VN 750 blues .1st ride around the block. Short lived - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
VN750 General Discussion

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorn View Post
It might be a good idea to take a step back, and start from scratch. Ignoring the solenoid voltage flip for now, let's get the power to your dash sorted out, since that will give us a foundation from which we can branch out from.

Unplug your R/R (which may or may not have a failed component in it causing weird grounding issues) and with the ignition off, check that you have voltage on both sides of your main fuse. If so, then turn your ignition to 'park' and you should get tail-lights and you should be able to turn on your hazards.

If either one of those things can turn on, then your main circuit for power through the JB is OK. If both of them fail to come on, you've got a connection problem in your battery/JB/harness. If only one of them works, you've likely got a bad ignition puck (each of those uses a distinct switch in the puck, unlikely to both go bad at exactly the same time).

Switching to 'on' causes the ignition puck to re-route your tail-light through the headlight fuse, so you can see if that circuit gives different results than the more direct wire used when in park.
Thank you. what is the R/R?

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 03:45 PM
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It’s your rectifier/regulator. Take the left side panel off and it’s under the battery case. Unplug the 6 pin connector.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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R/R regulator rectifier got it thanks for your attention
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorn View Post
It might be a good idea to take a step back, and start from scratch. Ignoring the solenoid voltage flip for now, let's get the power to your dash sorted out, since that will give us a foundation from which we can branch out from.

Unplug your R/R (which may or may not have a failed component in it causing weird grounding issues) and with the ignition off, check that you have voltage on both sides of your main fuse. If so, then turn your ignition to 'park' and you should get tail-lights and you should be able to turn on your hazards.

If either one of those things can turn on, then your main circuit for power through the JB is OK. If both of them fail to come on, you've got a connection problem in your battery/JB/harness. If only one of them works, you've likely got a bad ignition puck (each of those uses a distinct switch in the puck, unlikely to both go bad at exactly the same time).

Switching to 'on' causes the ignition puck to re-route your tail-light through the headlight fuse, so you can see if that circuit gives different results than the more direct wire used when in park.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Following the white/red wire from the selinoid with 12volts. to fuse box with key on and fuse pulled one side has voltage.with key on I put the fuse in and no voltage either side of 30 amp fuse? key off there is power. At fuse box with key off theres 12.8 at 30 amp fuse both sides. and the same at the 10 amp next door. the other 2 no voltage. with key on or off.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Fyi I did not join the black/red and yellow/red off fuse box after the 2wire mod. is that wrong Do they need to be togather. is my current heald up there? no dash lights. puck cleaned

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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When I unplug R/R and check I verify 12,7 v at 30 amp and 10 next to it. key in park no voltage or tail lights or hazzard lights or dash. with key on electric is no longer present at selonoid (the cable from battery. key off its there. Last always 12.7 on battery + and~neg.

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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In p. There is almost 6 volts at 30amp fuse. in the on position the same fuse reads .02 volts.

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Ryman View Post
Fyi I did not join the black/red and yellow/red off fuse box after the 2wire mod. is that wrong Do they need to be togather. is my current heald up there? no dash lights. puck cleaned

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That's wrong. Taking those two wires off the JB and joining them is the Two-Wire Mod. Which two did you use?

I don't think this will affect the dash lights though.


Quote:
The Two Wire Mod

1) At the Junction Box, find the 10-pin connector (smaller of the two)

2) Locate the yellow/red stripe and black/red stripe wires (Kawi also used all black instead of black/red)

3) Remove the two wires from the 10-pin plug

4) Splice the two wires together securely and insulate properly


On your last post.... I'm back to wanting a Load test on the battery, not a voltage check. If it passes, I would check the grounds off the battery.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 06-05-2019 at 11:15 PM.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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That's wrong. Taking those two wires off the JB and joining them is the Two-Wire Mod. Which two did you use?

I don't think this will affect the dash lights though.






On your last post.... I'm back to wanting a Load test on the battery, not a voltage check. If it passes, I would check the grounds off the battery.
I joined the 2 wires once cut from pig tail. but the 2 left hanging attached to plug in I did not connect so they are taped at the ends. Do i connect them togather to return into J.B.?

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:36 PM
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I joined the 2 wires once cut from pig tail. but the 2 left hanging attached to plug in I did not connect so they are taped at the ends. Do i connect them togather to return into J.B.?

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No, sounds like you did it right, don't join the two on the plug.

Maybe I misread the other post.

Seems like either the battery is dropping off as soon as any load is put on it. Or, the grounds won't support the current when the switch is on.

Hook a set of jumper cables from a car battery and see how it behaves. Don't jump it from a running car.

If it's still the same, check those grounds off the battery, check both ends.
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Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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