I recently inherited a vn750 that has sat for 2 years, I am in the process of restoring it. I cannot get it to start, not even a clicking noise from the starter button. At first I was thinking that a sensor was bad, but the clutch is hard to pull in, and when you sit on the bike, in first gear and pull in the clutch in it is hard to push roll, like the clutch isnt fully released, but if you upshift it is much easier to roll. Does this mean the clutch plate is stuck to first gear and explains the hard clutch pull?, as well as the bike not starting?

"Upshift and it gets easier to roll?" Sounds like it's going from first gear, to neutral.

Did you try to start it with the shifter in the "easy rolling" position? And with/without the clutch lever pulled? To start it in neutral you won't need to pull the clutch, but to start it in gear you will.

If the bike has been sitting there's a good chance the clutch cable is corroded/rusted; I'd check this first before going after the clutch.

When I say upshift I know im getting it in gear, 2nd,3rd,4th,5th roll fine with the clutch in, but in first it does not roll well with the clutch in, and of course, not at all if you dont have the clutch in. It wont try to start in any gear.

You have not told us anything that you have done. Have you checked the battery, do the indicator lights work, does the neutral light come on when you think it is rolling easier? Before trying to start the bike again, make sure the battery is fully charged and all your connections are clean and tight; battery to starter solinoid/relay, relay to starter, and the ground from negitive battery post to the frame.

For safetys sake put it up on the centerstand if you believe the clutch is stuck and will not disengage. YOU and the bike could have a short nasty ride if it starts in gear somehow, and the rear tire is on the ground. You could try the starter now to see if the electrics are working, but I would drain the fuel tank and carbs and fill with fresh gas before starting it. If it doesn`t start right away, or if it starts but continues to run rough after 20 or 30 minutes, try draining the carbs again and spraying them full of carb cleaner such as Gum Out 2 or 3 times and let them drain in between. Somebody gave detailed directions here for cleaning carbs a few days ago. OK, I found it, go to the carbs and fuel tech forum and find the one called *Carbs, need helpppp* posted by letitflight on Oct 16. Read it down to KM on post #7 then folow his link to general discussion forum to finish the thread. I see a couple of other posts here since I started, so some of this may be redundant.

When I say upshift I know im getting it in gear, 2nd,3rd,4th,5th roll fine with the clutch in, but in first it does not roll well with the clutch in, and of course, not at all if you dont have the clutch in. It wont try to start in any gear.

Mine does the same...but starts fine. you say you get no clicking... and what do you mean by "It won't even try to start in any gear."? Do I assume you mean it cranks over as long as you put the clutch in? If this is the case...have you checked for spark? Are you getting Fuel.

If the engine is not turning over at all. I would suggest looking for voltage at the starter solenoid. and check grounds.

I havent went through all of the electrical connections yet, wont have garage space for another week. Battery is brand new and charged, indicator lights work. turn signals and headlight would work if all the bulbs were there. Rear brake light functions. Neutral light comes on when in neutral.
When I say no clicking, etc, I mean when I try to start the bike, there is nothing, no noise or attempt to start at all. This is with the kick stand up, clutch in or out in all gears, both brakes on, engine run switch on. As I said I havent troubleshooted the wiring yet, today I realized when I attempt to sound the horn there is a second delay before the horns weakly sound off, this makes me suspect a ground problem. Would low voltage allow the horn to squeak and the starter to do nothing at all?
As far as the clutch it is hard to pull in, but when pulled in and in first gear it is hard to roll, like the clutch is sticking, but when I upshift into 234 or 5 it rolls fine, I know nothing about motorcycle transmission wet clutches, could the clutch plate be stuck to 1st gear? Creating the hard roll when in 1st? If the clutch is out, the bike doesnt roll in any gear as it should.

Thanks to all who are helping a newbie!

