Updated ver (10/01) of my Y!Group post....

Hi John, and the rest -
After browsing some more, I see several posts regarding stators. Is this an issue on these bikes? How long do these typically last? I also understand that you have to remove the engine to replace it...?

Thanks
Jaime

Hi John, and the rest -
After browsing some more, I see several posts regarding stators. Is this an issue on these bikes? How long do these typically last? I also understand that you have to remove the engine to replace it...?

Thanks
Jaime

Jaime...This is a potential problem. Don't think there are actual statistics, but from being here, VROC and on the Y! group, a fair amount of us have gone thru it.
You don't have to completely remove the engine from the frame, but disconnect a lot of stuff from it.
Go thru the Notes, and either post here or email me w/ any Qs....

Well thank you John - I hope I don't have to do this for a very long time as my bike is a brand new 2004 and I hope warrantly will cover it for a long time as I have an extended warranty.

By the way - I see may references to VROC - what is VROC?

Thanks - Jaime

Well thank you John - I hope I don't have to do this for a very long time as my bike is a brand new 2004 and I hope warrantly will cover it for a long time as I have an extended warranty.

By the way - I see may references to VROC - what is VROC?

Thanks - Jaime
Vulcan
Riders and
Owners
Club

Thanks John - So is this forum considered the VROC, or is that another group? If its another grouop, where is is, how do you join, etc., etc...

Jaime

VROC is a different group. Though many of us belong to it since we are Vulcan Rider and Owners. Some refer to it as the main board since we are sort of an off-spring. VN750 was formed to address the specific issues etc for our bikes. VROC is for ALL Vulcans..
It is found at http://vroc.org/dbva/index.html

Hi Guys & Gals:
Chalk up one more stator replacement. This one in Paris, Kentucky. All the replacement notes here and on the Yahoo Group were great help. In fact I'm not sure I could have done it without you. All went quite well. I used my digital camera when I could to verify cable routing & such. I used my flat bed scanner to make gaskets for the alternator housing & bevel gear housing. She (Leapin' Lena) is full of coolant and oil awaiting the first start. Need to solder in the three 15A fuses....and she's ready to go. I'll run her on a bottle first (tank not on) to get the coolant bubbles out of the system. Some of my pictures can be seen here..... http//photos.yahoo.com/allangordon40/
Thanks a bunch,

Allan (Flash) Gordon

Need the little : in your link Allan
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/allangordon40/
Since mt stator replacement the voltmeter has been reading healthy. I also replaced the inner stator cover with the one from TOC Manufacturing so when it come time to do it again.. 20,000-50,000 miles down the road hopefully. I will only have to pull the outer cover
http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/Side_Cover_mod.htm

Thanks Dianna....I never will get that picture thing straight !

..snip.. I also replaced the inner stator cover with the one from TOC Manufacturing so when it come time to do it again.. 20,000-50,000 miles down the road hopefully. I will only have to pull the outer cover
http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/Side_Cover_mod.htm
Well I just put my bike up for winter or the next three months whichever is shorter...;-). I have 15,100 miles on my electrex stator using the TOC cover, so it is working just fine. FYI the OEM stator went at 10,700 miles.

I'm new to the site and to riding. I have just purchased a '99 750 with 1,900 miles on it. Since on the site I'v read alot of comments about failed
STATORS. What is this part? What does it do and why does it fail? Is there anything to do prior to it failing to prevent it? Should it be replaced at a certain milage? What's up with this thing. PLease give me the scoop. I have a Clymer repair manual and I'm having trouble finding it in the book. Please help with some info:confused: . Thanks

Jeff

The Stator is like a altornator for a car, There is no real way to prevent one from going and no set milage for a fail. You can help by not overloading the electrical system, moving the R/R to a cooler spot and replacing the BAtt with a MAint free one.
Good Idea to check and keep clean all the electrical connections

I'm new to the site and to riding. I have just purchased a '99 750 with 1,900 miles on it. Since on the site I'v read alot of comments about failed
STATORS. What is this part? What does it do and why does it fail? Is there anything to do prior to it failing to prevent it? Should it be replaced at a certain milage? What's up with this thing. PLease give me the scoop. I have a Clymer repair manual and I'm having trouble finding it in the book. Please help with some info:confused: . Thanks

Jeff

Jeff -

Clymer's refers to it as the alternator.

Get a AGM, maintenance free battery ASAP if you don't already have one.

