Once again I meet someone in this group who is totally awesome.
Took the bike over to Jon’s house this morning and he greased the
splines for me. Ok, the bike will be 6 months old tomorrow, and has
9,500 miles on it. I wouldn’t say they were bone dry, but they sure
needed to be greased. So it doesn’t matter what year, I recommend
everyone check your splines. If I hadn’t meet Jon I may not have
done it myself . I did ask the dealer to do it when the bike was new and
he said he did. Don’t trust the dealer check it yourself.


Jon….Thank you for all your help today. It was great meeting
your family and spending the day with you. Look forward to seeing
you soon.


Here are some pictures I took

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/artybolts/album?.dir=/bf65re2

Arty -

My pleasure, lets get together and ride soon !

Jon

And yet another satisfied VN750.com customer!!

VN750.com 1

Dealers 0

Now if you can send up some of that warm Florida weather I'd appreciate that! LOL

Looks like the same pictures I took yesterday. Must have been spline day.

Once again I meet someone in this group who is totally awesome. Took the bike over to Jon’s house this morning and he greased the splines for me.

OK, does anybody like Jon live in the Cincinnati area?! There must be a trustworthy mechanic or handy VN 750 owner somewhere around here!

Thanks for including the photos. I see you didn't use a floor jack. Even to my non-mechanical eyes the procedure looks fairly simple. And that's what everybody has been posting.

I'm still waiting for a free day to go shopping for a few more tools/supplies and then do my 2006... as the miles climb over 3,300...

If you can’t find anyone (like Jon) to help out. Take the procedure from the
files to a mechanic and watch him do it. Don’t take his work that it was done. No floor jack just used the center stand.

It's people like Jon that makes this site what it is! What a great group!

Calling all OHIO members!! Surely we have some... If not, I'll be glad to walk you through the procedure over the phone! I have free LD on weekends...

I agree



It's people like Jon that makes this site what it is! What a great group!

Calling all OHIO members!! Surely we have some... If not, I'll be glad to walk you through the procedure over the phone! I have free LD on weekends...

I bet everyone who hasn't done it in recent memory is getting nervous and thinking should grease my splines this weekend....

How long does it take to do? is it all Metric tools? Do we have a sticky for the official HOW-TO?

I've done it recently, and now I'm wondering if I got enough grease in there...

Looks like Jon did a bang up job on the Splines, a much better job than most mc mechanics would do.

Have only 900 miles on my 06' and it's about time to check the splines, but
am waiting for a snowy day to lube Lena's Splines. My dual sport KLR650 has a higher priority problem with what is called a Doo-hickey (part of the ACCT
system) that KAW made too flimsy and thin that can break and slosh around
inside the engine.. a fairly easy fix with a thicker doo-hickey piece.

Installed Lena's Plexifairing 3 yesterday and put on the rear rack and
sissy bar today. Starting to read up on Wally's Givi saddle bag installation
for my next major project.

I bet everyone who hasn't done it in recent memory is getting nervous and thinking should grease my splines this weekend....

How long does it take to do? is it all Metric tools? Do we have a sticky for the official HOW-TO?

Philip -

Here (http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/writeups/final_drive1.html) is a good write up on spline lube procedure.

Your first time may take you a couple of hours, next time under a hour. If I did it again, probably half an hour. You learn SAFE shortcuts as you do it.

Please hit us up for any questions and don't be concerned, pretty straight forward job. Just be careful with the bike on the center stand if you DO NOT tie it off (so it can't go forward and jump off the stand). I don't, but you should.

Little bit harder with only two hands, just needs better preparation for the job. Tools easily reached, blocks of wood for tire support, etc.

Have fun !

Jon

Metric tools (socket set) needed. Go by Lowes and pick up a 27mm socket to add to your collection. You'll need it for the axel nut. Torque wrench should be used to tighten stuff right. You might need help getting your bike on the center stand with a 2x6 under it. That little bit makes centerstanding a bigger deal for sure. Also, if you use a 2x6 or bigger, you won't have to deflate your tire to get the wheel off. Just remove your license plate, it gives plenty of room for wheel removal. I use a wratchet strap to tie the center stand to the front forks to keep the bike from trying to launch forward when loosening the axel nut.

Print out the writeup if you can and have it with you. It's really an easy job. Just keep things layed out in order, and put them back where they came from.

I am apparently the only person on this site who has tried to lube his own splines and failed. Well, I did lube the splines. But when I finished putting everything back together, I discovered that my back wheel was frozen. And, having endured multiple frustrations on the way to that troubling result, I didn't have the heart to start from square one and try again. So I had my bike towed this afternoon, and it is now in the care of a certified Kaw mechanic.

