How to get my VN750 in best condition? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-06-2009, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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How to get my VN750 in best condition?

Hi,

In a short while I will get my VN750 out of the garage for my second season. In April 2008 I got my drivers license. I'm very excited to ride again and want my bike to be in best condition. But what to do? I'v read a lot of information about the maintenance but it is so much. Can someone provide me a list of things to do/check to get my bike in best condition? I already have iridium spark plugs and a new battery. I also put in new oil and new air filters. I have to mention that I'm not a mechanical and I spent probably more time doing the above things than others. Can I do all things myself or do I have to take my bike to a garage where someone with more knowledge can do the difficult things?

Willem
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-06-2009, 03:54 AM
 
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What I did and do on my motorbikes beside what you've already done:

- check the brakes, fluid and brakepads (Fluid older than 2-3 years = replacement, brake pads below 2 mm thickness = replacement)
- check the cooling fluid (older than 4 years = replacement)
- check the Fork oil (oil older than 4 years = replacement, Forkseals when leaky = replacement)
- Rear shock (this is a big advantage on the VN 750 because the oil inside the dampers is changeable very easily; after 4 years replacement)
- check the tyre pressure (tyres older than 4-5 years needs to be replaced)
- check and oil the bowden cables (WD 40)
- check the lights

Everything can be done by yourself with the Forum or a Clymers except the replacement of the brake fluid or the brake pads. This should be done together with someone who knows what to do. To replace the brake fluid it is useful to have a third hand. It isn't complicated but you have to trust your brakes in every situation. All these jobs are possible in one day and it isn't expensive.

Last edited by T.o.m; 03-06-2009 at 03:57 AM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-06-2009, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.o.m View Post
What I did and do on my motorbikes beside what you've already done:

- check the brakes, fluid and brakepads (Fluid older than 2-3 years = replacement, brake pads below 2 mm thickness = replacement)
- check the cooling fluid (older than 4 years = replacement)
- check the Fork oil (oil older than 4 years = replacement, Forkseals when leaky = replacement)
- Rear shock (this is a big advantage on the VN 750 because the oil inside the dampers is changeable very easily; after 4 years replacement)
- check the tyre pressure (tyres older than 4-5 years needs to be replaced)
- check and oil the bowden cables (WD 40)
- check the lights

Everything can be done by yourself with the Forum or a Clymers except the replacement of the brake fluid or the brake pads. This should be done together with someone who knows what to do. To replace the brake fluid it is useful to have a third hand. It isn't complicated but you have to trust your brakes in every situation. All these jobs are possible in one day and it isn't expensive.

Great List!

Additions:
- Clean carburetors
- Add Seafoam to gas tank
- Just before the next oil change; drain a few ounces of old oil and add a few ounces of Seafoam, let it run through the system, then change the oil & filter
- Inspect all hoses and seals for signs of cracks or buldges
- Listen: any ticking, slapping or other noises that "just don't sound right"? This forum will tell you what they are and what's needed to correct them

The dealer or your favorite repair shop can do the things that you can't or don't have the specialized equipment for.

- Sychronize carburetors
- Pressurize rear shock (if needed by carrying weight and riding style)
- Check charging system


Chris Glennon - Portland, OR
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-06-2009, 11:19 AM
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Pull it out of the garage, start it up, do the pre-trip checks. Go around the block, if it feels good and it runs fine, cleaner her up. Fill tank with fuel a little seafoam and go. imo

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.o.m View Post
What I did and do on my motorbikes beside what you've already done:

- check the brakes, fluid and brakepads (Fluid older than 2-3 years = replacement, brake pads below 2 mm thickness = replacement)
- check the cooling fluid (older than 4 years = replacement)
- check the Fork oil (oil older than 4 years = replacement, Forkseals when leaky = replacement)
- Rear shock (this is a big advantage on the VN 750 because the oil inside the dampers is changeable very easily; after 4 years replacement)
- check the tyre pressure (tyres older than 4-5 years needs to be replaced)
- check and oil the bowden cables (WD 40)
- check the lights

Everything can be done by yourself with the Forum or a Clymers except the replacement of the brake fluid or the brake pads. This should be done together with someone who knows what to do. To replace the brake fluid it is useful to have a third hand. It isn't complicated but you have to trust your brakes in every situation. All these jobs are possible in one day and it isn't expensive.
You will have to excuse my ignorance, but what is a bowden cable? For the life of me, I cannot imagine what you are referring to!!

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 01:51 AM
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A Bowden cable normaly consists of a inner cable wraped with a Helical wound steel wire normaly coated in plastic. Here is a pic, you may have seen one or two before. LOL

BTW how is the leg?


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Last edited by lance328; 04-10-2009 at 09:09 AM.
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