Derek

I would test to see if you have voltage at the starter relay/ solenoid. If no power, then you have a broken wire between the battery and solenoid. If there is power thus far, then check the starter solenoid by jumping the two main posts. starter should engage...If starter still fails to engage then remove the starter and bench test the starter. if starter tests out good, you have a broken wire between the solenoid and the starter...check that wire for continuity. If you have continuity then you have a short to ground somewhere or a loos connection on the battery ground.

I recently inherited a vn750 that has sat for 2 years, I am in the process of restoring it. I cannot get it to start, not even a clicking noise from the starter button. At first I was thinking that a sensor was bad, but the clutch is hard to pull in, and when you sit on the bike, in first gear and pull in the clutch in it is hard to push roll, like the clutch isnt fully released, but if you upshift it is much easier to roll. Does this mean the clutch plate is stuck to first gear and explains the hard clutch pull?, as well as the bike not starting?

OK here in the first post you say pushing the starter button does nothing. There is no click from the starter solenoid, so either there is no power in the circuit from the button to the solenoid or the solenoid is bad. Some here have reported that the wires coming out of the switches on the handlebars can pull loose and cause a no start condition. Check those wires, wiggle them around to see if they are loose and push them back in firmly, then try to start. If the relay still does not click, pull off the white plastic connector and use test a light or voltmeter to check the red and yellow (+) wire for continuity up to the starter button when it is pushed. If there is no continuity you will have to follow the whole circuit to find the break.

If there is power to the relay, then test it. With the connector still off, run two jumper wires directly from the battery to the pos & neg male connectors on the relay. If the relay is good it should click and the starter should crank over now.

P.S. slimvr posted some more tests for you between when I started and posted. If the connections on the starter cable are clean and tight at both ends, the last test I suggest here could save you the time of taking the starter motor off to bench test.

i had the same problem with mine, i don't know why sometimes was starting fine and sometimes nothing not even a click like yours. so i decided to take everything apart, the ignition, the wire connectors, the junction box, even the starter and i gave everything a good cleaning. so far it's working like a charm. one thing i notice when i took the starter apart was that there was no more insulated washer in the positive bolt so that would explain why one day i saw smoke coming from there i guess the bolt was touching the body, make sure you have all your connections clean and tight. just my 2 cents

Nobody addressed you clutch problem all the way. The cable could be bad and frayed inside the casing some place. But as for the bike to be hard to roll in first and easy in 2-3-4-5th gear. The clutch does not grab just the first gear and then second and on to the rest. The clutch would be engaged when the lever is released no mater what gear you are in. The clutch drives the gear box no mater what gear you are in. There is not clutch plates for each gear. I have know Idea what is going on, but bike should be hard to roll no mater what gear you are in if the clutch was sticking.

Nobody addressed you clutch problem all the way. The cable could be bad and frayed inside the casing some place. But as for the bike to be hard to roll in first and easy in 2-3-4-5th gear. The clutch does not grab just the first gear and then second and on to the rest. The clutch would be engaged when the lever is released no mater what gear you are in. The clutch drives the gear box no mater what gear you are in. There is not clutch plates for each gear. I have know Idea what is going on, but bike should be hard to roll no mater what gear you are in if the clutch was sticking.
You`re right in everything you say about the clutch, weh44att. :smiley_thI think we are all more concerned initially, with getting the engine started and running right. Then he can determine whether the sticky clutch lever function is a rusty and binding cable or the clutch discs themselves. Stay in touch, your input may be needed again.:rockon:

That is how I thought the Tranny worked, I assume then the cable is bad and stretched enough that the grab is only noticable in first, since 2nd,3,4,5 are taller is would take longer for the compression to be felt. When I rolled the bike back and forth it was only a few inches, you obviously feel the grab instantly in first, tomorrow I will double check that I can feel resistance in the other gears, I didnt get crazy with it, theres only so much staring one can take rolling back and forth on a bike and not actually riding it.

Firts I would try and concentrate on getting the bike to start in "N". Then and only then worry about the clutch issue. You want the engine running before you might have to pull it...therefore having made sure it starts again upon reassembly.

