I’m in the process of rebuilding an ’86 VN750, and I’m currently looking at relocating the R/R. I’m replacing the stator and regulator/rectifier, but I’ve noticed that one of the poles in the 6 pole connector to the R/R is pretty burnt, and will need to be replaced. It’s the connector with the white wire running from it. The wire insulation hasn’t melted, but it’s a bit charred looking.
Can anyone shed any light on why only the white wire has gotten hot enough to blacken the insulation, and should I be concerned about wiring damage elsewhere that has been caused by this?:confused: I’ve looked at the other connectors, (junction box, ignitor box etc...), and they all seem to be in good shape.

Also, has anyone had any issues with excessive heat on the passenger’s leg from relocating the R/R next to the left hand passenger footpeg? I’m considering relocating it to under the rear guard. The plastic cover, behind the battery box, that attaches the rear fender to the frame looks like a convenient and tidy place to mount the R/R. I’m thinking that it should get sufficient airflow around it in this position, (my ’05 Z750 has the R/R mounted in the same place), and will be fairly tucked away out of sight. Has anyone else tried this?

Cheers. :beerchug:

i dont think anyone has tried in that location before. As far as your wire issue goes. it got hot because the wires that run the bike are a tad below what should have been used, and corrosion is like a resistor burning juice as heat. What i would do if i were you is solder your connections and seal it. while your in there, i would also do a dielectric grease application on all connections.

What stator are you going to be using?

Thanks for the tip Hizzo3.
Putting dielectric grease on all the connectors is now on the 'to do' list.

I'm actually just getting my stator rewound, not replacing it with a new one. The Kawasaki mechanic recommended it as an easier and cheaper option, and the stator didn't look too bad anyway.

It's probably worth me mentioning with regards to the R/R reposition, that I plan to install aftermarket mufflers on the bike too, so there'll be no goat's belly to genereate excess heat for the electrics.

One of our other members here repositioned his R/R behind the right cover as well. The pics are in the gallery.

Just make sure that wherever you put it, it gets lots of air flow. With mine on the side, it still gets "untouchable" when I ride it in 90 degree heat.

Ozkaw, you need a teeth brush...

I think it was KnifeMaker who had a pic of the optimum placement point for the R/R.
It was on a pole (No, not a poll or pool !) behind the seat, about 3 feet above the highest part of the backrest.
And, just to avoid confusion, it was as a joke ! (but it would get great air flow there !!!)

well later on i plan to rewire the whole r/r, and plan to move it to the top of the radiator and run the wires under the tank. simmilar placement as the old triump's zener diode. just instead of on the forks (think the turning will add to a broken wire) and just put it on the top of the radiator shroud.

good place for it, I was looking at the 2000's and they are mounted in front below the radiator

Kanclerz was the one who put his under the right side plastic cover.

Well I relocated my R/R today to inside the rear guard. As you see from the pics, the old connector was looking, well…old, and had a scorched area around one of the pins, so I soldered and sealed the new pins and replaced the connector along with the R/R.

Relocating it was a breeze. I just drilled some mounting holes in the plastic guard, and notched out a section for the wiring to feed through. I also added a couple of spacers behind the R/R, (see pic), to keep it away from contact with the plastic.
I’m really pleased with the end result.:D

Hmm. I expected the pictures to come through upside-down.

But seriously, looks good. You might want to coat the connector in grease. I imagine you'll eventually have to drive through water, so use anything you can to keep the water out of the connections. When you get your bike back together, I'd like to know how hot it gets (or doesn't get).

looks good, good point about the water cegodsey I was wondering how hot it will get there myself. or maybe it will be cooled by the tire rotation

Hmm. I expected the pictures to come through upside-down.

But seriously, looks good. You might want to coat the connector in grease. I imagine you'll eventually have to drive through water, so use anything you can to keep the water out of the connections. When you get your bike back together, I'd like to know how hot it gets (or doesn't get).

Ah, the reason that you’re seeing the pictures the right way up is because when I posted them, I turned my computer upside down. ;)

I greased the connection before I hooked it up, but I’ll be keeping a close eye on it for any signs of moisture. Would wrapping electrical tape up over the actual connector and the joint to the R/R be advisable? I’ve also gone over all the other connectors I could find on the bike, cleaned them with contact cleaner and greased them all too, just to be sure.

