Howdy - Bought this on eBay after I blew my regulator/rectifier. Turns out that I hadn't also blown my stator:smiley_th , so now I have a spare stator that I hope I never, ever need (since I relo'd my r/r per the Forum members' instructions). If anyone needs a stator, I'll sell it for what I paid for it: $75 plus whatever shipping is (I'm guessing $10 for Priority Mail). I checked the leads with my multimeter and everything seems to be fine, per specs. Drop me an email at the Forum or my home email address (guimauve@adelphia.net) if you need the part. Elsewise, I'll just post it on eBay.

Thanks!

Iamyerfatha...

Go away, Darth! Don't you have a son somewhere whose in love with his own sister? :)

Okay, now that you're back: I'm going to lube the final drive splines this weekend. Question: o-ring, 2 cotter pins, and the Moby 60 grease...Home Despot, or do I have to go to my friendly cycle shop and wait 4 weeks for parts? :zzz:

Don't know about the o-ring, but the MOLY you can get at cycle shop or maybe a auto parts store, cotter pins are there too, I am guessing.:beerchug:

Oh, and aren't stators good forever...

I would keep it JUST IN CASE!:smiley_th

Yeah, a good stator in paw is worth two in george w.

As to moldy-60, welcome back pins, and a diamond ring, I SPOSE you can get them some place other than a bike barn. I never tried. The bikers here say Holy Moly about the Honda Moly. If the ingredients are the same (in same proportions), I'd be willing to guess that it works the same as well.

I thought stators were good forever, too, but you're right, Kait, that keeping a "spare" is probably not a bad idea. If someone needs one now, then I'm happy to sell; if not, then I guess I should be happy to store it safely somewhere while I memorize my Clymer manual for removing the engine.

I'll call my local service dude today and see what he can find for me in the way of pins and such. Too much reading the Forum last night, and I'm suddenly feeling like I should run home and lube the splines RIGHT NOW.:smiley_th

What were the resistance readings on the leads?

Cindy, you absolutely should LUBE THE SPLINES RIGHT NOW!

I took my bike to the shop and had them do it, nary a speck of lube on my splines... at least they weren't dusty and rusty like some I have read about, but dry, definitely.

And the stator, hang on to it for sure. Even if you don't need it some poor sod who didn't find us soon enough is going to come here crying for a stator and YOU will get to be the hero... :carryflag

kait:beerchug:

The resistance on the leads was well within specs - I don't have my Clymer's in front of me, but they were on-target with the recommendations in the manual. And the stator-that-didn't-blow (the one still on my bike) had the same readings, so I know that I was reading the multimeter correctly.

Kait, now I'm all fretting about these darned splines: I called my local shop, and they said "cotter pins, o-rings...call a Kawasaki dealer." A couple of questions in the dumb questions category: if I pull a cotter pin, I should replace it with a new one? Always? Or can I put it back? The o-ring I'm less concerned about, but the pins...that's another story (and worry).

The shop I go to didn't replace the cotter pin when they lubed my splines, but it was a BIG cotter pin and very sturdy... i think it is really about how it looks to you, does it look worn, did it take a lot of torque and twist to get it out? then yeah, I think you should change it, but if it came out easy and looks solid, I wouldn't worry about it. Order it so when you get it you can change it, but I wouldn't put off the work unless they are really damaged or compromised.

just my .02 worth
kait

The pin on the axle nut is pretty big, so that may be fine. I guess it's also the one on the brake drum torque rod that I was fretting about (seems smaller). But I still need to get a torque wrench, so I'll check for cotter pins while I'm out at Lowe's.

good luck in the search!

The one on the brake drum isn't a cotter pin, it's a, um, cotter clip? It just pulls out. The cotter pins you can get about anywhere. Auto parts stores are good for the big ones. Maybe a buck or so for a bunch of 'em. When I had my first bike, I'd always use a nail.

When I did mine, I didn't worry about the o-ring. When I got into it, turns out it was OK.

The big thing is the Moly lube.

I guess the trying part will be getting into the drive itself - after that, it's a cakewalk (well, then I've got to put the thing back together again). I'm writing down everything from the Forum in re: the lube, the torque wrench, etc. and plan to hit something (Lowe's, local hardware, bike shop) tomorrow after work. It's supposed to rain for the next two days :( , but I guess that'll give me time to take care of business (and mess it up, re-do it, try it again...). :hitanykey

Here's some info that gets asked a lot. "My tire doesn't drop enough." A couple of things - make sure the bike's center stand is on a block of wood. Dianna also said that you can remove the license plate instead. The other thing is to remove the passenger foot pegs. They hold up the goat's belly, which in turn prevents the swing arm from moving all the way down.

If you get stuck, get online. As long as you can accurately describe the problem, we should be able to walk you through it.

You have Fergy's instructions, right?

Yep, I have Fergy's instructions and someone's (Fergy's?) weblink with pics. That's really helpful, just to kinda see what it is I'm s'posed to be looking for in there.

Besides, what's the worst that can happen? I screw it up, part out the rest of my bike, and buy a new 750? Ha ha.