Bleeding Hydraulic Adjuster - Tech Tip - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Bleeding Hydraulic Adjuster - Tech Tip

Oh Guys and Gals........

A little tip for the ones who decide to take this chore on.

You need some Kerosene to do this in.

The easest & Cheapest way to get some is head to your local Wal-mart or K-mart or .98/.99/1.00 store and pick-up a bottle of your favorite Color/Scented Lamp Oil.

Until Next Time............

JaY



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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 07:04 PM
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isnt lamp oil perifan?



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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 07:21 PM
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...and what is this for???

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 07:41 PM
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Kerosene...??? Us rednecks call that coal oil...lol...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 07:56 PM
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I thought that was jet fuel.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 08:19 PM
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Why would I want to bleed my hydrolic adjusters? Aren't they by design, "self bleeding" (provided you put oil in them to start with)

And everyone was right, except perhaps Old Dog, as "coal oil" is not the same thing:

"Coal oil is a specific oil shale oil used for illuminating purposes. It is sometimes confused with kerosene or lamp oil, but coal oil is obtained from the destructive distillation of cannel coal, mineral wax, and bituminous shale, and hence called coal oil. A special type of coal known as cannel coal (classified also as terrestrial type of oil shale) is required to produce it."


(but rednecks call everything odd or improper names... )

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene

KM

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
And everyone was right, except perhaps Old Dog, as "coal oil" is not the same thing:
(but rednecks call everything odd or improper names... )
KM
Now you'r a getten the picther...lol...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

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Girl's Bike 09 Sporty xl 1200 Custom...33k + & clickin......
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09-xl1200 "C" Vivid Black, Cast wheels w/19" Frt., SE-Stage 1+, X14iEDs...
MicroTach +, Higher wider H-bars, GPS Mt., Mustach bar Hwy. pegs...
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Depending on which manual you use....
The downloaded one (PDF) page 80-81 (4-22 & 23)
Or Clymer Page 144-146

It has a whole procedure for Bleeding them if you've had the heads off and
laid them on their side or if you have a collaped one you have to replace.
Or if Have some you just want to test.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Why would I want to bleed my hydrolic adjusters? Aren't they by design, "self bleeding" (provided you put oil in them to start with)KM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace Bror View Post
...and what is this for???

JaY



"Veronica"
2002 VN750 Vulcan
Rebuilt Engine
ACCTs lubed w/TOC Springs
Pick-up Coils Gapped at .018"
Splines Lubed
Deka MF AGM EXT15L Battery
NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs
R/R Relocation Fix
New Rear Rack
Stock Seat Repadded
Ext-BackRest
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Why would I want to bleed my hydrolic adjusters? Aren't they by design, "self bleeding" (provided you put oil in them to start with)

And everyone was right, except perhaps Old Dog, as "coal oil" is not the same thing:

"Coal oil is a specific oil shale oil used for illuminating purposes. It is sometimes confused with kerosene or lamp oil, but coal oil is obtained from the destructive distillation of cannel coal, mineral wax, and bituminous shale, and hence called coal oil. A special type of coal known as cannel coal (classified also as terrestrial type of oil shale) is required to produce it."


(but rednecks call everything odd or improper names... )

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene

KM
are lifters unfortunatly are not self bleeding...



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 10:07 PM
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They bleed down when adjusted and as the parts wear they adjust out to keep the valves at the right adjustment. If they reach the end of the adjustment they have to be readjusted or bled down a little bit.

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