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Oil Change Procedure

54K views 55 replies 32 participants last post by  Grizzlyonu 
#1 · (Edited)
Oil Change
Kawasaki Vulcan 750

(updated 8-21-09 ~ comments/corrections/rebuttals welcome!)

Oil:
Use any 10w40 or 15w40 oil that meets Kaw specs and is not “energy conserving” – Viscosity = SAE 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50; Type = API SE, SF or SG; API SH or SJ with JASO MA. The most common suggestions I’ve received include:
• Shell Rotella T 15W-40.
• Mobil One 10W-40 synthetic; Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 synthetic motorcycle oil; Mobil 1 (“red cap”) 15w50; Mobil Delvac 1300 15W-40.
• Chevron Delo 400.
• Castrol GTX 10W-40; Castrol Syntec 10W-40; Castrol Actevo 10W-40; Castrol 4T 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil
• Valvoline Blue 15W-40.
• Kendall Motorcycle Oil 20W-50.
• Lucas Full Motorcycle Synth 20W-50.
• Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle-specific synthetic.

Filter:
The stock Kaw part # 16097-1066 FILTER-ASSY-OIL 2003 (an auto parts store can cross reference a another one for you). The most common suggestions I’ve received include:
• Purolator Pure One Filter (PL14610) – it’s blue, so use flat black spray paint, several coats all at once, then let dry before mounting.
• Amsoil SMF103.
• Mobil 1 M 1-110 or Mobil 1 M-108, Champion.
• Bosch 3323 or 3300, Champion.
• Wix (black), # 51334 or 51356.
• K & N 202 – larger than most; also has a “nut” at the end for easier removal.
• Supertech ST7317 (longer), ST6607 (shorter) – cheap from Walmart.

Procedure:
• Change the oil when the engine is warm/hot. (Some riders add a little Seaform before heating up the oil just prior to changing it.) Remember: when the engine is running, there is no oil in the sight glass.
• Tools: 17 mm socket, socket wrench, oil filter remover, oil, filter, drain pan, wide-mouthed funnel, knee cushion, torque wrench.
• Gather paper towels, small sheet of heavy aluminum foil, a solid plastic container (for the old oil), newspapers, and a box/bag (for the oily towels/rags).
• Put the bike on the center stand over a thick mat of widely-strewn newspapers, and place the oil drain pan under the left side of the engine.
• On the left side near the bottom there is a 17mm oil drain plug. Loosen the plug, and let the oil begin to drain. As the flow decreases, remove plug entirely. (Some, who drain the oil on the side stand, will then lean the bike far to the left to get the last bit of oil to drain. I find this difficult to do with the full oil pan under the bike.)
• Once it’s drained, reach in and very gently remove the loose-fitting spring, the flat washer, and (with your pinky) the snugly-fitting (metal/tubular) screen.
• Clean the screen of any debris (you may want to soak it in high flash point solvent; some use Seafoam). Replace the screen, washer and spring in the correct order.
• Replace the drain plug. (If you have a torque wrench, tighten to ONLY 13 ft-lbs – lots of people strip drain plugs!)
• Move the drain pan to the front of the engine under the oil filter. Push the aluminum foil under the oil filter (making a crude funnel) before removing it. (The foil will prevent oil from leaking behind the starter, which is not easy to wipe away.)
• Remove the filter. (An oil filter remover may be needed.) Make sure that the rubber gasket comes off; if not, remove gently. Wipe off any leaked oil from around the oil filter plate and starter motor.
• Some prime the oil filter by pouring oil into it until it’s full and then let it sit for a few minutes (almost all of the oil will be absorbed into the oil filter, so it doesn’t make a mess when it’s screwed on).
• Rub a thin coating of clean oil around the rubber gasket of the new oil filter and screw it onto the mount, turning it hand tight – 1/4 turn past snug.
• Add the new oil. Once the oil site glass shows the oil level touching the H (full) line, stop and replace the filler cap and start the engine and warm it up. Then stop the engine and let the oil settle for around 5-10 minutes.
• Check the oil site glass – with the bike still on the center stand – and slowly (a little at a time) top off the oil level, if needed. Leave a bubble at the top of the site glass. (Do not overfill by trying to put in a full 4 liters! Most riders can only put in 3-3.5 liters to bring it up to the full mark. It’s easier to add a little oil later than to drain the excess!)
• Don’t be alarmed if the oil light comes on for a little bit once you fire the bike up. If it seems like it’s staying on too long, you may have an air pocket in the line somewhere. Loosening and then re-tightening the filter, while the bike is running (allowing a slight bit of oil to come out) usually seems to get the light to go out.
• Take used oil to Auto Zone or similar spot for recycling.
 
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#2 ·
Looks like ya got what ya need.

