I finally got around to checking the splines on my brand-new 2006 VN 750 after riding 3,400 miles. This is what I found when I opened 'er up...

pre-lubed spline ~ http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=384&cat=528

pre-lubed drive shaft coupling ~ http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=391&cat=528

Needless to say, I lubed them well (with Bel-Ray paste, which is all I could find locally ~ not Moly 60, unfortunately ~ you can see the after-lubing photos in my gallery). I'm over 5,000 miles now and everything seems to be running smoothly. It may not be necessary, but I was thinking about doing the spline-lubing procedure again this summer, or having my mechanic do it while he performs the manual's suggested 6,000 mile maintenance.

Question: did my splines get damaged in any way by their almost-dry state for those first 3,400 miles? From the photographs, everything looks OK. Just wondering (and a little paranoid).

Hey, Charlie - The splines look good in your pics. I think if there'd been damage done you'd have found a) some dust and b) the splines themselves would've been misshapen (rounded edges, broken edges, etc.). Keep 'em lubed and you should be all set!

Those splines look good, I would not worry untill you need to replace the tire.
As long as you put a good amount about 1 to 2 tablespoons of greese in the splines you are good.

Thanks for the encouraging notes, Cindy and Chad.

By the way, when I did the spline-lubing, I couldn't fully lube the front u-joint because I couldn't remove the side cover to gain full access. (The cover bolt wouldn't budge ~ after stripping it, I had to have it drilled out and replaced!) Even so, I was able to pull the rubber boot back and spray some white lithium grease around the teeth where the drive shaft slips on to the front spline.

Thanks for the encouraging note, Chad.

By the way, when I did the lubing, I couldn't get at the front u-joint ~ just sprayed a lot of white lithium in there.

You can't really get at the u-joint except with the Li grease/spray, so you did it exactly right.

You can't really get at the u-joint except with the Li grease/spray, so you did it exactly right.

I'm feeling even better now! :notworthy

Nothing like the feeling of knowing you accidentally did it right.
(That's how mine went)

Charlie, you had troubles the first time you tried to check your splines, didn't you? DIdn't some retaining ring pop off, and freeze up your rear wheel? Then congrats on a job well-done! And I agree, BSkaggs, that sometimes there's great pleasure in being the Accidental Mechanic. :)

Charlie, you had troubles the first time you tried to check your splines, didn't you? DIdn't some retaining ring pop off, and freeze up your rear wheel? Then congrats on a job well-done! And I agree, BSkaggs, that sometimes there's great pleasure in being the Accidental Mechanic. :)

Yeah, as I waggled the rear wheel off a silver wire snap ring popped off. I thought that I had correctly snapped it back into place while reassembling the bike. But when everything was put back together, the rear wheel was "frozen." (By the way, be sure to test the wheel by spinning it before starting the engine and putting the bike into gear!) Since I didn't know why the wheel was locked ~ and I was tired, frustrated, and unable to troubleshoot the situation ~ I had it hauled in to the dealer. (:mad:) Evidently, it was the out-of-adjustment snap ring that locked it up. (I was relieved that it wasn't something more sinister, like splines not correctly aligned inside the coupling.) So, in my first and only attempt to lube the splines, I managed to lube everything appropriately, but was stymied in the end by that freak occurance. I will probably try it again sometime, but only when I have a warm, leisurely afternoon ahead of me. And I will certainly get a good look at the snap ring's proper placement before I wiggle that wheel off!