I’m guessing air movement around the rotating tyre, combined with greater exposure to cooler air, should be sufficient to keep its temperature down. It has to be a cooler spot than the stock mounting position I reckon.

I wouldn't trust electrical tape. It has the tendency to lose its stickyness when it gets warm or hot. But then, that could just be my experience with cheap tape. Maybe coating the area with silicone? Maybe just greasing it is OK.

By the way, what time is it there?

Well I relocated my R/R today to inside the rear guard. As you see from the pics, the old connector was looking, well…old, and had a scorched area around one of the pins, so I soldered and sealed the new pins and replaced the connector along with the R/R.

Relocating it was a breeze. I just drilled some mounting holes in the plastic guard, and notched out a section for the wiring to feed through. I also added a couple of spacers behind the R/R, (see pic), to keep it away from contact with the plastic.
I’m really pleased with the end result.:D

Run a ground wire to it "just in case". The regulator is grounded through the ground wire in the harness, but also has contact with the frame of the bike in it's original mount. While there is no "official" recommendation to ground the body of the RR, I would recommend that if you are going to mount it to a piece of plastic, you run a ground wire to the mount of the RR to keep the RR's body grounded with the bike. Just a precaution...

Ah, the reason that you’re seeing the pictures the right way up is because when I posted them, I turned my computer upside down. ;)

I greased the connection before I hooked it up, but I’ll be keeping a close eye on it for any signs of moisture. Would wrapping electrical tape up over the actual connector and the joint to the R/R be advisable? I’ve also gone over all the other connectors I could find on the bike, cleaned them with contact cleaner and greased them all too, just to be sure.

I’m guessing air movement around the rotating tyre, combined with greater exposure to cooler air, should be sufficient to keep its temperature down. It has to be a cooler spot than the stock mounting position I reckon.

i would just create a pig tail... scrap the connector, then solder the wire to the spades. then fill the female plug on the R/R with an epoxy, or an electrical resistant silicone (liquid electrical tape) This will prevent moisture and water damage as grease is only good for mild amounts of moisture, not waterproofing. also i would then put shrink wrap over the wire bundle, then use a teflon spiral wire organizer around the wires to keep the wires protected from flying rocks and so on from the tire.... better safe then sorry, cause in a location like that (which is a great idea due to airflow from the moving tire and the use of the fender as an additional heat sink) but a short would be bad...

Here's a funny thought. The first time the regulator gets really hot, will it melt the plastic fender? ???

Here's a funny thought. The first time the regulator gets really hot, will it melt the plastic fender? ???

I thought about the possibility of the plastic melting from the heat emitted from the R/R, but I think that it’s pretty unlikely. I added the spacers behind it just in case, but the plastic that part of the fender is made from is pretty thick and takes quite a while to get soft enough to start to melt, even with a naked flame, so it should be o.k.
I might make a small stainless heat shield to mount to the fender just in case.

Thanks for the tips everyone, I’ll be adding an extra earth wire and some wire protection to the set-up, and I’ll be looking into some extra waterproofing for the connection.

Cheers,
OK.
(and by the way cegodsey, the time here now is 8.05pm)

8:05 Monday night? Or Sunday night? When you posted, it was Monday at 5 AM Central time. Right now it is 4:23 PM Monday Central Time.

8:05 Monday night? Or Sunday night? When you posted, it was Monday at 5 AM Central time. Right now it is 4:23 PM Monday Central Time.


My last post was on Monday night at 8:05 pm.
Right now it's 9:10am Eastern Standard Time, on Tuesday morning.
;)

It's 6PM Monday night. So, how is tomorrow going so far?

Run a ground wire to it "just in case". The regulator is grounded through the ground wire in the harness, but also has contact with the frame of the bike in it's original mount. While there is no "official" recommendation to ground the body of the RR, I would recommend that if you are going to mount it to a piece of plastic, you run a ground wire to the mount of the RR to keep the RR's body grounded with the bike. Just a precaution...