Don't be alarmed if the oil light comes on for a little bit once ya fire the bike up.
If it seems like it's staying on too long, ya may have an air pocket in the line somewhere.
Loosening and then re-tightening the filter, while the bike is running (allowing a slight bit of oil to come out) seems to usually get the light to go out.
 
#3 ·
Some just like doing this themselves and find satisfaction in doing it. Is there a cost savings to doing your own oil change? If so how much?
 
#33 ·
I recently took my VN750 to a local mechanic for some maintenance (sadly, a battery check was not part of the deal, as I found out last Sunday). Anyway, I told them that I'd do the oil myself when they said it would be $100 in parts and labor ($82/hour) for the oil change. On my end, it cost me about $20 for oil and filter, plus an hour or so to do the change.
 
#4 ·
Charlie, nice job on the write-up.

Seth, I don't know what a bike shop would charge. But the satisfaction of knowing it is done right, with the correct parts, and in your own driveway in 15 minutes borders on priceless.

Jon
 
#5 ·
Nice job Charlie! Only thing I would add is it will be easier to add the new oil, watching your site glass for the level, if you eventually put the bike on the centerstand, as you will want the bike sitting as level as possible to get the correct reading on the site glass.

Thanks for taking the time to write this up!
 
#6 ·
Good write up EasyRector.

I found out the other day when I did my oil change that Wix makes a filter for out bikes too that's already black. The part # is 51358, it costs a little more than the Fram (the only other one I could find in my area) but the Fram is orange, so you gotta take the time to paint it.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Oil change

Thanks for the Oil change write up. I agree with a lot of the write up and learned a few pointers too.

My stealership advised me to drain the oil from Lena using the very bottom bolt in order to get all the oil out.

Found a very interesting site on Oil, I learned a lot from it. Especially why
MC oils are better than other oils.

Here is one question in the article:

Q: WHY ARE MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC OILS BETTER?
A: Motorcycle specific oils are pumped up with five times the anti-wear, anti-scuff and extreme pressure additives of regular motor oil. As an added plus, motorcycle oil does not include molybdenum disulfide and other friction modifiers that wreak havoc on clutch performance.

The article:
http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
 
#8 · (Edited)
For what it's worth, I found that, with the Bosch filter, even after sitting for a week on level concrete via the centerstand, using 3 quarts 10 ounces of oil yielded an oil meniscus that was just at the upper level mark on the oil level sight glass.

3 1/2 quarts after one week was too much, completely filling the sight glass.

My bike is an '05 model.
 
#9 ·
For what it's worth, I found that, using the Bosch filter, even after sitting for a week on level concrete via the centerstand, that using 3 quarts 12 ounces of oil yielded an oil meniscus that was just at the upper level mark on the oil level sight glass.

3 1/2 quarts after one week was too much, completely filling the sight glass.

My bike is an '05 model.
I just found the same (although am waiting for the meniscus to drop a little). Where'd Kaw get the 4.0 liters figure?
 
#10 ·
4 liters is a dry engine spec.
Anyone that has removed an engine will find little pockets of oil that just don't drain out unless you lift the bike and work it all towards the drain holes. I know I had at least a cup of oil come out when I removed the front bevel gear. Then a little in the clutch plates, the misting around the stator, other various parts that are coated with oil, it adds up. Since we don't completely remove the oil from these with a regular oil change, it takes less.
 
#12 ·
Cindy -

I put in 3 quarts, start it, let it run for 30 seconds. Shut it, let it sit for 5 minutes and check and add slowly as required. I hate when it goes over the top of the glass.

Jon
 
#14 ·
Oil Change

Hi.......I have never been able to get one drop of oil out of the bottom plug after pulling the side drain plug & screen & letting it drain for thirty minutes or so. I will never bother pulling the bottom one again.

2006 VN750
Pure One 14610 Oil Filter (Painted)
Mobile 1 MX4T 10-W-40 synthetic M/C Oil (Walmart)

I also will NEVER put a "Fram" oil filter in any vehicle that I own! Not even my kids little red wagon!

Tcat
 
#15 ·
Probably why my stealership uses the bottom drain plug is because they
don't bother cleaning the screen? I know on my KAW KLR 650 many riders
don't always clean the screen.
 
#16 ·
For whatever reason, my used 86 doesn't have a center stand. So, the trick I used to easily check the eyeglass was to tie a rope around the sissybar, set it level, and stick the other rope in my workbench vise. That way, I could check for perfectly level without dropping the bike. Its pretty hard to hold it totally level otherwise, without a centerstand. Or an assistant.

I used generic 10W40 oil. I'm not sure of the advantages of anything more fancy. And the "pure one" filter (though smaller than the stock filter) fit nicely. Overall, its about a 15 minute job. A little messy in my case, but definitely worth doing yourself. And this is from a guy that usually takes his car to the shop for the oil, only because changing the oil on my VW is a real pain. The bike oil change is pretty straightforward.
 
