I tried to follow Fergie's excellent write up, but could not remove the axel nut. I took the cotterpin out and then spent the next couple of hours PTBlastering the thing, swearing, banging mallets on wrenches, and trying to use a length of PVC as a breaker bar. No dice.

I did see that when I was pushing on the nut with the wrench/bar set up, I was rotating the axel (i.e., the whole thing was turning slightly, but I couldn't get the nut to turn by itself.

If anyone has any suggestions, I'd appreciate it.

Have a friend hold the right side with a wrench while you turn the left. Don't use PVC as a breaker. Slide a 18" piece of 3/4 pipe over your breaker bar for torque and you'll break it free with little effort.

My bike is a 1993 and I just did mine this morning using this technique, but I held the right on my own and turned the left without much effort using the pipe as described.

I think you need a backup wrench on the bolt head and longer steel pipe for a cheater bar. It also sounds like you could use a helper holding the backup wrench. Good luck.

edit-looks like cliff sneaked in with the good ideas, between me reading and posting.

Thanks guys - I got a two foot steel pipe and that made all the difference. Turns out I used it on the four final drive nuts as well. Needless to say I was worried about what I'd find inside.

What I found was a pretty much perfect set of rear splines, covered in what looked liked dried tar. The front splines were bare (completely bare) but they looked perfectly intact.

Thanks guys - I got a two foot steel pipe and that made all the difference. Turns out I used it on the four final drive nuts as well. Needless to say I was worried about what I'd find inside.

What I found was a pretty much perfect set of rear splines, covered in what looked liked dried tar. The front splines were bare (completely bare) but they looked perfectly intact.

Glad to hear the cheater bar worked for you. It`s also good to hear that you got to the splines in time. Hope you can ride soon. :)

Good work! I have a piece of pipe in my tool box, have had for years, it has been a life saver.

And I chime in a day late and $.50 short. I had the same problem but have the air impact guns at my disposal. One could run down to a shop close by and have them "crack it loose" then tighten it back up at a slightly less torque and then reinsert the cotter pin for the trip home if not trailering it, I've done that for more than a few people.

Just a little note for those that do not have an extra set of hands around..
I put a loooooong wrench on one side so that the end would hold steady against the floor and then broke it free on the other side with a cheater bar.
The trick is to keep one side stationery so if you don't have a long enough wrench, your foot against a shorter one will work also.

Also as a reminder, the front splines do not have the movement that the rear splines do. A bit of moly up there goes a long way or a good spray of white lithium does the trick too.

As an additional note..
The black tar is close. If it is still gooey there is at least some lubricant left. When mine went out it had "cooked down" to a black sooty cake, totally dry.

Good to know what to possibly expect when I do this myself. I currently don't have the time or space to do this but fear for what will happen if I keep riding!

Good to know what to possibly expect when I do this myself. I currently don't have the time or space to do this but fear for what will happen if I keep riding!

You are Welcome to ride to Buford, I have the tools, lube, and a heated garage. You will have to supply the beer. :beerchug:

Sorry, but what is this thread about ???

Does anyone have pictures on that ???

Read the writeup in my sig about spline lube. Or, search the forum about spline lube and you can read all about it.