I took one apart today and there is no electrical connection to the case of the R/R. Strictly thermal transfer. However, further heatsinking would be a great idea if you can't get it more air. It's s thermal disaster inside. Don't have to worry about grounding it.

Jon

HI JUST SEEN THE PICS OF YOUR BIKE AND YOUR R/R POSITION.
I THINK YOU MAY NOT ONLY HAVE A CLEARANCE PROBLEM BUT IT WOULD GET EVERY BIT OF MUD DIRT AND STONES THE BACK WHEEL COULD THROW AT IT AND IF IT GETS CAKED IN MUD OR DIRT THIS WILL INSULATE IT AND IT COULD COOK, I HAVE SEEN SOME IN THE STD. POSITION ON DEGOATED VN's WITH COMPUTER CPU COOLING FANS FIXED TO THEM, THEY RUN ON 12v AND THER ARE SOME QUITE FANCY ONES(EVEN WATER COOLED ONES,NOW THERES A THOUGHT)
GOOD LUCK IT LOOKS LIKE YOU ARE DOING A BEAUTIFUL JOB OF THE REBUILD

I think you're right EDALBRIS.
The more I look at the bike, think about it, and listen to the feedback on my position for the R/R, the more I'm thinking that it's not such a good spot. :doh:
I got the idea from my Z, but as you can see in the pics, it's mounted a lot higher up, and has A LOT more clearance on the Z750.

Even though I only plan on maybe having a collector pipe between the new exhausts to balance things, I don't think I'll return the R/R to the standard position under the battery box, as I still don't think it will get sufficient cool airflow there.
That's a great idea about rigging up a computers CPU cooling fan on the R/R, but it's a bit too much stuffing about with wiring and electrics for me.

Time to start searching for another spot.
:D

the only thing that i say about the computer fans are this.... 1 they draw added electricity, although it may be benificial b/c as components heat they are less efficent in the first place. so if the the draw from the fan is an actual added load, i wouldnt know with out testing.

Also keep in mind that the fan isnt weatherproof. i would just rather polish it and stick it up front.

Good point. Why add an additional electrical component when there is an abundance of natural cooling (called air)?

HI ALL
DON'T CPU FANS USE MINIMAL POWER AND THEY NEVER USED TO USE FANS BUT THEY FOUND THAT THE MORE YOU TRYED TO GET OUT OF THE CPU THE HOTTER IT GOT (THAT RINGS A BELL) OUR BIKES SEAM TO BE VERY POWER HUNGRY SO THIS COULD ONLY HELP I WOULD THINK.
COULD TEST FOR EXTRA LOAD OF FAN VERSES TEMP CHANGE, AS ITS THE TEMP THAT KILLS THE R/R, IF IT RUNS COOLER WITH THE SLIGHTLY HIGHER LOAD THEN I WOULD THINK ITS A BONUS ...ALSO WORKS WHILE STATIONARY.
THEY ALSO DO SOME REALY NICE BIG COPPER COOLING FINS AN STUFF FOR CPU's THEY MIGHT HELP.
JUST MY THOURGHTS ANYWAY.

The fans draw very little power and it would really be negligable on our electrical systems. However, as was said, they are not weather proof. CPU fans are not designed for out door use. Dust, water, and the like will take out the fan fairly soon. Now, if one could find a similar fan designed for outdoor use, then we would have something.
The water cooled units would add a bit in the electrical dept as the recirc pump would draw more than the normal CPU fan. There are some systems that use heat differences in the system to passively recirculate the water but given the temp extremes it would see on an outdoor system, I don't know how well this would work. Again, these systems are designed for indoor use in a somewhat controlled environment.

The fans draw very little power and it would really be negligable on our electrical systems. However, as was said, they are not weather proof. CPU fans are not designed for out door use. Dust, water, and the like will take out the fan fairly soon. Now, if one could find a similar fan designed for outdoor use, then we would have something.
The water cooled units would add a bit in the electrical dept as the recirc pump would draw more than the normal CPU fan. There are some systems that use heat differences in the system to passively recirculate the water but given the temp extremes it would see on an outdoor system, I don't know how well this would work. Again, these systems are designed for indoor use in a somewhat controlled environment.
he he.... comming from someone who used to build very high end PC units, one fan comes to mind on the power draw... vantec Tornado..... it is one of the most powerful and power hungry PC fans out there... 1.2 amps if i remeber right. anyway. the only reason i could see adding a fan is if you sit in traffic, with an aftermarket stator that charges at idle. down side is that it will hamper cooling at a normal run. i guess you could always attach it to a heat spreader and cool that...