If you are actually able to shift into 2nd and above while the bike is stationary, you also have transmission problems. The Positive Neutral Finder shouldn't allow the trans to shift into the higher gears while the bike is stationary.

If the clutch is hard to pull, it shouldn't matter what gear it's in as the clutch doesn't depend on the gears to work, it simply disconnects the engine from the tranny. It sounds like the cable may be corroded or the release mechanism may be partially frozen but the resistance should be the same across all shifts.

I should clarify then on the transmission, I can sucessfully shift into higher gears if I roll the bike forward a little. You are correct, from first, you cannot upshift to any gear other than neutral without moving the bike forward.

you ever get the bike started yet?
IF not...concentrate on getting it running in Neutral...I think your clutch safety switch is messed up....but being in neutral would bypass that problem. so then you would be able to go further down the road of TS Procedures.

You have 12.5-13 Volts @ Battery.
You have 12.5-13 Volts @ Starter Relay
You have 0 Ohms through Start Switch with Button Depressed
You have 12-13 Volts out of Starter Relay with Button Depressed

here is a good schematic of the start system that I made using the Clymer Manual

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/StartingSystemWiringDiagram-1.jpg

Check Fallow all of those wires and make sure all wires have a good connection. Also check your main fuse.

Here are some other usefull diagrams to help you narrow down your problems....
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/DiodeInspection.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/FanStarterRelayHeadlightRelayInspec.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/FuseCircuitInspection.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/JBBreakdown.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/JunctionBoxwiring-1.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/Switches.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/WiringSchematic.jpg

I still think you need to go through all of these to determine that the bike will run b4 moving on to the Clutch issue...the clutch issue is NOT!!! related to your starting issue.
If you are so worried about the clutch... tear it apart..make sure everything is in speck, readjust the clutch to specs, then worry about the starting issue...but I think you will have thrown good money at a problem that isn't there....My bike is harder to roll in 1st gear than the rest of the gears with the clutch lever pulled...it is just the nature of the beast.

so please man, check all of this stuff then post back with results on the running part...after it runs and if the clutch doesn't engage right, It will become an easy fix...but without the bike running you can't tell if the clutch is 100% adjusted.

I second everything SVR said.

Firts I would try and concentrate on getting the bike to start in "N". Then and only then worry about the clutch issue. You want the engine running before you might have to pull it...therefore having made sure it starts again upon reassembly.

I`m with slimvr on this dastone. Don`t worry about the clutch or tranny until you can get the engine to start with the transmission in Neutral. Then you will be able to figure out if the clutch cable is worn out or not. It will also be easier to figure out what the tranny is doing.:smiley_th Good Luck.

I

If you are confused with any of my charts or not sure what to do feel free to pm me...I will gt back to you as soon as I can...I answer all my emails every night after I get off work. electrical problems are my specialty...

Ill try to find my multi meter tonight, Im not a pro at electrical stuff. I got the bike in the garage pulled the battery to charge it, checked all of the fuses in the fuse block, they were good. With the battery completley out of the bike I pulled the boot off of the electrical connector on the front of the starter, connected that terminal to the positive on my jump start box, and connected the negative to the frame next to the starter. I turned the power on(12v), and I heard a single click not sure where it came from. And I could not get it to happen again. I did not unhook the starter motor when I did this. Shouldnt the starter have cranked at this point? After my failed experminet I got about half of the electrical connections cleaned and applied dialectric grease. I cleaned the battery terminal wire connections and unattatched the ground to the frame and cleaned this also.

yes you jumped the bike correctly...cheack the main power fuse...you might have blown it. What I noramly do to jump my bike is take the ground of the jumper wires to the ground next to the starter relay and then take the posative jumper lead to the output side of the starter relay (key on, just touching the + cable to the post) if this does not work for any reason....any reason what so ever...pull the starter and bench test the starter.

