is it fixed? i need help /sigh - Page 3

ramcharger · #21 02-08-2010, 11:01 AM

ok thanks.

last thing just so i am crystal clear on this. with my reader . to do the proper tests when you say wire b to wire m are you wanting me to put the pos wire on one and the neg wire on the other to get a reading off of it?

or ground the meter to my battery post and use the pos end to get my reading.

just tell me to touch what to what to get a good reading. i apologize for making this harder then it has to be electrical just inst my strong suit.

slimvulcanrider · #22 02-08-2010, 11:27 AM

you place the negative lead on all of the First letter terminals, and the Positive lead on all the second set of terminals... this is also done with the R/R unplugged

so Terminal B to Terminal M would be - on B Terminal and + on M terminal
Terminal M to Terminal B would be - on M Terminal and + on B Terminal

skalding · #23 02-08-2010, 11:51 AM

Ram,

Measure those yellow wire AC readings again. Mine were chronically low (I rode for months like that) and eventually dipped below the point where the could charge the bike. Like 7AC at each leg. I tested each yellow wire to see if they grounded to the frame. They did. So I pulled the engine and removed the stator - sure enough, it was toasty and had exposed wires.

Slim-
There's been some debate about the brown wire. Do you know what happens if you A) unplug it entirely, or B) wire it directly to the positive terminal? More juice? Less?

ramcharger · #24 02-08-2010, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider

you place the negative lead on all of the First letter terminals, and the Positive lead on all the second set of terminals... this is also done with the R/R unplugged

so Terminal B to Terminal M would be - on B Terminal and + on M terminal
Terminal M to Terminal B would be - on M Terminal and + on B Terminal

ok slim thanks. ill try to get some new numbers up by tomorrow morning.

slimvulcanrider · #25 02-08-2010, 02:08 PM

for the stator.. you want to test all three leads... Yellow Wire 1 + Yellow wire 2 - Yellow Wire 1 + Yellow wire 3 - and Yellow wire 2 + and Yellow wire 3 - (all tests with the MM set to ~ (VAC)) these are with the bike running at idle, 2000 rpms and 3000-3500 rpms, bike warmed up for 15 to 20 minutes and with bike cold

Also when you test the R/R test with bike cold, then again after the bike has warmed up.

VN750Rider/Jerry · #26 02-08-2010, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider

FYI Jerry, the 1500 stator and the 750 R/R are the same PN... the reason for going to a 1500 R/R is the mounting location on them makes them less suspect to failure when getting a used one.

secondly the charging system on the VN750 doe not put out a constant 14.5 volts above idle. the out put varies from 12.5 at idle to 14.5V@ 3500-4000 RPM... and the voltage curves in between. That is why every time some one has charging system failure, we ask that we get voltage readings at idle, 1500 rpm, 2500, and 3000-3500 rpm... then we ask for the same tests with the engine warm... we haven't asked this yet, the OP already posted his symptoms in another thread that led us to believe that the R/R was toast. and Now with the R/R replaced he is having the same problems.

IIRC I was asking you to do some checks on your JB for me... I still think your root problem is a bad relay or diode inside your junction box... its a very unlikely chance that it is the JB, but I replaced the stator, R/R, and replaced my battery, only to still have a charging problem. I replaced the JB because my headlight wasn't coming on and doing the Head Light bypassed fixed the headlight problem. So I looked at the wiring diagram of the JB and realized that while doing the HL Bypass, it removes the relay from the HL... so I replaced the JB... and what do you know... my HL worked again...and all of a sudden my Bike is charging... (while working on the charging system, I did clean the contacts on the Jb and R/R several times to eliminate that as part of the problem...

I realize they are the same part number, and with most non internal engine parts, or any other part of the bike, used is probably just fine. You can usually look at a used mechanical part and tell if it is any good. But there is no way to verify an electrical part is good. I have found countless electrical and electronic parts that worked intermittently. I was suggesting that if it were me, I would go with a new part.

Also, I have never tested the electrical system on my bike, because I've never had any reason to. But if what you say is true, the Vulcan charging system is even worse than I thought. Jerry.

slimvulcanrider · #27 02-08-2010, 08:56 PM

Yes Jerry, this charging system is very simple... once you learn it... but it is also a very junky charging system... But then again, the charging system is just as junky as a 60's through late 70's ford truck running an external voltage regulator... its all the same kind of parts... just that the voltage regulator on an old for has breakers where the R/R has shunts, diodes, and resistors. Now if we could remove the R/R and replace it with a Voltage regulator like that of a Ford.. maybe we could eliminate so much stator failure... but who knows. .

VN750Rider/Jerry · #28 02-08-2010, 11:40 PM

The neat thing about my '66 Ford pickup with an external regulator, is that it is so easy to check, and the parts are dirt cheap. When I built the engine, I replaced everything, including an AutoZone rebuilt alternator, and new regulator. I also hooked up a volt meter, and get a constant 14.5 volts at any speed above idle. Even at idle it puts out 13.5 volts. I have a battery for a Ford Excursion V10. That was almost 5 years ago, and I have not had a single problem. If I needed it, I could go to a 200 amp alternator with an internal regulator, but so far I get all the power I need. Simplicity works. Jerry.

slimvulcanrider · #29 02-09-2010, 12:21 AM

Have you looked at your internally regulated alternator on the excursion? I bet you that the regulator is more of a head ache than the VN750 Charging system... also we are comparing apples to oranges... The only thing similar between an MC Stator and a cars Alternator is that they both produce electricity to supply electricity. the Alternator's job on a car is to keep the battery charge, and run run all the electronical stuff (i.e. lights, computer, radio, ignition system...ect.) while the job of the stator on an MC is to charge the battery...that's it...nothing more, nothing less... All electrical stuff on the bike is ran from the battery. that is why with a bad stator and a fully charged battery we can go several hundred miles before the battery dies.

pappa · #30 02-09-2010, 10:05 AM

Quote:

There's been some debate about the brown wire. Do you know what happens if you A) unplug it entirely, or B) wire it directly to the positive terminal? More juice? Less?

A: If the requlator is built smart, it won't charge at all. However, if it is built cheap, it will boil the battery.

B: Marginally less juice (a bit lower voltage at the battery).