EDALBRIS- our R/R gets hot burrning off excess voltage, not so much from electrical draw. our electrical system is very different then that of a car. In fact, taking the electrical system nearer to its limit is best, but then at idle you have a huge battery drain. the stator always produces 100% capacity, what isnt used, is burned in the R/R.

As i mentioned before, judt polish the darn thing, and move it to the front out in the open, it becomes another peice of chrome...well polished metal in this case ;)

'our R/R gets hot burrning off excess voltage, not so much from electrical draw. our electrical system is very different then that of a car. In fact, taking the electrical system nearer to its limit is best, but then at idle you have a huge battery drain. the stator always produces 100% capacity, what isnt used, is burned in the R/R.'

AH SHUNT DIODE

THIS WOULD MEAN THAT BY PUTTING IN A HIGHER OUT PUT STATOR YOU WOULD HAVE MADE YOUR PROBLEM WORSE NOT BETTER ..IS THIS THE CASE WITH YOURS?

AND RUNNING A HEAVY DRAW AUTOMATIVE FAN COULD HELP BY DRAWING POWER..OR NOT.....I DON'T KNOW.

Here's the new position I'm thinking of for the regulator/rectifier...Pic (http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=556&cat=539)

I'll be using pod type air filters, so I figured that I may as well utilize all the free space where the 'ears' used to be.
I didn't even need to make a bracket, as I used one of the mounting brackets from the stock air filter housing. :smiley_th

Enough air flow around the R/R should not be a problem.:D

Here's the new position I'm thinking of for the regulator/rectifier...Pic (http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=556&cat=539)

I'll be using pod type air filters, so I figured that I may as well utilize all the free space where the 'ears' used to be.
I didn't even need to make a bracket, as I used one of the mounting brackets from the stock air filter housing. :smiley_th

Enough air flow around the R/R should not be a problem.:D

Hey I like that. Does the stock wiring harness reach there?

So you only use one bolt to secure the r/r?

Jon

From a cooling point of view, it will work great. Asthetically, I'm not so sure. With the engine in it may look somewhat out of place but that is just my feelings. It's you bike so as long as it remains in the main air stream and gets cooing air, it should work just fine.

'our R/R gets hot burrning off excess voltage, not so much from electrical draw. our electrical system is very different then that of a car. In fact, taking the electrical system nearer to its limit is best, but then at idle you have a huge battery drain. the stator always produces 100% capacity, what isnt used, is burned in the R/R.'

AH SHUNT DIODE

THIS WOULD MEAN THAT BY PUTTING IN A HIGHER OUT PUT STATOR YOU WOULD HAVE MADE YOUR PROBLEM WORSE NOT BETTER ..IS THIS THE CASE WITH YOURS?

AND RUNNING A HEAVY DRAW AUTOMATIVE FAN COULD HELP BY DRAWING POWER..OR NOT.....I DON'T KNOW.

I havent noticed my r/r running much hotter then normal. but the again my stator runs differnt. i actually changed how its wound. i done seem to have the voltage extremes. i sit right around 12-13 VAC and it jumps up to 80 VAC, i tried taking it to redline, and didnt notice as large of a voltage jump after that. that is because to AFAIK the way voltage jumps on our charging style is very simmilar to a bell curve. there is little jump untill a certain rpm, then huge jumps untill a halfway point, then the jump shrinks again till it levels off
V..............._________
O............../
L............./
T.........../
S______/

............RPM

hope that helps.

Hey I like that. Does the stock wiring harness reach there?

So you only use one bolt to secure the r/r?

Jon

Yep, the R/R is attached to the bracket with one bolt. The bracket also runs about two thirds of the way along the back of the regulator/rectifier, which supplies some support for it as well. It feels pretty sturdy.

The standard wiring to the R/R won't reach that far, so i'll have to add a bit of length to it.