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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-27-2009, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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synthetic to dyno and back

I just changed my oil and filter. I replaced the Rotella 5w-40 syn with the 15w-40 dino, also Shell. For one thing, the engine did seem to run quieter with the 15w-40, but that simply might be because it is fresh oil. I plan to go back to the syn come winter ( I ride pretty much year round ). Is there any detrimental effect in going from syn to dino, and back again? I'm kinda experimenting to see which I perceive to be better. Comments?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-27-2009, 01:38 AM
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The only real change you will notice is in your wallet.

Contrary to the myths out there, you can go from running synth to "dino" oil anytime you want.

I would however switch your seasons...synthetic oil really works well when it is hot...it's biggest advantage over dino oil. So I would use the synth in the hot seasons and use a good 10w40 for the winter months.

If you want to use a synth in the winter, I would suggest this one:
http://tinyurl.com/ysv7gj

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-27-2009, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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I figured (incorrectly?) that the 5w-40 syn was the better choice for cold weather, cold engine, first thing in the morning starts...that is, lighter initial viscosity and my perception that synthetic "clings" to engine inards better, residually, hence, quicker and better initial lubrication. I did this recent oil change after putting on 1700 miles (I use 7317 filters) using the synthetic. Those were mostly high speed, highway miles in a little over a week, and the engine was getting noisy and had a rattle. Did I wear out the lubricating properties of that 5w-40 syn with the harsh week of travel (FL to NJ in 2 days)? As mentioned, the fresh dino quieted the engine noise right down. I wonder (and will experiment next change) if fresh 5w-40 will similarly "quiet down" my engine.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-27-2009, 11:30 AM
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Oil can be a heated topic here. I run Lucas 20-50 MC synth and am very happy with it. As stated earlier, the pocket book can really bite it with the cost of synthetic MC oils.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-27-2009, 11:39 AM
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Oil can be a heated topic here. I run Lucas 20-50 MC synth and am very happy with it. As stated earlier, the pocket book can really bite it with the cost of synthetic MC oils.

DT

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 10:22 PM
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We all know that we all have an opinion on everything. Oil is the bloodline of your bike. Please take the time and read the facts and not just opinions. If you believe your blood is better, have your maker send you their testing.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
Thank you for reading. Amsoil man

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 10:45 PM
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One other thing you might consider (if you're not doing this already): shop your local parts stores for specials on engine oil products. Check out their websites to see what your local specials may be.

The Pep Boys nearest my neighborhood currently has a special on their Lucas 20W-50 Racing Oil.

I just paid $2 per quart for the stuff last week.

That's a smokin' deal--especially for oil that's formulated to work just fine in air-cooled motorcycle engines (so it should do as good or better with ours).

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 11:20 PM
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I noticed a post in the Yahoo group that seems to warn that some of the new Shell Rottella Synthetic oil has a new certification, that being the letters "SM" and that at least one forum has noticed that this new grade seems to be causing clutch slippage in wet clutch applications just like the ones seen from using "Energy Conserving" type oils.

SM is in fact a not only a new designation in testing, but is an oil with a different formula than SL rated oils. It was appearently made to cause less problems with catalytic converters, so it is quite possible that it may also effect wet clutches, Read your bottles carefully and try to avoid buying some by mistake........


UPDATE JULY 1ST FROM KRUSTY'S POST @ YAHOO:

Cut and paste from google search results =

American
Petroleum
Institute
Motor Oil Guide

SM

For all automotive engines presently in use.
Introduced November 30, 2004.
SM oils are designed to provide improved oxidation resistance,
improved deposit protection, better wear protection,
and better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil.
Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC specification
and/or qualify as Energy Conserving.

Road Track Tech Tidbits:

By the way, an API SM motor oil is not compatible with most motorcycles, where
the wet clutch runs in a bath of crankcase
oil. I spoke with API about this and learned that it's an inherent tradeoff of
friction modifiers: These additives help fuel economy of cars; they're counter
to the needs of motorcycle clutches transmitting increasingly great gobs of
horsepower and torque. My API source said the best oils for motorcycles are
those meeting SJ and earlier standards no longer certified by API. Such oils are
typically obtained directly through cycle manufacturer channels.


Dennis

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Last edited by Knifemaker; 07-01-2009 at 09:08 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-01-2009, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrwilco View Post
I just changed my oil and filter. I replaced the Rotella 5w-40 syn with the 15w-40 dino, also Shell. For one thing, the engine did seem to run quieter with the 15w-40, but that simply might be because it is fresh oil. I plan to go back to the syn come winter ( I ride pretty much year round ). Is there any detrimental effect in going from syn to dino, and back again? I'm kinda experimenting to see which I perceive to be better. Comments?
Switching to and from dyno and synthetic is not an issue, at least not for automobile engines. What was a problem, years ago, was the different additives that each brand of oil contained. They would sometimes cause issues (i.e., seal deteriation) when switching to between brands. I don't think that it is a problem today, but the old schoolers (like me) would stay with a particular brand of oil to do the experimentation (like you have).

I think that the 5w oil is a bit thin, unless your local temperatures are below 20 degrees F and you park the bike outdoors. A good synthetic 10w-40 will protect like a 5w-50, so no need to go thinner.

Synthetic oil is the better deal for most engines, but as long as you change it regularly, dyno oil is fine too.


Chris Glennon - Portland, OR
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-01-2009, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cglennon View Post
I think that the 5w oil is a bit thin, unless your local temperatures are below 20 degrees F and you park the bike outdoors. A good synthetic 10w-40 will protect like a 5w-50, so no need to go thinner.
Synthetic oil is the better deal for most engines, but as long as you change it regularly, dyno oil is fine too.
I wonder as some say that thin is better on start up and the oil is at 5w Equiv. only while cold (32*F)... But I am by no means an oil expert, more like an oil dummy...lol...

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