Now I'm beginning to think I wasted my money guys,I tried to take the bike out after replacing thechoke cable and coastering. and for some reson the tranny would not engage. i put it in first, released the clutch ,tach climed bike didnt move. so I kept shifting it up and down to get any thing from tranny after about five mins. of this I heard a clunk and now first engages, but I have to reach down with my hand and really pull up on shifter to get a higher gear, I'm really gettin frustated here any suggestions:doh:

What happens when you have the bike in gear and the clutch lever held in? I'm thinking that it's possible when you replaced the choke cable that you accidentally "adjusted" the clutch cable a smidge. If the bike tries to move on you under the above conditions, i.e., it creeps forward, then that's an indication that there is too much slack in the cable. If you're having trouble getting the bike into any gear, then there's too much tension on the cable.

Start with that - it was working before you replaced teh choke cable, right?

Yea it was working fine

Yea it was working fine

Then it's probably something straightforward. Don't panic!! Yet. :beerchug:

First thing I'd do is check that the shift lever is tight on the shift shaft.

I agree. It is either that the shifter is spinning on the shaft or the clutch cable is not adjusted correctly or the clutch release lever is spinning on the shaft. Check that while you were installing the new choke cable that something didn't go wrong with the clutch cable. check for freeplay and adjust as need. Follow the clutch cable down to where it attached to the release lever. Watch this area as you pull the clutch in. The release lever should be pulled by the cable. There should be very little play in the cable or at the clutch lever on the handlebars, but the cable shouldn't be so tight as to keep the release lever pulled at all.
If all this checks out, make sure the gap in the release lever is aligned with the rib that is cast into the casing. The gap I'm talking about is the one you can see looking straight on at the bike on the outside of the clutch release lever. The cast I'm talking about is directly above this. I'm attaching a pic to help show what I'm talking about
Hope this helps.
Bobby
773

I 've checked all that twice, the bike was shifting but now I think the whole clutch Assembly is gone or the tranny went, as I was warming it up to check a reoccurring electrical short I heard a loud clunk and now there is a bunch of noise coming from the right side. So whether I wanted to or not the motor comes out!!!

The clunk bothers me..
Is it just a single clunk or a series of clunks, and are you sure it's coming from the right side or possible from the swingarm/driveshaft area?
Having a tranny go out is very rare and I know of one owner that thought theirs went out, did the teardown, replaced the tranny and then found out their final drive was toast.

Check the rear splines first. The clunk may have been the sound of the splines letting go.
The other thing I would check is the shift pawl under the oil sight glass. It may be worn to the point where it won't move the shift drum.
As long as the shift lever is not flopping around, it's not the connecting rod that connects the shift lever to the pawl. The rest of the tranny is really pretty robust. It takes quite a bit of force to bend or break a shift dog or do damage to the gears.

it was a single clunk, and then all kinds of noise, I started to take the rear tire off today so should find out more in the next couple of days.

Well , update folks I have every thing loose ready to pull rear tire and low a behold garage has dirt floor, center stand sunk 2 inches. Now have to get help so I can jack the bike up to put bricks under the stand...Starting to believe I am not supposed to ride this year. LOL

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/Korr_2008/finaldrive004.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/Korr_2008/finaldrive001.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/Korr_2008/finaldrive002.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh122/Korr_2008/finaldrive001.jpg
I hope someone can see these well enough to tell me if its good or bad this is my first shaft drive bike

The drive shaft itself looks OK but I can't tell whether the final drive is OK because the pics won't enlarge enough to see detail.
I can also tell you from the large pic of the drive shaft that you don't have any lube in there at all which is bad. With no lube, chances are it's the final drive. It is cheaper to get a used one on ebay or from the folks here than to buy a new one ($1000) or so. Check Fergy's pics of his bad final drive verses his replacement and that may help you decide whether your final drive is good or not.
The link to Fergy's write up is http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/writeups/final_drive.html

There was lube I wiped it off to take pics, although there wasn't alot of lube on it There wasn't any debris or grit on them I'll check the pics though Thanks

does the shifter move in and out of the motor.... like the shaft that comes out of the engine? mine moves in and out bc i was idiotic and it tapped it w/ a hammer, now sometimes it wont shift

No, no it doesn't move in or out. I looked at the pics and the splines aren't bad, im beginning to believe its the clutch basket or in that gereral area,next on my agenda to check

Hope you followed Fergy's how to and lubed those splines while you had them apart. It will save you grief later.

Its still apart and I'm buying Honda Moly 60 monday, and 90wt synthetic gear oil It will be Lubed properly this time!!!

Just thinkin' guys is it possible the rear ACCT spring broke and the noise I'm
hearing is cam chain???

This is it guys, I finally got rear end back together and took clutch cover off and pulled plates. first problem,easy fix, NO gasket just silicone(NOT RTV)
My question How much friction material is on new plates? mine have roughly less than 1/32 , second I had to use a flat screwdriver to pry last steel and friction disc with almost enough force to bend them, is this normal???

Just thinkin' guys is it possible the rear ACCT spring broke and the noise I'm
hearing is cam chain???

That's possible. A loose cam chain can make quite a lot of noise.
Did you try the "Screwdriver as a Stethescope" trick to pinpoint where the noise was coming from?

As for the clutch...
Friction plate thickness is 2.9 - 3.1 mm or .114" - .122"
And I wouldn't think it's normal to have to force the plates off. What year is the bike?

Its an 89

Being that old, I could believe that things might stick a bit.

Went back out , measured the friction disc from entire disc from friction pad to friction pad mm also noticed the last disc that was stuck is broken No I didn't hear the noise again Because the bike stalled and I still haven't been able to start it. So I'm ordering EBC clutch plates and springs Fri. And then After I reinstall them I'll get my stethoscope from work and check then

Update folks, talked to someone at work that knows PO of my 89,
Told him I am replacing clutches and he told me that it didn't surprise him because the PO replaced clutches with plates from a boneyard!!!

LOVELY!!! lol...Gaskets too?

Gotta love some of those PO's...sounds like your's and mine were neighbors.

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7566/failyd9.jpg

No he didn't use a gasket just clear silicone, And if there not neighbors there probably related!!!!!!:BLAM:

thanks