Here's the "photo essay" of my experience ~ unfortunately, I never got a picture of that snap ring! I think Fergy identified the part in a previous post. http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=528

The most recent time I pulled the rear wheel off of Orleans, I got it back on and nothing was turning. I thought about your experience (assuming I had remembered yours correctly!) and was like, "Oh, no, I didn't even take a ring off of anything!" As it turns out, I had the bike in gear....:doh:

I'm getting ready to take my VN 750 in for the 6,000-mile recommended scheduled maintenance. (These are guys who have done good work for me in the past and are, I think, trustworthy.) As an aside, I asked, "Do you take off the back wheel and check the lubrication of the splines?" He said, "No, that's not part of the scheduled maintenance at 6,000 miles." I said, "Well, I understand that dry splines have been a problem with VN 750s." He responded, a bit derisively and defensively, "Where did you hear that... the Internet?" And I said, "I took off the back wheel and checked my splines at 3,400 miles, and they were almost dry ~ just a little grease on the spline itself, and nothing in the drive shaft coupling. I have photographs of it." His response was, "Kawasaki uses a heavy-duty lubricant, and that little bit is sufficient."

Maybe he will change his mind when I actually take in the photographs. But I imagine that mechanics are getting more and more questions/hassles from motorcycle owners who are gathering info on the Internet ~ some of it inaccurate, but much of it based on the solid experience of knowledgable riders.

Way to go, Charlie! Nothing like a little knowledge to wake folks up, huh? I get really annoyed being challenged like that, but take some sweet revenge in knowing that I'm right. Stopped by the auto parts place last night to pick up a new battery for my Accord; guy brings the battery out, and I said, "The leads are backwards. The ground is to the front in mine." "Couldn't be,' he replied. "Yep." He didn't believe, and so insisted on walking out to the parking lot to see the battery *and* get the group number for the battery - as we walked out the door, I said, "It's Die Hard 33025." Gets to the car, says, "Yep, negative terminal to the front; and it's a 33025." Although he said it as if he'd discovered that information all by himself. :BLAM:

I swear, I am sooooooo glad to being learning more every day about my motorcycle, engines, etc. This Forum has been invaluable in increasing my knowledge and confidence in dealing with smart-a-- mechanics and salespeople. :smiley_th

This is probably a little touchy when it comes to a dealership you trust. On one hand, from the experience of the forum members, it is obvious that most techs no nothing about this problem on the 750's. On the other hand, it is part of the maintenance schedule, although the KAW service manual says it's 6000KM (4000 miles), and no matter what, the customer should be treated with respect. I'm easily angered by this subject and if a tech acted like that with me I guarantee they would see a side of me that most people don't know. They would at least get an education about the spline problem and some attitude adjustment guidance. None of them know everything, and a good tech is one that will listen and then go check it out for themselves, before going with or against anything that a customer has heard from the internet.

If he doesn't believe you, I'd have photos of yours, and especially of mine and everyone else's that took photos of their splines that were a dry rusty nub when they pulled it apart from not being lubed adequately from the factory. Also you can print this:
http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/images/spline_lube_pm_chart.jpg
and show him that it is on the maintanance schedule. Looks like in 2001 they changed the first scheduled maintenance of the propeller shaft to 6000 miles. Either way, it's still there and they are just skipping or ignoring it, or they don't know what "propeller shaft" means.

, "Kawasaki uses a heavy-duty lubricant, and that little bit is sufficient."

Maybe he will change his mind when I actually take in the photographs. But I imagine that mechanics are getting more and more questions/hassles from motorcycle owners who are gathering info on the Internet ~ some of it inaccurate, but much of it based on the solid experience of knowledgable riders.

My MC dealerships head mechanic said that all KAW's with shaft drive weren't lubricated with enough grease at the factory.

I can't believe that chart of Fergy's, but I'm sure it's authentic requiring an Engine Oil Change at 1000 miles and not again to 7500 miles!
Thanks for posting the chart Ferg.

I'll be taking my bike in for the 6,000 scheduled maintenance soon. I will take with me copies of the photographs I took of the splines at 3,400 miles ~ before and after lubrication. It will be interesting to see what the mechanic says about them.

I live equi-distant from two Kaw dealers ~ each is about 20-30 minutes away ~ and I'm trying to figure out which service department is worthy of the most trust. Maybe I ought to display the photos to both and see what reaction I get!

Meanwhile, I am learning how to do some of the basic stuff myself ~ spline lube, oil change, etc.