Get a voltmeter connected to the battery terminals. Should read about 13Vdc at idle, and go up to at least 14 Vdc by 3 - 4K rpm. If not, there is a charging system probelm somewhere.

But battery first and voltmeter first.

Jon

It's hiding under the left engine side cover, which you can't remove without unbolting the engine and tilting it to the right.

Aside from what Chad said about prolong it's life, keep your oil clean and full, as your oil is all it gets to cool with, maintain your cooling system, don't let your bike overheat and try to avoid a lot of hot weather bumper to bumper slow traffic. Heat kills the stator.

Thanks guys...BIG help. I'll look into all the suggestions.

Allan, great post.
Pictures very helpful.
Why did you tie down the forks and center stand?
Can't figure that one out.
Thanks again.
Stewart

Why did you tie down the forks and center stand?
Can't figure that one out.
Thanks again.
Stewart

That's to make sure there is NO chance of the bike coming down off the centerstand.
The rope is through the front wheel, then around the centerstand, basically locking it in the down position.

Lots of good info here. I need to replace the stator on my 93 VN750. I have Clymer's book and data from here, but no garage :-( so i'm a little weary of taking my bike apart outside. But I can't afford to pay the $900 estimate I got for Parts & Labor.

I hear you there, that is a pretty steep price to pay for a repair that can be done by yourself easily enough as long as you take your time and DON'T rush it. What I would suggest for the "no garage" problem is go online to a site like craigslist.com for your area and look for one of those Costco garages thingy's. They are cheap enough at costco already but a used one would be even cheaper I am guessing. keep it covered and closed to deter any unwanted critters. Just my 2 cents worth.

How come my stator wont burn out?

my vn 750 from 1988 has run out on the highway, with a brand new batt; no electrical function, even the gps switcht to internal batt. i checked the fuses, teh wires and the att. on the battery, all seems ok (i coud not mesure, but i think the batt was completely draind.) Is the alternator dead?

AJCruzin just replaced the stator, rectifier & battery on my VN. He can give some good tips on this matter. The bike rocks now.

I have an 86, but I've had to replace my stator 4 different times (I bought the bike 10 years ago and the bike only has 38,000 miles on it).

did the stator problem ever get resolved on the later years bikes ?

did the stator problem ever get resolved on the later years bikes ?
I don't think so... I have an 06 and for the first time on a motor vehicle I took out the extended warranty till 2011 I think... My dealer did me right on it I think, I paid for 2yrs. and he paid the difference to 4yrs...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

can an extended warranty be bought for let's say a 2004 ?

Thanks

How come my stator wont burn out?

how many miled do you have on it?:confused:

can an extended warranty be bought for let's say a 2004 ?Thanks
I think you have to buy the extended warranty before your Orig. 12 mo. warranty expires...:(...
Have a good one...Old Dog...

oops, I meant a warranty that is offered after the original expires, sort of what they do with cars.

Thanks

I haven't posted in a while, but here I am again. I got an 85' VN 700. Her appearence is virtually flawless. She runs out great. With gas prices like they are, 50 mpg is just what the doctor ordered. All that being said, I'm about to embark on stator replacement number three (over 5 yrs, 25k miles). I see the links for the stator cover mod ($450), not sure if that's any cheaper than having it done at a shop. Has anyone noticed that the frame split on the right side of the bike would be much more useful on the left?
I'm glad to see methods tested that don't involve complete removal of the engine, but this is still a big undertaking. I remember a Post by Beavis that showed an electrical mod to reduce or eliminate Rf noise from the cooling fan. I wonder how that panned out. I guess I'm just disgusted with having no problems out of this bike for 6 yrs eccept for the staor failure every so often. I'm can't bring myself to sell her, but I'm tired what seems to be patching her until she fails again.

....All that being said, I'm about to embark on stator replacement number three (over 5 yrs, 25k miles). I see the links for the stator cover mod ($450), not sure if that's any cheaper than having it done at a shop. Has anyone noticed that the frame split on the right side of the bike would be much more useful on the left?.
....I remember a Post by Beavis that showed an electrical mod to reduce or eliminate Rf noise from the cooling fan. I wonder how that panned out....

Bummer about yet another stator change you need to do. Have you checked it yourself, or do you have the shop do it? Have you checked and/or replaced the R/R?

As for the stator cover mod from TOC, sure woulda been useful to you to have bought it with your first stator change, but who'd think they'd need to do the stator twice, let alone 3 time??!!

Don't know what ever came of Beavis's mod. Are you a member of the Yahoo group? He's over there more than here.