#17 ·
I like the K&N 202 filter. It's the largest filter I've found for our bikes. More surface area for the oil to flow over. Also has a "nut" on the end of the filter for easier removal during oil changes. Cheese and crackers, just over a month and almost time to change it again.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tip on the K&N Oil filter, will have to find one. What color is it?

Since this is an Oil Change thread here is a pic of the Oil Gypsy used.



If I could find this Pennsylvania oil I would use it. The Kendal Oil Company is 125 years old this year.

 
#21 · (Edited)
Confirm the VN750 oil change uses around 3.4 - 3.5 Quarts of oil. Just changed Lena's oil and used Castrol GTX 10-40, she loved it. Thanks Easy R
for reminding me that Castrol GTX is about the only dyno motor oil that is good for mc's, but I will be changing it after 1-2K or so.

Had a Quart of Castrol gear oil 75w-90, 100% synthetic laying around so I used it for the final drive even though I just purchased 30 quarts of Redline
100% genuine synthetic gear oil for all my vehicles. That final drive oil put in at the factory sure looked dirty and nasty after only 1100 miles. The Amzoil web site recommends that dyno gear oil is used for the first 2K or so before putting in synthetic, but that sounds a bit much.

Am sold on Redline, but the Redline motor oil is a bit extravagent, and I haven't decided what synthetic I will be using once Lena's valves are seated comfy.
 
#22 ·
A brief interjection...

I will continue noting all the posts on this topic for a while longer. When the energy dissipates, I will revise my oil changing procedure (at the beginning of this thread) and post the final draft.

Obviously, there are endless opinions/experiences on even this simple procedure, so I don't suppose there will ever be "definitive" guide to changing the oil on a VN 750!

I REALLY appreciate everyone sharing their opinions/wisdom!
 
#23 ·
good write up. i printed it out and used today for my 1st oil change. i used castol syntec 10w40 says its not the energy crap. cost about 4.50 p/qt at advanced auto. used a pl14610 filter and did the spray paint. oil light went right out and she seems to be running great. i also changed out brake fluid and gave her a bath for good measure.
 
#26 · (Edited)
my first oil change

I had the oil/filter changed at these mileage markers: 842, 3160, 3801, and 5465. I wish that I had changed the oil myself earlier and more often. The first time I changed it myself was today, at 5465, and I found pieces of shaved aluminum on the filter screen! It makes me wonder if the two dealers who did the initial three changes bothered to clean the screen. In any case, I will do it myself from now on.

Question #1: No one has said anything about cleaning the oil screen with the high flash-point solvent suggested in the manual. Does anyone do that? Or do you just wipe it off?

Question #2: It was suggested that the oil drain plug be tightened to the specified torque of 13 pounds to avoid stripping it. I use one of those Sears Craftsman torque wrenches with the twin bars and the red needle that doesn't seem to give that specific of a reading. All I know is that I tightened the drain plug somewhere within the range of 12-20 lbs. Should I get a more expensive torque wrench, or is OK to simply be in the ballpark?
 
#28 ·
Question #1: No one has said anything about cleaning the oil screen with the high flash-point solvent suggested in the manual. Does anyone do that? Or do you just wipe it off?
A little late gettin' to ya here, but here's my thoughts on this...
I've just used my air compressor, at low pressure, to blow the stuff off the screen. If I were to see 'stuff' built up on it, I'd probably soak or spray it with brake cleaner or something similar, then blow it off again.

Question #2: Should I get a more expensive torque wrench, or is OK to simply be in the ballpark?
If it shows 12, just go about the thickness of the indicator point past that and ya should be fine. I'd stay away from the 20 end of the scale. Sometimes just that much too much can sieze it enough to give ya problems at the next change.

And good point on tipping the bike back and forth Taylor :smiley_th
Always best to get as much as ya can out before adding fresh.
 
#27 ·
i have found that if you drain the oil with the bike on the sidestand and wait till it all comes out then lean the bike back to level and then put it back on the sidestand you will get quite a bit more oil out i repeat this 3or4 times and managed to get almost 4 qts back in the bike also amsoil and k+n make nice looking chrome filters
 
#30 ·
I change the oil every 3k miles, or 4-5 times a year. (I ride a lot.) I check the screen every change, but have never seen anything on it.
 
#31 ·
First time I changed the oil in my 1500 when I pulled out the screen and such I freeked! It was all in there backwards. I was thinking what kind of damage the PO had done to the bike. I decided to go in the house and look up the diagrams and sure enough, it was right. It goes in there opposite how the 750 does. So, any of you that help a brother or sister with their bigger cruiser, you might want to look up the diagrams to make sure you know how it goes!

Once again Charlie, nice job on this thread!:beerchug:
 
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