I've shared most of my story with Fergy (including photographs), and I want to say that he has been exceedingly generous with his time and expertise. In fact there are a number of you who have encouraged/advised me, offering all kinds of assistance, and I am grateful to each one of you.

I may write up and post an essay about my experience -- it may be especially helpful to others who, like me, are mechanically-challenged yet still willing to try working on his/her own bike. And entertaining for the rest of you! But first I want to find out how the story ends. I'm hoping that the problem is not a severe as I fear.

A few good things have come out of this mess. But I'll save that for "the rest of the story."

Hey, Charlie!

Sounds like maybe it was just one step where things went south? I bet it's something small and you'll have your new baby back in no time. And for what it's worth, it's all about *trying* - I think most of us have had setbacks along the way (see my post tonight on headlight adjustment), but that's just all part of the learning.

It'll be fine - and good on ya for giving it your best!!

Chances are you pulled back on the drive shaft and it wasn't seated correctly when you put it back together.
When I replaced my final drive I went after the drive shaft via the swingarm so I wouldn't have to wait for a new bevel gear gasket. The swingarm had not been tightened up fully which meant the universal joint (on the driveshaft) was not where it should be. Result.. When I went to spin the wheel it didn't! I did hear a metal to metal sound and getting down to trace it it was coming from the universal joint area.
The wheel will not spin free if the drive shaft is not properly seated in the forward splines.

Ahh. Glad you had that happen to you Dianna, 'cause I wouldn't even know where to start solving this problem. I mean, not like I'm saying that I'm glad it happened to you; I'm glad you know the solution.

Well dang it! Now I can't say anyone can do it! EasyRectum, er, Rector, if it turns out that the drive shaft was pulled too far towards the wheel, then Fergy will be sure to put this important info in his steps, and maybe again I can say anyone can do it.

Chances are you pulled back on the drive shaft and it wasn't seated correctly when you put it back together.
The swingarm had not been tightened up fully which meant the universal joint (on the driveshaft) was not where it should be. ...
The wheel will not spin free if the drive shaft is not properly seated in the forward splines.

That sounds like a reasonable explanation. I did the same thing - i.e., pulled the U joint apart, but it was before I went to put the wheel back on. So I fiddled with that for a few minutes until it re-seated. But that could happen pretty easily.

ER - it'll be a simple fix!! Then we're gonna make you do it all over again so that you get your confidence back. :rockon:

Luckily, he didn't try to start the bike and take it for a ride before checking everything out. Maybe not "luckily" but "smartly" in his case. He was cautious about everything and we talked several times through the procedure. I only wish I could have been there to help. I might add an exploded view of all the parts with labels so someone that's never done anything like this before will know what things like final drive, coupling, u-joint etc. are. I'm sure that would help some. I know it's something simple, and I don't believe he hurt anything so I'm sure he'll have it back in fine shape soon. Sounds like he has a very good service center with really good techs that know the 750 well. Most of us can't say that!

Fergy,
Part of my wrap-up procedure for the Spline Lube or Final Drive replacement has always been to.. "Give the wheel a spin to make sure everything is set"
Definitely a way to make sure everything got put back in the right place and easy to do while it is up on the center stand. (Oh yeah, make sure the bike is in neutral when you spin the wheel too *G*)

Good point Dianna. I'll add that to the bottom of the procedure.

Cindy -- Yeah, my hope is that my frozen rear wheel was the result of something simple like over-tightening the axel nut or futzing up the rear brake during re-installation. No, I didn't immediately take it out for a spin. But I didn't, as you suggested, spin the wheel first (in neutral!) to test it while it was still on the center stand. Instead, I dropped it off the stand and (assuming all was in perfect order), fired it up, and gently tried to move forward (in my garage). I went only about a couple of inches, but I could immediately tell that something was terribly wrong. And a little smoke curled out of the right exhaust! I shut it down immediately. As for trying it again... I don't know... maybe it's like running a marathon... after the memory of the pain dims, you're often willing to try it again! (From what I hear, mothers would never have a second baby if the pain of childbirth didn't fade!)

Dianna -- Yeah, I know that the drive shaft got pulled back (off the u-joint coupling), and it kept coming off as I tried to reconnect everything. I was able to reinsert it by feel several times, and I thought that it was properly meshed with the forward splines before reassembly. (This, of course, is one possible explanation for my frozen rear wheel.) One good thing about this -- I couldn't get the left side cover off (that ridiculous cross-shaped nut was frozen, and I couldn't budge it with either the side of the ignition key or a specially-designed thick screwdriver head). So I pulled back the rubber cover and was able to spray white lithium directly on the exposed spline -- because the drive shaft had been pulled back from the u-joint!

cegodsey -- Yeah, I dreaded making a public confession. But I figured that my failure would: 1) highlight challenges that the non-mechanical need to know about before trying this procedure (issues that the mechanical wouldn't even consider to be challenges), and 2) provide a little levity for the rest of you!