By the way, I was at the newly-refurbished dealership in Middletown, OH today and they actually had Honda Moly 60 for sale!!!

I did that screen capture from that page in the KAW pdf manual, although like I mentioned, the 01 addendum chart has some changes to the mileage intervals. I didn't pay attention to the oil change one! That's crazy.

The oil change intervals are correct.As a ASM certified Mehcanic,and a College trained Engineer,and one thats always looking for the truth,I will say its the truth(ASE Engineers say that it is and they test these things).Oil recomendations are one year or 7500 miles which ever comes first,every thing else is marketing from oil company's or filter company's thats looking to seperate you from your money by focusing on the severe condition recomendation and marketing it as the general guide line.That being said I still change the oil in my Motorcycle's at 3000 because of the clutces and tranny and fell better for it.

Moontroll, I certainly won't argue with your credentials! I'm sure the oil companies would like to see more frequent oil changes. I do question the results of the tests that show that 7500 miles on especially dyno oil, showing your engine is still getting adequate protection. I can find the information if you are interested, but I believe it was on the KZ1000P yahoo group where several members were sending in samples of oils drained from their KZP's to be tested for various metals, other crud, and viscosity. They were finding that the oil's protective capability was way down with as little as 1200-1500 miles on it. There is some testing facility where you request a test. They send you a vial to be filled and sent back with a fee of maybe $20. They test the oil and send you a print out of all the tests and results.

Anyway, I'm like you, every 3000 miles and yes I've been known to lube my starter too! :smiley_th (and my carport, arms, occasional tennis shoe, etc.)

There are a lot of different problems with motor oil besides oil breakdown. Driving habits have a lot to do with how well your oil will work for you.

To keep oil healthy about the worst thing a driver or rider can do is to take short trips where the engine doesn't reach maximum temperature for long enough to burn off any sludge in the engine. Vehicles that I have driven that were mainly highway miles where the engine ran at high temperatuare lasted much longer than vehicles that were used mainly for around town trips, slow drives and stop and go driving.

I once drove for a company with several Chevy Suburbans in their fleet. The oil was changed at 6000 miles or more, but never before 6000 miles, and they
were driven mostly on the highway at high speed. Several of the Suburbans
had odometer readings over 500,000 miles with no engine work. Dyno oil was used and several brands of oil were used.

The oil was filthy lookin after 4000 miles and I couldn't believe the company didn't change the oil at 3000 miles, but apparently they knew what they were doing. However there were problems with the differentials where dyno oil was used.

Only thing I would add is that with the same oil lubing the tranny and clutch in motorcycles, it will get ground up or blended more rapidly than in a regular engine. It's the additives in the oil that make it's viscosity properties, (dyno mainly, as full synthetics don't need the additives) and the additives get ground down and become less effective in our bikes.

Hey Fergy ~ on May 24 you posted the maintenance schedule for your 2002 Vulcan. The maintenance schedule for my 2006 model suggests that the:

oil & filter be changed at 500 miles (only 100 miles earlier than yours), and then not again until 6000 miles (a big gap, but still a whopping 1500 miles earlier than yours!) ~ at least once a year, regardless of mileage.
"propeller shaft joint" (i.e. the splines) be lubed at 6000 miles (2000 miles later than yours!). As you know, I lubed the splines myself at 3407 and found them to be nearly dry, so it's a good thing I didn't wait until 6000 miles.

When I take the bike in for my 6000 mile scheduled maintenance, I will still have them go ahead and lube the splines because I want them to use the Honda Moly 60 that I didn't have when I did it myself. While they're at it, I will make sure that they lube the swingarm pivot (also indicated at 6000 miles).

I had the oil/filter changed at these mileage markers: 842, 3160, 3801, and 5465. I wish that I had changed the oil myself earlier and more often. The first time I changed it myself was today, at 5465, and I found pieces of shaved aluminum on the filter screen! It makes me wonder if the dealer bothered to clean the screen on the initial three changes. I will do it myself from now on.

