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Emissions Crap

8K views 41 replies 13 participants last post by  Markusox12 
#1 ·
Just to be sure this is all the Emissions stuff right? Making sure I didn’t pull anything important out.
 

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#6 ·
I love your description of this stuff. It is indeed CRAP Instead of coasters to cover up where the PAIR system hoses went, I just left the stock covers there, and capped them with car heater hose fitting caps available at pretty much any auto parts store. I can see using coasters (which do look better) back when these bikes were new, but considering what a lot of people are doing to them now, I really don't see how it matters. Anything looks better than those huge hoses that came on the bike.

This is the EVAP system.https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b253df8700223e478e82d/fuel-evaporative-system-ca

These are all parts of the PAIR system, which should be removed.https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b253df8700223e478e820/air-cleaner
16126
92037
92059A
92062
92071
92070A
92059B
92059D
92170B
92701A
1626
92059E
92071A

Remember to cap/plug all holes/fittings left open when these parts are removed.

Also take the gas cap apart and remove everything that you can get out of it.

If you have a CA tank, it will have 2 fittings at the rear, just under the front of the seat. Put rubber hoses on both fittings, and run them down under the bike somewhere. Leave the bottom ends open. This will ensure that you have the tank properly vented to the atmosphere and eliminate the POOGS symptoms caused by inadequate ventilation.

If you want, box up all the parts and send them to the EPA. I threw mine away, but that would have made me feel better.
 
#7 · (Edited)
First thing I did when I bought my 2005 (in 2011) was to peel off that uglifying sticker below the gas cap which says don't fill it to the top. (because the fuel would overflow and end up in the charcoal canister ?) This bike has the CA emission system, and I seem to remember seeing a diagram of the system either on the bike or in a manual. All the emission system components are still intact, and I plan to keep the bike looking mostly stock, and the bike continues to run okay. With the old saying in mind "If it ain't broke don't fix it", is there any major advantage to removing the smog system on this bike ?
 
#8 ·
My first reason is philosophical. It's GARBAGE that doesn't belong there. Removing it will also get rid of a lot of excess weight and a ridiculous amount of clutter. Like I've said before, if you remove both the PAIR system and EVAP system, it is enough GARBAGE to fill a 5 gallon bucket. Do you really want that CRAP on your bike? If it were a new bike, I could see leaving it there till the warranty expired (but still disabling it), then getting rid of it. You can disable the PAIR system simply by removing the huge ugly hoses from the reed valve covers, plugging them with marbles, and putting the hoses back. You can disable the EVAP system by removing both hoses at the rear of the gas tank, and removing the guts from the gas cap. But you're still hauling around 5 gallons of EPA GARBAGE. Made me feel real good getting rid of it. I have been fighting the EPA since 1975. They are the biggest enemy of any bike or car enthusiast.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, isn't it there for a reason? I thought you have always said that engineers put things on a bike for a reason? But in areas you don't agree on, engineers don't know what they are talking about? Like dual front brakes...

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#13 ·
My question remains: Will my bike, that runs okay, work SIGNIFICANTLY better if I take the time to remove or defeat part or all of the CA emission system? I seem to remember reading somewhere in the past that all of these bikes in 2005 where equipped to comply with the more stringent CA emission specs, regardless of what US state they were destined for.
 
#14 ·
I have a 2005 and I do not have the additional CA emissions “crap”. The other stuff I left on there because I kinda like the popping on deceleration. I bought the bike in NJ, I have no idea where the PO was from. But point being is I think the CA emissions equipment is specific to CA only.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I do not want any emissions crap on any of my vehicles, plain and simple. The key words there are "do not want" On the Vulcan 750 these systems can and do interfere with the proper operation of the bike. But I would have gotten rid of them even if that had not been the case. I do not believe the government has any business interfering with my vehicles, during design, manufacturing, or once I buy them. I simply undid what I feel should never have been done in the first place. On the Vulcan 750 it was cheap and mostly easy, though it took a while due to the sheer volume of what had to be removed. On a new bike, it gets very expensive. It has EFI and catalytic converters in the stock pipes. You have to replace the stock pipes, then buy a $500 electronic tuner to remap the ECU to make it run properly. Somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000. Plus if it is a new bike you probably void your engine warranty (you do with H-D) If I were planning to buy one of those bikes, I would figure that into the price. I have been fighting the EPA for more than 45 years, I'm certainly not going to stop now. EDIT: I just saw a thread where someone broke off a bolt in the head while trying to remove the reed valve cover. It really pisses me off that this bolt was only there because of the EPA.

