What an I doing wrong? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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What an I doing wrong?



My stator is shot, so I've decided to tackle it. Radiator is off, all fluids drained, engine is free and moving, but I can't get the trans to move forward enough to swing the engine to the right like I've seen in pictures. I've already done an ear shave, so I've got more room to play with, so that's not a problem here.


People say "Be careful when you remove the FrontBevelGear case...there is a gear (damper cam) inside that can just plop out."



I have no idea wtf this Front Bevel Gear case is, where it is, how to remove it. It seems to be the missing piece in me getting my engine loose from the trans so I can swing to to the right.


Above in my picture, you can see the red circles indicate bolts I've removed thinking that entire piece was the Front Bevel Gear Case, .... Is it just what's circled in green? Only what's circled in blue?

I tried undoing what was circled in green, but it only spun (2 pieces) when i hit it was a hammer and some wood in between so I got scared and put it back to how it was.



What am I missing here?

Thanks for any help everyone. I've searched and searched and still can't figure this one out. Thanks.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 03:41 PM
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You need to remove all the bolts you have circled in red. The whole thing is the front bevel gear case. You will need to disengage it from the drive shaft at the front U joint. If this is the first time you have removed the engine, I strongly suggest having a manual if you don't already. The Clymer manual explains it pretty well, though I believe you can download the factory manual from here.


Also make sure you have the engine supported well. That sucker is heavy. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike

Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 12-30-2009 at 03:44 PM.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I had the right idea. I don't have to take off what's circled in green first right?

Thanks for the help. I've got the manual in pdf. I never bought one yet, but i should..and yes it's my first time, but doing much harder things to car engines before I figured this would be a no-brainer....turns out I was wrong
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 05:07 PM
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No, you take off the whole thing. The part circled in green comes off with it.

I have been a professional auto mechanic for 32 years, I wouldn't even think about working on the VN750 engine without a manual. It is way more complex than most car engines, especially the older small block Chevys that I have built so many of. I have every single step and every single spec for those memorized. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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I bet I'm missing a screw, I see one way in the back bottom I can't get quite to. It should probably just pop right off once everyhting's aligned.

my server is dead so i have no access to my pdf gah...go figure, working on rebuilding it now.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid7711 View Post
my server is dead so i have no access to my pdf gah...go figure, working on rebuilding it now.
here is a link to the manual in pdf:
http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/File...nd%20Parts.pdf

LETS RIDE!! VROC# 26137
☠ Black Candy ☠ '07 Mean Streak 1600
☠ Blue Crush ☠ '95 VN750-A11

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you sir!
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-01-2010, 10:32 AM
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off the top of my head I remember 7 screws, then it shoulb break loose and slide towards the front of the bike and off. be sure to lube the shaft and gears on that end while your in there with moly 60. theres a link in my sig on stator replacement but looks like you are almost there!

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-01-2010, 10:34 AM
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pop that rubber boot off towards the back of the bike too, it wont hold it much but it will a little

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-01-2010, 10:40 AM
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i know one of the bolt require a 1/4 inch drive 8mm to remove (smaller will fit in a tighter spot ) when the red bolts are out give it a light tap should pop right out ...

when u put it back make sure it seats in place befor u tightin it down i found that if u turn the back tire slightly when installing u will feel it seat tightin to spec and double check clutch function befor goin further ...



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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