When I take the bike in for my 6000 mile scheduled maintenance, I will still have them go ahead and lube the splines because I want them to use the Honda Moly 60.

Ya might want to be sure they have the Moly 60. The shop I took my bike to recently is a Honda dealer (as well as several other brands) and didn't have it. Well, atleast not on the shelf and I didn't ask them if they had it for shop use.
Of the 4 closest shops to me, none of them seem to have it. Guess I gotta get it online.

Hey Guy........I am a tad bit confused on why you are going to go back to your dealer for any maintanance? (Other than to keep your warranty in effect)

You had them change your oil three times & don't think that they cleaned your screen?

You are now going to have them lube your splines? HUH? :BLAM:

Ok...here's the deal.......After you get it back, you will not sleep good as you will still wonder if they did any of the above properly! Did they use Moly 60 or better.......Did they properly change the oil.......

Unless you stand right there & watch what they are doing, you might as well have the guy making your Big Mac do the above...........

Get the proper moly 60 or TS Moly 70 as I did & do it yourself!

Ok, I fell better now...........:lockd:

2006 VN750
Tcat

Ya might want to be sure they have the Moly 60.

I've been to a bunch of motorcycle dealers, and nobody has carried Honda Moly 60. But Honda of Middletown just remodeled their place, and when I was browsing around... there it was ~ Honda Moly 60 ~ right there on the shelf!

Hey Guy........I am a tad bit confused on why you are going to go back to your dealer for any maintanance? (Other than to keep your warranty in effect)...

You make excellent points. Believe me, I've been thinking the same things, especially since my warranty has expired.

Here's the thing: I am NOT very mechanical and therefore easily confused/frustrated. Furthermore, I have an unusually demanding work/life schedule. When I consider those two conditions, it seems more logical to simply pay someone to handle the more complex jobs required to keep my Vulcan safe and working properly. The obvious challenge is to find a skilled/trustworthy motorcycle mechanic (either at a Kaw dealer or elsewhere).

I HAVE lubed my splines once, but it was an ordeal (although it would have been much less of one if that %^$& snap ring hadn't popped off and frozen my back wheel ~ a long story told elsewhere on this site). Perhaps if I tried it one more time and was victorious, I would have a more positive attitude about self-maintenance. But when I read the instructions about how to install a Stebel Nautilus air horn or relocate my r/r (not a big deal for many folk on this site), my head just swims.

I certainly know what you mean about wondering whether or not the requested work was actually done, and done well. And I also know the satisfaction of simply doing the work myself. I will, at the very least, continue to change the oil and perform the other minor maintenance tasks myself. But I'm not sure about the rest of it.

Wow, that was a killer discussion !

Hey Charlie.........If ya ever get up this way in Western/Central, lower Michigan, I'll lube yer splines! It won't cost you a dime (Bring your own Moly) :motorcycl

I'll have it done before your coffee gets cold.........

Hopefully, you have already re-located your R&R.............:doh:

Tcat1000

Hey Charlie.........If ya ever get up this way in Western/Central, lower Michigan, I'll lube yer splines! It won't cost you a dime (Bring your own Moly) :motorcycl

I'll have it done before your coffee gets cold.........

Hopefully, you have already re-located your R&R.............:doh:

Tcat1000

I sometimes travel to the western U.P. And I usually make it to the Big House in Ann Arbor for at least one football game each year! Lubing my splines for the cost of the Moly?! Visiting lovely Ludington could be worth the detour! (I remember visiting Ludington as a kid and swimming in Lake Michigan ~ loved it.)

No, I have not yet relocated my r/r...

If ya ask real nice I might even re-locate your R&R......:pepper:

I use aluminum bar stock 1/4 X 1" then Wrought Iron paint. New chrome socket head bolt through foot peg mount....Etc........Just did my buddies 2004.........

(No, I don't have custom brackets for sale...... I just make one as I need it)

Tcat