I have no idea where it is.

I only have the one hose going to the tank and three hoses going to the petcock.

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 03:59 PM
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Ok, then you lucked out, and do not have a CA model. The one hose going to the tank is the tank vent, and the other end just needs to be left open. The hose in the second picture, which is also visible from the other side in the third picture, is the crankcase vent hose. If you are removing the airbox, you will need to keep this hose attached to the engine, or else replace it with another hose attached to the engine, and put a filter on the end of it. The filter can be located anywhere it can get air.

The hose that connects to the right "ear", is the carburetor float bowl vent, and it is the one with the T in it. First there are 2 hoses that connect to the carburetors, they connect to the T, and then a single hose from the T connects to the right ear. There are 2 ways of dealing with this one. You can either connect a hose onto each carb, and run them both down under the bike somewhere, or you can leave the T in place, and conect a longer hose to it, and run it down below the bike somewhere. Main thing is to keep the end of the hose/hoses open.


The hoses connected to the petcock all need to stay, the 2 big ones are fuel hoses, one goes to each carb, the small one is a vacuum line, and connects to the fitting on the front carb, which looks just like the fitting you will need to block off on the rear carb.

There are no more hoses to deal with. If you will be removing the ears and the entire airbox, including the air injection system, all you will need to do is to cap the reed valves on the cylinder heads, and install individual air filters on each carburetor. That would simplify things considerably. I'm even tempted to do it myself, except that I would leave the ears in place, just because I like the way they look. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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