Not much of a joiner... don't blogg, gave up msn'inga few years back, the kids & grand kids never write much less message but we have loved our 750 and the good times we have had... untill... with less than 20,000 mi we have had nothing but trouble all this last year, don't trust her on any long runs.
On a happer note haven't scraped her yet :)
See ya on the surf (net)
blogg on!? :rockon:

Start asking questions and we'll get her all fixed up for ya! I just turned 18K on mine, it took a year off while it was in your state of problems, but I found this site and I know how to keep it going for at least 60K more.

If some of your problems have to do with starting the bike when it's warm, we got the answer. We know how to keep the charging system running, so you won't have to worry about replacing stators and regulator/rectifiers.

So welcome, and check for responses at least once a day, because we live for this stuff.

I'm flooding out under 8000 rpm, dies at stops unless I hold 2,500 or better. You can smell raw fuel out the exghaust. I have had it at the shop more than once and at more than one shop. The local dealer want to sell more than fix. The front jug is the trouble maker has some blueing on the pipes but the spark puugs get so wet it doesn't matter when I pull the wires. The sad part is I had the jug pulled to stop a water leak, the wrench said he did me a favor and cleaned my carbs, hasn't run right since. The next wrench put her on a dino and spent the whole day modifing the EPA just to get her to stop backfiring at 3000rpm. I'm at a loss... should I start at the carbs or pull the jug??? Got any clues??

Sounds like a float sticking on the left carb. What year is the bike?
I would not think the Jug, unles the wrentch really FUBARD, as to which I would say hit him with a wrench. Have you used Sea Foam, Great Carb and fuel cleaner. Hope this helps, keep us informed

Yeah, Chad is probably right. You should do two things, pull the carbs again, and clean them out real good, and then buy some SeaFoam, put it in your tank at 3 oz to a full tank of gas.

There are a lot of recent threads here about problems with carbs. Let's see if Photohap joins in - he's been having a lot of the same issues. Did your bike ever sit without any gas in the tank? Photohap's problems have been stemming from rust in the tank. SeFoam is such a good cleaner that it managed to knock loose more crud in the tank which eventually got back into the carbs. He just recoated the inside of the tank to prevent that problem. Here's the links to his misfortunes:
Rusty Tank (http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2240)
Surge and Backfire 1 (http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1942)
Surge and Backfire 2 (http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2225)

Here is a pic of SeaFoam that you can get at a lot of auto parts stores. NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, Pep Boys. Please believe us when we say this is the absolute best stuff for your fuel system. It's magical.
http://www.vn750.com/photopost/data/502/seafoam.jpg

Also, while you have your seat off, make sure your battery is maintenance free (gel cell, AGM). The batteries you can buy at places like WalMart and Autozone will fit the Vulcan, but are not made for the Vulcan. These MF batteries are a tad pricey, but if you experience backfires on starting, or the bike cranks perfectly but just won't start, then this investment will be well worth the price. The Vulcan Verses have the list of correct batteries, but here's the two we prefer:

WestCo (stock # 12V14L-B)
http://www.westcobattery.com/battery_page.php?bid=14&vid=1&mid=150

Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS
http://www.yuasabatteries.com

Sears also has an MF DieHard, stock number 44005, in case you want to get it right away.

As to the spline lube procedure, you can get there through the Motorcycle Tech pages in the links (menu above ^), or more directly, right here:
http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/writeups/final_drive.html
You'll need to check your splines soon, but get the bike running first.

As to the problem backfiring, here's some info from our Vulcan Verses about coastering:

Coastering is replacing the reed valves on each cylinder head with a 'coaster'. This is a metal plate that replaces the valve and plugs the port (same as a marble would do). Some people prefer the look and even polish their coasters.

The reed system has several negative impacts to performance and ride-ability, the worst of which is excessive backfiring during deceleration. Other impacts of this design are Exhaust Pipe bluing, excessive exhaust heat, and engine heat.

For more information regarding Coastering and how to reduce popping and backfiring, click HERE (http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1083)

If you haven't dug into the Vulcan Verses yet, I suggest you waste no time and do so ASAP. There is a lot of info relating to problems and solutions. The Verses are in RED in the middle of the main forum page (http://www.vn750.com/forum/index.php)

I would second the float needles stuck mentioned above. If you're smelling gas, plugs wet, etc. then something is causing the carbs to overflow. If someone messed with the carbs and then you had these problems, it sounds like they did more damage than good. I think you should open a thread in the Carburator forum and tell the story. There are folks here that can help. Good luck!

Where in South West Missouri? My home town is Joplin. Still have scads of family around there.

I'm flooding out under 8000 rpm, dies at stops unless I hold 2,500 or better. You can smell raw fuel out the exghaust. I have had it at the shop more than once and at more than one shop. The local dealer want to sell more than fix. The front jug is the trouble maker has some blueing on the pipes but the spark puugs get so wet it doesn't matter when I pull the wires. The sad part is I had the jug pulled to stop a water leak, the wrench said he did me a favor and cleaned my carbs, hasn't run right since. The next wrench put her on a dino and spent the whole day modifing the EPA just to get her to stop backfiring at 3000rpm. I'm at a loss... should I start at the carbs or pull the jug??? Got any clues??


I had the exact same problem and it was carb float valve needing replacing, check oil and see if there is gas in it. Drain it and it will be over filled because of gas getting in the oil. Mine also backfired and the air cleaner either smoldered of smoked.Both carbs use the same float. Go to RonAyers they are cheaper than bike bandit or with luck a shop in your area may have one.Good luck!Be sure to turn off gas when parked at least un til you get it fixed.

i had a very similiar problem with my bike. Cutting out in low rpms and smelled of gas and wet plugs. I posted my issue on the yahoo site and I was told to "burp" the carb. Drain the gas out of the gas tank. Put in a fresh gallon of gas treated with triple the regular solution of SeaFoam (3 oz treats a full tank of gas.)

To burp the carb, find a street you can ride on under regular power and turn the gas valve to the off position and let the bike run out of gas... then open it back up and restart the bike. Do this 4 or 5 times. After doing this, go to a gas station and fill the tank with two more gallons of gas. Run the bike with SeaFoam in every tank of gas for the next month or so.

This solved my problem. I put on 300 miles on it since I "burped" the carbs and have no problems.... no back firing, no unspent gas, 55 mpg and a smooth idle.

I was fighting this problem for 700 miles before I did this.

Cheap fix.