VN 750 blues .1st ride around the block. Short lived - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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VN 750 blues .1st ride around the block. Short lived

Testing headlamps and blinkers all's good. After a brief shut down no dash lights or ignition. Suspected starter relay and purchased a generic stand in.I have voltage at relay with ignition switch off. And 0 voltage with switch off? next I did the J.B. 2 wire mod. and looked at wires at left top corner for loose or broken connections. May do the blue wire mod. thinking its the headlight relay?? Again no dash lights and with switch on the electricity cannot be found?? what is a logical next step. How do I look at the ignition switch contacts or what would keep voltage from flowing. Grounds are tight. should I sand them off?? I have read many forums looking for similarities I am not having much fun anymore please advise. The middle pic is the rectifier under battery everything else looks un weathered lol

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 01:14 AM
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Would like to help, but it's very hard to understand what you are trying to say. There are four terminals on the starter relay. Between what two physical things are you getting voltage when the ignition is 'off'? Which thing is positive?

Could be as simple as a bad connection at the battery terminals.

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:44 AM
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One of the large cable terminals on the starter solenoid is always hot, it comes straight from the battery.

No dash lights - Sounds like your ignition switch is faulty/dirty. There are threads here on cleaning the ign. switch "puck". That's assuming you've checked the battery connections and they are clean and tight.

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you both for your reply. Any chance you could send me a link for ignition switch puck cleaning? At the starter solenoid the large wire directly off the battery there is 12.6 volts with the key off. key on or p nothing no voltage at solenoid. this pic is with a temporary solenoid I bought yesterday at auto parts store. Does the ignition switch come out of the bottom of dash without taking the dash off? Shouldn't I get 12 volts at the selinoid with key on and at the starter? thank you for your clarity. I realize im a little challenged in that dept.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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sorry about the pics will try again.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 03:14 PM
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So, yeah. The solenoid should have positive voltage on the big wire running straight from the positive terminal of the battery. Always.
The smaller yellow/red wire coming from the ignition should get positive voltage only when the ignition is 'on' and the start button is pushed.

Can you verify the voltage between the battery terminals both when ignition is 'off' and 'on'? Without being there, I would guess you have a bad connection or wire between the starter relay and the battery, or the battery and frame. Battery and frame makes the most sense since you're losing dash lights too.

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 03:17 PM
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Assuming you tested the same terminal on the solenoid, I think you should have the battery load tested. There's no reason for the voltage on the battery cable to change that much with just turning the key on. ... except that the battery may be defective, or bad connections as Thorn said.

I've never had to clean my switch, and there are several threads about it, so I'm not sure which threads are the best to give you.
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__________________________________________________ ____________
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Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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I am putting the ignition back on tonight. the fact that the 12.6 volts are not present while key is in the on position. And button pushed. Could this be a by product of the ignition switch not making contact internally?Im praying that the start button is working.can the start button be cleaned? I checked grounds by using a multimeter, with the red probe on battery positive and black probe on the suspected ground. The battery charges and holds the charge. I agree with you both. I hooked up a huge selinoid it looks amazingly stupid and is acting the same way as the orignal lol. I have never seen voltage just disappear when key is turned on. anyways Im not trying to waste your knowledge by asking the same questions in different ways but thats what it feels like. I tried jumping it with the key on and start button pushed nothing. I did the 2wire mod so that rules out the handlebar kill switch , neutral safety switch ,and the J.B. relay yes did I cover all the benefits of the 2wire mod??? have a safe and restful night Thank you Thorn &Spockster
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So, yeah. The solenoid should have positive voltage on the big wire running straight from the positive terminal of the battery. Always.
The smaller yellow/red wire coming from the ignition should get positive voltage only when the ignition is 'on' and the start button is pushed.

Can you verify the voltage between the battery terminals both when ignition is 'off' and 'on'? Without being there, I would guess you have a bad connection or wire between the starter relay and the battery, or the battery and frame. Battery and frame makes the most sense since you're losing dash lights too.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you I will do exactly that. Positive battery wire could be intermittent and bad. I will also take off both grounds at the B.box and sand clean.. Thank you have a great evening
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I am putting the ignition back on tonight. the fact that the 12.6 volts are not present while key is in the on position. And button pushed. Could this be a by product of the ignition switch not making contact internally?Im praying that the start button is working.can the start button be cleaned? I checked grounds by using a multimeter, with the red probe on battery positive and black probe on the suspected ground. The battery charges and holds the charge. I agree with you both. I hooked up a huge selinoid it looks amazingly stupid and is acting the same way as the orignal lol. I have never seen voltage just disappear when key is turned on. anyways Im not trying to waste your knowledge by asking the same questions in different ways but thats what it feels like. I tried jumping it with the key on and start button pushed nothing. I did the 2wire mod so that rules out the handlebar kill switch , neutral safety switch ,and the J.B. relay yes did I cover all the benefits of the 2wire mod??? have a safe and restful night Thank you Thorn &Spockster

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 03:18 AM
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It might be a good idea to take a step back, and start from scratch. Ignoring the solenoid voltage flip for now, let's get the power to your dash sorted out, since that will give us a foundation from which we can branch out from.

Unplug your R/R (which may or may not have a failed component in it causing weird grounding issues) and with the ignition off, check that you have voltage on both sides of your main fuse. If so, then turn your ignition to 'park' and you should get tail-lights and you should be able to turn on your hazards.

If either one of those things can turn on, then your main circuit for power through the JB is OK. If both of them fail to come on, you've got a connection problem in your battery/JB/harness. If only one of them works, you've likely got a bad ignition puck (each of those uses a distinct switch in the puck, unlikely to both go bad at exactly the same time).

Switching to 'on' causes the ignition puck to re-route your tail-light through the headlight fuse, so you can see if that circuit gives different results than the more direct wire used when in park.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

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Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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