Wish ya luck on whatever ya do with this stator replacement :beerchug:


Oh, and as for the left frame rail being like the right one. Yep, it sure would be MUCH more useful that way.
I almost cut & welded in a piece off a donor frame to make the left side removable, but never did.
There is a couple people who have done it. One being Edalbris, who has a bunch of pics in the gallery of how he did it.

I have now been sidelined by the stator going out on my 86 vulcan. I have plans to replace the stator during the thanksgiving break. Other then having to order the stator, is there any other gaskets or parts that i should order in advance? I am planning on having the repair complete in 3 days.

Replaced the stator on my 2005 this past week. Not the easiest of jobs, but found the Clymer's manual to be the best help to me.

I used the ElectroSport stator which appears to be far superior to the original Kawi part.

Bike runs great now and has plenty of "juice" to run the electrical system.

UPDATE:
Damn Electrosport stator failed after 2 months! Replaced the RR and ordered new stator from RM Stator in Quebec. Electrosport is undergoing ownership change and can't supply right now. PITA! Wouldn't use one of theirs again anyway. My dealer has arranged for a refund from their distributor however, so at least I get my money back towards the new unit.

Ok so i am still new to this forum. I have been reading up on the STATOR issue.
I have a few questions, and forgive me if they have already been answered in other threads.

1. Is there a How to or pics/documentation on replacing the stator?
2. Can i get more info on this stator cover mod?
3. What is this R/R that i keep reading about, and what/where do i need to relocate it to?

I have a sealed battery, but i would also like to get one of them voltmeters, where can i buy one, how do you go about hooking that up and where would you suggest install it?

Again thanks for your help.

did the stator problem ever get resolved on the later years bikes ?

Nope. My bike is sitting in the barn gathering dust because of the stator. I have an '06 with around 6000 miles on it :BLAM:

I was going to see if I could trade it in on another bike until I read the posting about the TOC cover modification. I really like my bike, and being a height challenged person...it's one of the few bikes I feel really comfortable on. No tippy toes for me at stop signs....nosirreee.

Ok so i am still new to this forum. I have been reading up on the STATOR issue.
I have a few questions, and forgive me if they have already been answered in other threads.

1. Is there a How to or pics/documentation on replacing the stator?
2. Can i get more info on this stator cover mod?
3. What is this R/R that i keep reading about, and what/where do i need to relocate it to?

I have a sealed battery, but i would also like to get one of them voltmeters, where can i buy one, how do you go about hooking that up and where would you suggest install it?

Again thanks for your help.

1. If you don't already have one, a service manual is real handy for anything you want to fix on the bike. There is a downloadable manual here, specific to each year model, but it is a large file. I didn't find pics of the stator replacement, but they may be in someone's personal gallery. Here are some threads from the verses: http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1170 and http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1149

2. Go to TOC Manufacturing, there are some pics of the modified cover there.

3. The stock location for the Regulator/Rectifier is directly under the battery box. Many R/Rs (and frames) have been badly damaged by battery acid, which is one reason AGM batteries are recommended. The stock location also sits just above the "Goat's Belly", which is part of the stock exhaust and creates a hot environment for the R/R. The R/R gets very hot as it dissapates excess electricity produced by the stator. Excess heat is thought to contribute to premature R/R failure, so many folks relocate it. Most attach it to the left passenger peg bracket with a custom bracket (see technical gallery for pics). The R/R is about 3" square, has a six plug connector, is grayish black or silver, and has fins to dissapate heat.

lance has posted a link to the seller on ebay where he gets his voltmeters. If you do an ebay search for 12 volt tractor voltmeters, you should find it. Runs around $12 + shipping. Most folks mount it between the tach and speedo. lance has a good tutorial on making a housing from 2" PVC. I'm an electrical dunce, so I'll let someone else tell you how to hook it up.

1. Is there a How to or pics/documentation on replacing the stator?
3. What is this R/R that i keep reading about, and what/where do i need to relocate it to?


These websites have pictures and some documentation:

1. http://jr_allas.tripod.com/documents/Stator_RegRec_Replace.htm
3. http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/vulcan.html

Yeah I to have surcumed to stator failure.:doh: I have replaced it myself. Thanks to this forum and the yahoo group. Installed Kuryakyn volt meter and will be doing a r/r relocation along with a degoating job. Thanks to all for the information. Manual wasn't as helpful as you guys. While I had her apart did spline job, replaced rear gear oil, spark plugs and all fluids.

:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy

Now my baby has been running great. Meter shows in the green almost all the time.

Does anyone have a list of all the gaskets and stuff a person should order to go along with a Stator replacement. I would like to assume since mine is a 1995 that anything I remove will need a new replacement.

Does anyone have a list of all the gaskets and stuff a person should order to go along with a Stator replacement. I would like to assume since mine is a 1995 that anything I remove will need a new replacement.

Shoot lance328 a pm. I believe he said he has lists of gaskets, O-rings etc. that are needed for any specific service or repairs.

I think there is one in my sig line along with a walkthrough. good luck!

Looks like my hell shall begin. first it was the brakes then it was the forks followed by the throttle cables and now it looks like the stator is next. The good news is I have found the some of the parts I need and the bad is I dont know where to find the rest. I found the stator on Bikebandit but i dont know where to get the rest.

If you are willing to wait, it seems to be the concensus of this forum that the rebuilt stators from Tim Perrot Enterprises (tpe.com), is better than the OEM stator, and the cheapest option too. Avoid Rick's stators as they are cheaply made, unreliable, and expensive.

cheapcycleparts.com is usually the best source for new parts, and ebay still has some bargains on used ones.

I have also been interested in the stator issue. One of the mods I am planning to do on my bike is to add a 3 phase breaker between the stator and the R/R. My hope is that most of the failures have been due to heat generated through high amperage, and not so much just hot oil. My impression to date, is that stator failure is due to a R/R or battery failure that draws excessive current from the stator, thereby overheating it to a point of melting off the protective insulation on the stator coils.
If I can keep high amperage from happening via a breaker, maybe I will stave off the stator replacement hell many have experienced.
I suppose what I would really like to know is ... Does anyone here know the root cause of the majority of stator failures? :blah:

Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod.

Replace Alternator / Stator Without Removing Engine
A simple mod for my 1990 VN750 / Vulcan 750 A6 using a Dremel rotary tool and about $20- in supplies from Walmart and Home Depot can be viewed at
youtube. Search Vulcan 750 Stator.

Here is the Youtube link for this mod:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN-JEBCnhDI

Hmmm. Gonna bookmark this so I'll have it when the time comes!

hmm seams like me and a few others discussed doing this very mod several years back.. glad to know it actually works
lol... too bad TOC is going to be upset...lol

thank you for posting the link. as a junior member, I cannot post links.

Yes I know that. I think after you have made 5 posts you can post a link.:smiley_th

TuxedoSeven or anyone who has done this mod. Is it absolutly necessary to cut off the original Stator wires (short) and leave in place. I guess there is a reason you have to notch out a new hole for the wires to come through. For some reason this hole scares me the most. One more thing that I'm drawing a blank on.... The 3 - 6mm X 15mm machine screws and the 3 - 6mm X 25mm ones appear to both go into the same 3 holes .... just from the opposite sides? Are the holes "threaded" or "tapped"? Do they meet in the middle of a threaded hole? Are there 6mm nuts somewhere, or am I just not getting it. TIA

TuxedoSeven or anyone who has done this mod. (1) Is it absolutly necessary to cut off the original Stator wires (short) and leave in place. I guess there is a reason you have to notch out a new hole for the wires to come through. For some reason this hole scares me the most. (2) One more thing that I'm drawing a blank on.... The 3 - 6mm X 15mm machine screws and the 3 - 6mm X 25mm ones appear to both go into the same 3 holes .... just from the opposite sides? (3) Are the holes "threaded" or "tapped"? Do they meet in the middle of a threaded hole? Are there 6mm nuts somewhere, or am I just not getting it. TIA

(1) No, it is not necessary to notch the outer case and reroute the wires, and is not done in the TOC mod where they tell you to fish the wires through the existing hole.
(2) The suggested machine screw sizes will work if you use 16 gauge plate, as I did. If you use a heavier gauge plate, you will need longer screws and a thicker gasket between the inner and outer case.
(3) Yes, the holes of the inner case are threaded all the way through and the machine screws should meet in the middle, or, if you prefer, use one long screw and secure with a nut. Please use thread lock.

Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod.

