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Carb Removal

28K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  Ceal 
#1 ·
What steps do you need to take to remove the carbs from the bike, so I can clean them. The bike had sat for 9 months with gas in it.
Thanks for the help.
 
#2 ·
Take off the gas tank, take off the air inlet boots and loosen the boots on the other end of the carbs but leave them attached to the cylinder inlets so you don't have trouble aligning them later... take off all the cables going to the carbs and then just twist and pull until you can get them out. Not exactly easy, especially the first time, but you'll get it if you're patient.
 
#5 ·
Take off the gas tank, take off the air inlet boots and loosen the boots on the other end of the carbs but leave them attached to the cylinder inlets so you don't have trouble aligning them later... take off all the cables going to the carbs and then just twist and pull until you can get them out. Not exactly easy, especially the first time, but you'll get it if you're patient.

X2 to trying to clean out with seafoam first. If you have to pull the carbs, remove the seat, tank, steering head side covers, neg cable on battery, and throttle cables.

According to the Clymer manual Ceal is partly right, the carb boot to the front cylinder stays on the cylinder, but the rear boot stays on the carb when the carbs come out. Apparently it is easier to realign when reinstalling the carb body.

Carbs have to come out the right side of the frame, and it is reported to be a fiddly project, especially the first time you do it.:boxing:

I have not had the pleasure yet myself.:D
 
#3 ·
If it will run, you might get by running some Sea Foam through it. You can drain the fuel from the carbs, refill with straight Sea Foam and let it sit for 24-48 hours (best option) or add 1/2 can of Sea Foam to a tank of fresh gas and run it till it's gone. Repeat as needed. Might save having to pull the carbs, which no one here describes as their favorite thing to do on the bike!
 
#4 ·
X2 on trying seafoam 1st. If it has been only 9 months they should clear up easily. I have seen bikes set for much longer then that and this fixes them right up.

You should also replace the oil and check the other fluids before running or riding it for a long stretch.
 
#8 ·
I jst pulled the cabs on mine to clean as the PO let it sit outside for almost a year with the gas cap open. It is easier to keep the rear boot on and take the front boot off with the carbs, it gives you the tiny bit of wiggle room you will need. when you go to reinstall the boots on the engine there are little notches on the boots and the intake ports on the cylinders to make sure they are aligned, and there is an F and a R for front and rear boots.
 
#13 ·
I've heard spraying WD-40 helps them slip on.
 
#16 ·
There should be a notch in the head right above the opening on the engine that the boots slide on to. On the boots there is a little piece of rubber sticking out, it almost looks like a left over piece from the factory molding, but it is the aligning notches.
 
#15 ·
LOL, the first time I took the carbs off of my bike I was tempted to light the whole damn thing on fire and make an insurance claim, since then I have removed them 4 more times and replaced them, it gets easier I promise. Helpful info, when you putting them on put some lube on the boots and also pull really hard on the air box and that will give you some extra room.
 
#17 ·
carb removal/ air inlet boots

I have a leak on the forward plunger.
Think something got stuck in there.
I tried blowing it out and everything.
The carb needs to come out and I probably need
a new o-ring or gasket. The air inlet boot on top of
the carb doesnt seem able to move much without
damaging something. I see the cables need detached
and the front boot. Do you think there is a new piece I can
get for the plunger if I remove the carb?
Is there another way to stop that leak?
 
#19 ·
What? You put it in your gas, it's an additive.
 
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