The 30Amp fuse inside the fuse block is the main right? The starter relay is right behind the battery box correct? I assume jumping it there bypasses all of the safety and ignition crap right? Thanks again for all the help. Ive been itching to ride since I learned on the MSF's Suzuki 250 fleet. The custom CBR600RR i got to ride on july4th didnt help either. This motorcycle endorsement is burning a hole in my pocket!!

to all your question the answer is yes

If you have to pull the starter don't forget to drain the oil, or you will have one hell of a mess! :beerchug:

If you have to pull the starter don't forget to drain the oil, or you will have one hell of a mess! :beerchug:

:smiley_th:smiley_th:rockon:

any updates on this no start issue?

Garage got taken over by a long process leading up to my daughters 1st birthday. The bike got its home back last night, thankfully, for we got 2 inches of snow. Ive got all of the covers off of it and the seat. If it wont try to start installed Ill drain the oil and bench test the starter. An oil change is on my long list anyway. If I isolate the main prob as the starter, Ill replace that(best place to get one?), fix and line the gas tank, and finalize all of the rust and paint repair, replace the clutch and choke cables, and get new rubber in time for the new riding season.

I jumped it with the ground next to the starter relay and theoutput side of the starter relay. SHE CRANKED OVER! A little slower perhaps than id like, but it wasnt the greatest connection. So the expensive part works, im about to pull apart the rest of the electrical connections I havent cleaned and applied dialectric grease to(mostly on the relay side of the bike. I noticed that that ground is rather rusty, ill clean that too. If it isnt a connection I assume a broken wire or bad something? The relay works if I can jump from it. Anyways back to the garage.. thanks alot

The relay works if I can jump from it Not nessesarlily true...all you found out was that the starter works and that you are getting power to the relay. take your multimeter set to volts and check for voltage coming to the secondary post on the relay as you bump the starter button. if no voltage then check to make sure you are getting 12 volts to the starter button. and check continuity of the starter button. But I am thinking it is either a bad ground or bad relay.

What`s the good word dastone, did you get this beast started yet?

I dont know enough about electrical systems to do all the diagnostic work. I was messing with the start button to see if that was the problem, and I kinda messed it up. The throttle is a little iffy so I think Ill replace the whole unit, likely off of ebay. Theres a nice little performance shop a mile from my house owned by an AMI mechanic. Ill likely cave in and just replace all the broken parts and pay him to diagnose the electrical and put the new tires on. There is a large amount of replacement parts on ebay for the Vulcan, how new can I go without running into changes? Id rather get a 2000 or above gas tank versus lining my 21 year old tank, etc.

You'll need to watch what parts you get for the throttle assembly, as older ('85-'90) Vulcan's had rectangular master cylinders, and I believe the brake lever was different. But then again, if replacing the entire thing, any one should work.

Wiring harness will be different to, as the first couple years ('85-'88) had auto cancelling turnsignals.

'88- up fuel tanks are different in that they can only be closed with the key.

Most everything else should be compatible.

You'll need to watch what parts you get for the throttle assembly, as older ('85-'90) Vulcan's had rectangular master cylinders, and I believe the brake lever was different. But then again, if replacing the entire thing, any one should work.

Wiring harness will be different to, as the first couple years ('85-'88) had auto cancelling turnsignals.

'88- up fuel tanks are different in that they can only be closed with the key.

Most everything else should be compatible.

The throttle assembly is totaly seperate from the master cylinder, you do not have to touch it when replacing the throttle assembly. Throttle assemblies are the same 85-06. :beerchug:

The throttle assembly is totaly seperate from the master cylinder, you do not have to touch it when replacing the throttle assembly. Throttle assemblies are the same 85-06. :beerchug:


:doh: That's right. I knew the master cylinder was different, but was thinking of the throttle assembly with attached master cylinder that's on my dirtbike :doh:
Hey, atleast they're both Kaw's!! LOL