When my 2003 is cold the clutch is very touchy; when going from a dead stop in first gear I occasionally forget and let it out just a little too much -- it chatters real fast, almost like a whine, and it can kill the engine. From there on shifting is fine though. Once the bike warms up, the clutch is nice and smooth even from a dead stop.

Anybody else have this issue?

You have the dreaded "coffee grinder' noise coming from the clutch. You have 4 choices in dealing with it.
1. It is not harmful so you can just live with it.
2. Some people get relief by squeezing and releasing the clutch about a dozen times or so before taking off the first time.
3. Most report that they don't have the problem if they keep the bike on the center stand vice the side stand.
4. There is a mod for the clutch casing that entails drilling a spiral series of 1/16" holes allowing the oil to better drain when cold and stop the clutch plates from sticking.
Again, the noise is more disturbing than anything.

Switch to 20-50 full synthetic M/C oil, worked for me, no more chatter.

DT

You hit on the answer on your report of the problem..
Let the bike warm up
Then squeeze the clutch lever a half dozen times or so, This frees up the clutch plates.
Costs.. nothing and while you are letting it warm up, it's a good time to do a walk around to check out the bike and finish putting your gear on.

dang youse guys are great...

The suggestion about heating up the clutch plates was kind of OK but does not work well if the engine is really cold. However I did follow the advice to use full-synthetic oil (reluctantly at $6.50/qt) and the bike runs better, shifts easier, and the chattering clutch is almost (not totally though) nonexistent.

Except that I sued 10w-40 synthetic, not 20w-50.

used, not sued....

I get automotive full synthetic at a little over $4/qt. Shell Rotella and Mobil 1 are both good.

I totally agree with Dianna on this one. Let it warm up. Not only will it solve the clutch problem, but it will make your engine last longer. If you don't believe that one, ask an aircraft mechanic. Oil, as long as it is at least 10w40 shouldn't make a difference. I use 20w50 synthetic, though I have used a number of brands of both synthetic and non synthetic, all 20w50, and it made no difference. I do not recommend using any oil lighter than 10w40, as it will not provide sufficient protection for your engine. Jerry.

I get automotive full synthetic at a little over $4/qt. Shell Rotella and Mobil 1 are both good.


I was once told that you need to be careful when using regular automotive oils. Particularly that you need to make sure to not get one with any cleansers in it. Is this true of the VN750 as well? or perhaps just something to watch out with air cooled engines? This advise had been given to me about my Rebel 250...

Stay away from any oil that says "energy conserving" it has friction modifiers and will cause clutch problems, usualy 10w-30. :beerchug:

I was once told that you need to be careful when using regular automotive oils. Particularly that you need to make sure to not get one with any cleansers in it. Is this true of the VN750 as well? or perhaps just something to watch out with air cooled engines? This advise had been given to me about my Rebel 250...

See lance's post below.

Stay away from any oil that says "energy conserving" it has friction modifiers and will cause clutch problems, usualy 10w-30. :beerchug:

Yep, screwed my Rebel's clutch up with energy conserving oil. :drool: Look in the circle logo on the back of the container. If it says energy conserving there, don't put it in any bike with a wet clutch (which most have!). If it's not there, you should be fine.

I personally would not use "energy conserving" oil in any engine. It is as thin as water, and does not provide the film strength to protect the bearings. Plus, it has "friction modifiers" in it that will damage a wet clutch. Again, I do not recommend any oil with a viscosity less than 10w40 for any car or motorcycle engine. I use 20w50, and if you live where the temperature is high enough to safely use it, I recommend doing so. Aside from that, it is fine to use any decent car oil in a motorcycle, either synthetic or non synthetic. There are good reasons for using either, depending on the situation. After using the right oil, the next most important thing is to change it often. Again, "often" varies. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 20w50 motorcycle specific oil in my Vulcan 750, and change it every 3,000 miles. I use Walmart Supertech oil (which BTW, meets all new car manufacturers warranty requirements) in my dirt bike, and change it after every day of riding. Stay away from "energy conserving" oil and oils lighter than 10w40, and you will be fine. Jerry.

OK, thanks guys for the clarification.