By the way... when I first disassembled everything, I discovered: 1) a thin coating of dark grease on the back spline, and 2) nothing at all in the female end (end of the drive shaft). This is on a 2006 with 3,300 miles.

Front splines are typically light grease. a spray with white lithium usualy keeps those in fine shape since it is more of a connecter with teeth than the movement that occurs on the rear splines. I have never heard of the front splines going bad.

One other thought when you mentioned tightening down things..
JR did a spline lube at one of the gatherings and had a similar problem. Seems he was missing a spacer on the rear axle and when tightened down too far the wheel frooze. He was able to loosen it to get back home and I believe he found the spacer there.. So tightening the rear axle may also be it.. especially if you didn't hear any noise from the universal joint area.
I'm sure it is something simple and you will be back on the road very soon, and this time knowing that your splines are lubed as they should be!

One of his problems he had was when he removed the wheel from the final drive, the big ring clip that holds the cover on (the cover with the 7 holes in it that hides the brake stuff) had come off. I'm wondering if that big ring didn't get clipped in place right, and it might have been pinched between the hub and final drive when he tightened things back up. He called me and asked what it was when it fell off and I had to go look it up. It shouldn't have come off so I'm also wondering if it was bent and not really clipping in place good.

Dear All:

One of his problems he had was when he removed the wheel from the final drive, the big ring clip that holds the cover on (the cover with the 7 holes in it that hides the brake stuff) had come off. I'm wondering if that big ring didn't get clipped in place right, and it might have been pinched between the hub and final drive when he tightened things back up. He called me and asked what it was when it fell off and I had to go look it up. It shouldn't have come off so I'm also wondering if it was bent and not really clipping in place good.

That's exactly what happened. This silver ring (about the thickness of a clothes hanger, and not quite a complete circle) popped off as I waggled the wheel off between the final drive (on the left) and the frame (on the right), which was a very tight squeeze.

I got a call from the Kaw mechanic today. (I was surprised... he had said he wouldn't be able to get to it until after the weekend.) He said that once he reset this ring, everything came together perfectly and the back wheel spins without hindrance.

Unfortunately, he didn't open up the final drive and inspect my spline-lubing work! I wish he had, just to set my mind at ease that I did everything right in there. I hope that nothing got stripped/chewed up when I fired the bike up and put it into gear for a moment. And I've wondered if that spring on the tip of the spline got knocked askew in the thick lube as I waggled the final drive back onto the drive shaft! In any case, the mechanic took the bike out for a test spin and said it rides perfectly well now. So I'm good to go -- I hope to pick it up tomorrow. :motorcycl

I'm out the cost of towing and 1-1.5 hours of labor, and no little amount of annoyance/inconvenience. But it could have been worse.

So, perhaps I get half-credit for the project: I apparently did lube the splines successfully! ;)

Charlie, I got your message. That's great news! That ring was really bothering me. I'm sure sorry you had to pay to have it towed and looked at, but I'm glad it's ready to go. Sounds like your techs know what they're doing and that's good to know. Your luck is not all bad. Most of us would love to have a KAW shop with techs that know the 750!

That was a rough start to your motorcycle wrenching, but you did good! The rest will be easy!

I'll pack up the computer and shoot some more photos tonight and update the spline lube procedure. If anyone knows of other info that needs to be added, please speak up.

I'll be adding a statement about spinning the wheel with the bike in neutral and still on the centerstand to make sure you have everything right and it spins free. I'll also add a photo of the drive shaft and u-joint so everyone knows what it is and looks like. I'll try to find a good photo that I can label the various parts on. I'll try to find a pic of the ring that stopped Charlie's wheel.

Hey, Fergy -
A couple of things that occurred to me: first, in re: possible predicaments with the u-joint, maybe make a note to check that connection *before* putting the back wheel on (see if the driveshaft is moving as it should). I did find that it slid on me a couple of times when I was trying to get things lined up with the wheel, so maybe just a "heads up" for the do-it-yourselfer. The other thing is just about getting combination wrenches - or at least a 17mm for loosening the shock nuts. My sockets weren't deep enough to fit over those nuts, but it wasn't a problem with the combo.

Hey, Charlie -
You get all kinds of credit for doing 95% of the work on your own, and 100% of the credit for taking on the task of doing it yourself. It's all about the Zen, baby! Good on ya! :beerchug:

Another couple of good points. I had the u-joint come off the front spline on me as well. I remember someone warned not to let that happen, but mine just nearly magically went back on so I forgot about it. I did have to stick my fingers under it to guide it on but it went right back on.

