I recently got my hands on a used shoei full face helmet that is very comfortable, but the paint is pretty worn and could use a spruce up job. Anybody have any luck painting their helmets? Recomendations on type of paint, enamel or lacquer?

I definitely don't want to do anything that could compromise the integrity of the helmet so any ideas would be appreciated.

Sorry, no info on painting, but I would be a little concerned about the integrity of a helmet that has been around long enough and used enough that the paint is worn out.

Harvey,

I don't know about "M" designated helmets, but I use an "SA" rated F/G helmet for PCA track events, and had previously asked about painting it, and was told by the manufacturer (Bell) that it would compromise the integrity of the shell. I would contact Shoei and ask them.

From the Shoei site FAQ"S:

Can I paintbrush my Shoei helmet?

It is possible to repaint your Shoei helmet. You can use any colours which are not Nitro based. Please make sure that no aggressive fumes will enter the inside of the helmet.
You can also attach stickers to your helmet. They do not have any influence on the shell material.


_OK, not sure what a "Nitro" based paint is, but so understand about fumes harming the liner material.
So tape it off REAL good so no fumes can enter. Use any automotive paint and clearcoat.

I do agree with Joem about the age of the helmet...Shoei helmets usualy have realy good paint, so to think of one that has got that worn makes me worry about how old it is...or how poorly it was treated...


OH, and you might want to pick this up :
http://tinyurl.com/youx9r



KM

I wish I had thought about this some years ago while I was working in a body shop and painting helmets after hours. With that said, I didn't have any problems with any of the ones I painted with typical base/clear automotive urethane, but then I also don't recall any of them being "tested" afterwards. I do have the one around that I painted for the boy when he was younger and it has been banging around the garage for a while but still seems very intact, but once again, no head inside. Maybe this helps, maybe not, but the paint always stuck quite well and made some old helmets look new.

Thanks for the link Knifemaker.

It's not beat up or dented, just that there are a few scratches and it's not as shiny as I imagine it once was. Maybe that adds some character to a classic black helmet, but this is one is blue with wacky lightning bolts all over it.

Back in my high school days, I painted bikes and helmets for extra cash. Bell has never condoned painting their helmets - guess they want you to spend the big bucks on over the counter custom jobs.

Anyway, I painted my Shoei 3/4 face last summer with rattle can enamel. I primed, base coated, satin silver flaked and top coated. Looks way better than scratched gloss black.

Fumes were not a problem and there was no evidence of any of the helmet material degrading. lacquer is way too strong of solvent to use on or near any plastic or foam material.

Have fun with it!

DT

Low V.O.C. paint might work for the helmet but any solvent could soften the outer shell and the fumes could ruin the foam lining. At a minimium the remove the liner if possible or tape and seal the outer edges to keep fumes out. Without testing there is no way you can tell whether or not degradation has been done. Me --the reason I wear a helmet is to keep what few marbles I have. I'll live with a few scratches to keep my helmet safe.

FYI:

Nitro-cellulose-based paint - also known as Piroxylin - was a material that was developed in the 1920s specifically to use for cars and other machinery. It's very very fast drying, it's a very glossy surface at the end. And this nitro-cellulose paint when it was first introduced incredibly speeded up times of manufacture - it allowed a car to dry in 30 minutes as opposed to several days.

FYI:

Nitro-cellulose-based paint - also known as Piroxylin - was a material that was developed in the 1920s specifically to use for cars and other machinery. It's very very fast drying, it's a very glossy surface at the end. And this nitro-cellulose paint when it was first introduced incredibly speeded up times of manufacture - it allowed a car to dry in 30 minutes as opposed to several days.

Ah..then strike what I said about using automotive paint unless your sure of its makeup.

The safesst route here is as stated, contact the maker and ask if and what paints can be used.

KM

Nitro is a solvent evaporation cure paint as opposed to poly that is a chemical reaction paint. The easiest way to tell is if you use thinner or reducer with no catylist it is solvent evaporative. Most paints that use 2 parts IE base/catylist cure by chemical reaction and give off different/lower fumes when curing.