Well,,, with all the overtime at work and kids ballgames, I didn't take the time, while I had the cover off for the stator replacement, to do the modification to the housing. With that said, my 2 month old Ricks stator has failed me. Spent last night replacing bearings and seals in the rear diff. Got on it this morning and took off for about a 20 minute ride and stopped at the ATM to get some cash before the ride to Tennessee I had planned. Cut the engine while sitting there doing my bussiness and when I hit the starter button,,,,,, lets just say I hope the Lord forgave me for what came out of my month next. Pushed it to the nearest small downhill ( 'bout two blocks away) and got it started and home. It is only charging about .5 volts to the battery. I put the MOSFET on her at the staor replacement but did use a cheaper new r/r that I have to check and make sure it wasn't the r/r.

Guess it's time to do the case mod cause I ain't going through the 'normal' stator replacement again. Can't stand the thought of metal dust or shaving going in the engine but I ain't wrestling the engine again.

Another Ricks stator dies an early death! Sorry to hear it, but not surprised.

Yep,,,, pisses me off. My bike in so in mint condition I hate to notch the case for the wiring but,,,,, engine off? /notch the case? engine off?/ notch the case?

Just bought an extra stator cover/mount on ebay for 25 bucks. Gonna take it to work and get the fab shop guerue to make me a plate for it. May have a hole saw on my work van that will cut the center section out. If not I'll see if our electrical supplier has one that size. Try all this on the spare part before I do it to the bike.

Well,,, with all the overtime at work and kids ballgames, I didn't take the time, while I had the cover off for the stator replacement, to do the modification to the housing. With that said, my 2 month old Ricks stator has failed me. Spent last night replacing bearings and seals in the rear diff. Got on it this morning and took off for about a 20 minute ride and stopped at the ATM to get some cash before the ride to Tennessee I had planned. Cut the engine while sitting there doing my bussiness and when I hit the starter button,,,,,, lets just say I hope the Lord forgave me for what came out of my month next. Pushed it to the nearest small downhill ( 'bout two blocks away) and got it started and home. It is only charging about .5 volts to the battery. I put the MOSFET on her at the staor replacement but did use a cheaper new r/r that I have to check and make sure it wasn't the r/r.

Guess it's time to do the case mod cause I ain't going through the 'normal' stator replacement again. Can't stand the thought of metal dust or shaving going in the engine but I ain't wrestling the engine again.
Another Ricks stator dies an early death! Sorry to hear it, but not surprised.
Just bought an extra stator cover/mount on ebay for 25 bucks. Gonna take it to work and get the fab shop guerue to make me a plate for it. May have a hole saw on my work van that will cut the center section out. If not I'll see if our electrical supplier has one that size. Try all this on the spare part before I do it to the bike.


If you're doing the mod while the engine is still on the bike, please stuff oily rags into the ports on the inner case and use a small cutting wheel. This will leave a small amount of metal dust in the rotor drum which is easily removed. Hole saws and the like tend to produce shavings (not good).

Yep,,,, pisses me off. My bike in such in mint condition I hate to notch the case for the wiring but,,,,, engine off? /notch the case? engine off?/ notch the case?

Notching the outer cover is not required and is not done in the TOC stator mod where they tell you to fish the cables through the existing hole. It is, however, the easiest part of the job and makes the next stator replacement very simple .

Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod.

Worked 14 hr.s shift yesterday, then come home and started the mod job. Not the smartest thing I've ever done but it is alot cooler at night for working. Just waiting on the freshly rebuilt stator, which has extra long leads to reach the relocated r/r. Thank you Tim Parrott. USPS should have it here today, hopefully. I think my eyes have more grinding dust in them than the engine does, thanks to the neighborhood mice for having his way with my goggles.

Let me know how your stator mod went, I started tackling mine today as well. All I have left is notching the cover, grinding out the inside and an oil change. I hope by tomorrow I'll be able to take her for a spin and test it.

The mod has been greet so far. I put the old stator in with everything in place except for gasket sealer. Spun the engine to check for stator and drum clearance. Everything is a go EXCEPT for the USPS didn't drop off the PTE rebuilt stator Saturday. I also bought 2 6mm x 25mm bolts and cut the heads off, cut a slit in the ends for a screwdriver, to use for holding the mod and cover in line while you start the cover screws in.

The new Rick's stator I put in 2 months ago had all the wires at the solder points at the stator melted together. Call Tim Parrott when I sent my old Kawasaki stator to him and just asked him what would have caused it. He said more than likely cheap undersized wire overheating.

I started tackling mine today as well. All I have left is notching the cover, grinding out the inside and an oil change. I hope by tomorrow I'll be able to take her for a spin and test it.

How did yours work out. I hope great. For the oil change, I'm gonna run the same oil for a short time. Just gonna change the filter after about a 10 minute high idle, then again after about a 10 minute ride, then again after another 10 minute ride with an oil change this time. Let the filter do its job.