Wrenches. Again I wouldn't have thought of that since my socket set contains both short and long sockets. Good call. I'll try to think of any other things I took for granted!;) Thanks for the suggestions!

Socket wrenches are nice but...
What I absolutely LOVE are my ratcheting wrenches! Especially nice for spots where you can't get a socket in and you just have that little bit of room to work in.
I also have a set of "stubbies" and if I could find a set of ratcheting stubbies that didn't cost $10-$15 a wrench I'd be in wrench wenching Heaven!

Easy Rector,

Curious to know if your Splines had any grease on them. Your bike is an
06' like mine and might have been lubed about the same, but I'm not
counting on it, plan on doing those Splines this Winter.

Glad I waited awhile to grease my splines. Yes Fergy some more detailed
pictures with the names of parts will help tremendously.

Curious to know if your Splines had any grease on them. Your bike is an 06' like mine and might have been lubed about the same, but I'm not counting on it...

There was a small amount of dark lube on the rear spline, but nothing I could see on the inside of the drive shaft coupling. I have 3,400 miles on the bike already, and it probably would have been OK until the 6,000-mile maintenance check. But I must admit that I am feeling more confident KNOWING that there's a LOT of lube in there!

I'm back on the road. The bike is riding beautifully! :motorcycl

Here are some photos from my first effort at motorcycle maintenance.
http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=528

Thanks EasyR, good to hear that KAW did at least put some lube on
the splines. Do you know the schedule for lubing the splines? Have heard
some riders say every 4K, but that seems a bit much?

MOM (Motorcycle Owners Manual) says.. about every 12,000 miles. Figure about every tire change, since you have the rear wheel off anyway.
Since I do a lot of distance riding at higher speeds, and after I had the Moly cook down on me I'll be re-checking mine at 6,000 miles.
Once the Krytox proves to hold up better I'll switch back to 12,000 miles.

MOM (Motorcycle Owners Manual) says.. about every 12,000 miles. Figure about every tire change, since you have the rear wheel off anyway.
Since I do a lot of distance riding at higher speeds, and after I had the Moly cook down on me I'll be re-checking mine at 6,000 miles.
Once the Krytox proves to hold up better I'll switch back to 12,000 miles.


You had the moly cook down on you? Do tell! Most of my riding is I-30, although for short periods. Is this something that long distance riders need to know?

Excellent article on Greasing Splines, Krytox and Moly.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Shaft.html

Ratcheting Wrenches: I've put off buying them for too long. I know I'd get tons of use out of em. Maybe for my bday or christmas... I could write a book about all the times I could have used them.

:beerchug: EasyRector]There was a small amount of dark lube on the rear spline, but nothing I could see on the inside of the drive shaft coupling. I have 3,400 miles on the bike already, and it probably would have been OK until the 6,000-mile maintenance check. But I must admit that I am feeling more confident KNOWING that there's a LOT of lube in there!

I'm back on the road. The bike is riding beautifully! :motorcycl[/QUOTE]


EasyRector: Glad to hear everything worked out Ok for you. It’s nice to be back on the road.

Ratcheting Wrenches: I've put off buying them for too long. I know I'd get tons of use out of em.

Me too, but I can't believe how much they cost !! $$$:doh:
I've seen alot of no-name brand ones which are a bit cheaper, but I've had my share of no-name stuff that weren't worth it at 1/4 the price.

With all the mods I have to do to my 2 bikes and ATV I saw the need
to get Snubby Flex Ratcheting Wrenches, ordered 10 from size 10mm
to 19mm from Webtrucktool, made my KD tools with a mirror finish, they
look good enough for what I have to do. There not cheap.

Sears makes them that lock, but I don't think that is necessary because
most Flex wrenches have a form of lock when bent at an angle.

Couldn't find any under 10mm.

Dianna seems to know all the tools and lubricants that we need to service
our bikes, will have to try some of that Krytox lube for my splines, think it
is made by DuPont, and keeps temps down on the splines. Should wait until
after my Warranty expires on Lena in June of 07' before I lube the Splines.
Because I ride two bikes I shouldn't have over 3K on Lena by the end of the
Warranty.

Can't post the pictures here because of written Copywrite, but here
is a link to several photos with instruction of the following:

Final Drive Removal (VN750) #2

Propeller Shaft Lube (VN750) #3

Front wheel and rear tire replacement (VN750) #5

Thank you Mr. C.D. Thayer, hope to give you some business.

http://www.cdthayer.com/cycleservice.htm