The brake and throttle modifications on the other hand were made simply to improve function. I converted my front brake from an on/off switch to a perfectly functioning and easy to modulate brake, which has way more than enough power to lock the front wheel at will. I proved it to be safe during over 80,000 miles of use. Many larger and heavier bikes, especially cruisers, came with only one front disc, which worked fine. 2 smaller less powerful brakes should have worked fine, but why the added unnecessary complication? As for the throttle, all bikes used to come with a single throttle cable. It worked fine. Then someone decided to make it more complicated by adding another cable. That added twice as much cable and twice as much friction to the system with no improvement that I could see. Open your throttle all the way, then hold it open at the carbs, and try to close the twist grip. All the other cable does is bunch up at the carbs. I own a Honda Rebel 250 (I've had four) and over the years saw several posts about sticking throttles that turned out to be the "extra" cable binding in the housing. A sticking throttle on a motorcycle is not a good thing. So I removed that cable from my Rebel. I instantly noticed how much better the throttle felt, and how it snapped back so easily and quickly when released. I did the same thing to my Vulcan 750 with the same results. It became obvious that instead of making things safer, the extra cable actually made things more dangerous. That modification has also proven reliable and safe over a lot of years and miles. I also remove the "nanny" switches on the sidestand and clutch lever. Those are obviously not necessary. Lawyers are probably the reason they are there. Just learn to ride. If you are a beginner, do what I did. make a checklist and tape it to the tank. Read it every time you get on the bike. It will become permanently ingrained in your memory.


And no, the Vulcan 750 does not need all the parts it has. It does not need four camshafts, four cam chains, two jackshafts, eight valves, four spark plugs, or two carburetors. Other bikes run just fine with only half as many of all those parts. Some parts you can remove, some you can't. I just saw a post about someone putting a single carburetor on a Vulcan 750. I believe this would be an improvement if it were properly designed and manufactured. But it is too complicated to rig.

Many people run car tires on the back of a motorcycle. Common sense would seem to say that is unsafe. It seems obvious that a car tire has the wrong profile for a vehicle that leans over in turns. Yet extensive use over millions of miles without a single accident caused by doing it has proven it to be safe.

Many people tow trailers with motorcycles. Something I wouldn't even consider. It might work just cruising down the road, but would, at least in my opinion, turn into a disaster when you needed the handling and maneuverability of a motorcycle to get out of a sticky situation. I can't find any statistics about accidents that were caused by towing a trailer, or that may have been prevented by not towing a trailer, but I am convinced it is dangerous, and won't do it.

Does riding a bike with rear shocks that are two inches to short and that do not have the load capacity of the stock shocks make it unsafe?

Everybody has their opinions about what should or should not be done when it comes to motorcycles. And they are going to disagree. Having been an auto mechanic for 38 years I have a pretty good idea how things work (except for computers, but then that really has nothing to do with mechanics) I have built hot rods and race cars. I tend to think things through before I do them. And so far that has worked out good for me. Hopefully others will put some thought into their modifications beforehand, and not have to find out the hard way that it was not a good idea.
 
#29 ·
I do not believe the government has any business interfering with my vehicles, during design, manufacturing, or once I buy them.
Like it or not, they do and will have that "right". The clean air we have to breathe is why. Remember the last time LA had a smog day? No? Thank the EPA.
 
#26 · (Edited)
If you maintain your cables, they don't bind up... And I would love to see how removing a caliper makes it easier to moderate the brake lever. It should make it stiffer, if anything, because a master cylinder designed for a two caliper brake system has more psi than one designed for a single brake system. Tried it on my Cb 750 and also used a dual system master on my xs400(which has a single brake) and guess what? The brakes would lock up on about a 1/4" of pull... And most people pulling a trailer are smart enough to know that a motorcycle pulling a trailer does not handle like a motorcycle not pulling a trailer... And just because a bike is designed to carry less weight than another has nothing to do with the spring rates of a shock. An Evolution Sportster weighs about 550 lbs. An xs400 weighs about 370... Take the shocks off of the Sportster and put them on the Yamaha and you can bottom them easily by bouncing on the bike. But in theory, shouldn't the shocks from the heavier bike be harder to bottom out? Swingarm leverage...
 
#31 ·
The Kawasaki PAIR system injects fresh air into the exhaust stream to help ignite unburned fuel in the exhaust system, similar to the old "smog pumps" from cars in the 70's. It is not an EGR system. You are absolutely incorrect, Denver.

Popping on decel can be caused by the PAIR system, a too-lean fuel mix (which was the default setting from the factory) or can be caused by clogged up carbs providing a too-lean fuel mixture. Failed enrichment diaphragms can cause it, too but are not the only cause of popping.

The stuff about Jerry/OldDirtyDoc is forum drama. Ignore and don't comment on it if you don't care.
 
#33 ·
The Kawasaki PAIR system injects fresh air into the exhaust stream to help ignite unburned fuel in the exhaust system, similar to the old "smog pumps" from cars in the 70's. It is not an EGR system. You are absolutely incorrect, Denver.



Popping on decel can be caused by the PAIR system, a too-lean fuel mix (which was the default setting from the factory) or can be caused by clogged up carbs providing a too-lean fuel mixture. Failed enrichment diaphragms can cause it, too but are not the only cause of popping.



The stuff about Jerry/OldDirtyDoc is forum drama. Ignore and don't comment on it if you don't care.
As exhaust goes through the goat's belly, so is the days of our lives... Lololol

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#36 ·
Remove the two air filter housings, all four air ducts, and the airbox with it's drain hose. Most people cut up the airbox to remove it.

If you want the airbox to be in one piece, you have to disconnect all the wiring harness from under the seat, then pull the rear half of the harness out of the frame and toward the front. Then you can force the airbox toward the rear, over the battery, and out in one piece.

I did it in one piece in case I needed to put it all back, but I know I'll never need to. It cleans up the bike and carb work is easier without that airbox, ducts, and hoses.
 
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