Tux, you should find someone to stamp the plate out and sell them. Alot of guys don't have the tools to make the plate correctly. I cheated, I ordered a cover off ebay and used a center punch through the cover to mark the holes. Drilled the first 2 and put the bolts in to hold the plate in place. Holes were perfect the first try:beerchug: even though it did cost me an extra 35 bucks.

Hey guys, my stator mod is done. Almost to the home stretch. I tested the stator that I had in my spare parts and it seems really good. The problem is that the bike shuts down at RPM and shoots oil out of the hole in the cover that I cut for the wires. I need advice on the best way to close that gap. I'm hoping with that problem fixed it will run great again and make the next stator job really easy. On a side note can I get a recomendation on the sealant you used for the cover? I used DAP auto and marine and just wanted to be sure that will be OK for this job. Thanks!!!!

http://www.vn750.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=308&pictureid=1852Stator still didn't come today but here are a few pics.

http://www.vn750.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=308&pictureid=1854

Hit the link in my sig for more pictures.

http://www.vn750.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=308&pictureid=1853

This is the 2 month old stator that the wires melted down.

Hey Chuck... You'll see what I'm talking about after you get your stator and notch your cover to accomodate the new power cable. I cut a notch in my cover about 3/4" x 3/8" to run the stator cable out. It would be virtually impossible to run this through the origional location without an engine pull. I used the existing timing wires and cut the power cable short. That gap you will create by notching the cover will shut your bike down unless you seal it.

Hey guys, my stator mod is done. Almost to the home stretch. I tested the stator that I had in my spare parts and it seems really good. The problem is that the bike shuts down at RPM and shoots oil out of the hole in the cover that I cut for the wires. I need advice on the best way to close that gap. I'm hoping with that problem fixed it will run great again and make the next stator job really easy. On a side note can I get a recomendation on the sealant you used for the cover? I used DAP auto and marine and just wanted to be sure that will be OK for this job. Thanks!!!!

Hey Chuck... You'll see what I'm talking about after you get your stator and notch your cover to accomodate the new power cable. I cut a notch in my cover about 3/4" x 3/8" to run the stator cable out. It would be virtually impossible to run this through the origional location without an engine pull. I used the existing timing wires and cut the power cable short. That gap you will create by notching the cover will shut your bike down unless you seal it.

The Electrosport stator I used came with a new rubber grommet attached. Most of the go-to guys here recommend Tim Parrott stators.

http://stores.ebay.com/Tim-Parrott-Enterprizes

timparrot@tpe.com

I don't know if they come with a new grommet but I'm sure someone here can let us know.
I traced the grommet on the outer cover and ground to just inside of the pencil lines so that it would be a snug fit.
If you choose to fish the wires, search the forum for tips. Here's one:

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13318

p.s. This is the best site going. Doing my splines this week and thanks to fergy in advance for the spot on write up.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17274

The new notch on the cover should fit the rubber wire grommet tightly as does the notch in the original location on the inner case and should not need any additional sealant. Should this not be the situation, using the same high temp silicon that was used to replace the OEM cover gasket should work fine. Please follow the directions for the silicon which will call for clean surfaces, curing time and tightening after curing.

Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod.

Thanks tuxedoseven, I cut my gap in the cover a little too wide and didn't notch out my plate at the top to accomodate the grommet. It's a good thing I have a spare cover that I can use and I can modify my plate to allow the extra room needed. Great mod this will save a lot of people time and a whole lot of cash! Replacing the stator after this will be quick and easy.

Well the stator finally made it here yesterday but I worked a 15 hr day so needless to say it didn't get put in. Hope to do it tonight cause we are going out of town for 5 days tomarrow.

Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod. Thanks to jm1515 for letting me ride his coat tails on this thread.

Another stator replaced here as well-schould i mention that im 70 and have zero shop skills (going through the side of the engine),2in line fuses installed 20 amps and RR moved to its new home behind the passenger footrest...Thanks to one and all for excellent posts/videos/advice and son on .could not have done it without you ...mucho gracias
A few hasty notes ...Make sure the guy you hand your modeling clay plate too for drilling does it asap so the clay does air dry and shrink amazingly fast,throwing all your measurements off.Also make up a spare (I did and was I glad )as on the one i had left at the shop to "pick up in a few days",the clay had shrunk on the shops sunny window sill by 1/4 of an inch all around within a space of 2 days... other than that things went well...