I am having the problems associated with worn out ACCT's. I wasn't sure 100% but after dissasembling one and preloading the spring a couple twists the nosies etc. went away. I know that won't last, just a test and the springs are shot anyway. But, reading other threads, I saw someone mention that they had preloaded new replacment springs. Doesn't twisting on a spring weaken it? Or is a little ok? I was curious. Anyway I want to get the manual tensioners from APE (don't know how to make a link!) but seem to only be able to order by calling - and I work 12 hours when they are open. How did anyone get theirs? Different site than the ZXZONE.com?

hi there i bought mine off of ebay just search under ape cam chain tensioner and he is in the ebay stores. he also has a website under victory lane motorsports you can purchase them from also. his ebay user id is vlm194

just an F.Y.I. for those thinking of getting the manual tensioners. because of reduce clearances for the rear cylinder caused by the coolant reservoir tank , have them shorten the bolt on the tensioner for that cylinder. i know others have requested that from them and they will do it. they might even know how much to shorten it. others in this forum or the yahoo group might know too.
just thought you might want to know. ride safe, john

just an F.Y.I. for those thinking of getting the manual tensioners. because of reduce clearances for the rear cylinder caused by the coolant reservoir tank , have them shorten the bolt on the tensioner for that cylinder. i know others have requested that from them and they will do it. they might even know how much to shorten it.

Good point you brought up. I never really thought about that.


Doesn't twisting on a spring weaken it?
The twisting action is what makes them work.
I don't know if it weakens the spring, but if they don't twist, they don't turn the screw, so they don't adjust anything.
I believe there has to be a certain amount of preload for proper tension.
I gave mine (that I just replaced a couple of days ago) about 1 turn before screwing the plunger down.

the TOC springs don't need a preload because they are slightly stronger than stock. If preloading the stock springs work, than that should be good for awhile (although it tricky to preload without hearing the spring spin in the tentioner during assembly). Its not hard to get remove&replace them (easier than the final drive).

has kawasaki redesigned the acct's, had both of mine replaced under extended warranty and they are smaller than the origionals. my mech. also said he thought kawa fixed that problem.

REALLY? Can you post a pic? Do you know how much they cost?

has kawasaki redesigned the acct's, had both of mine replaced under extended warranty and they are smaller than the origionals. my mech. also said he thought kawa fixed that problem.

The part #'s are still the same on Kawi's parts list.
Maybe next years model will have a newly designed one ?

Thanks for the tip about purchasing from ebay - the're on the way. Another question though. After I fiddled with my front cyl. ACCT and put it back on, I noticed something about making sure the cyl. was at TDC....I have no idea of the timing, I took the tensioner off and simply reinstalled it...then read the instructions. The bike runs like a top as usual - minus the noise. Was I just lucky or is it not that important to have the piston at TDC?? I really don't see the point, once the tensioner is on and the bike is running again you simply adjust (per a prior thread) the noise away. Right?

Was I just lucky or is it not that important to have the piston at TDC??
It seems to be one way some people do it.
I didn't put the cyls. at TDC either.
IMO, it shouldn't make much of a difference as long as ya don't turn the engine over while the ACCT's are out.

Different strokes for different folks

The only problem you may run into when pullng the ACCT without the piston at TDC is that the cams are under tension from the valve springs and with the cam chain tension removed the cams may slip causing the valve timing to be off which can lead to major engine damage as these are what are called "interference" engines. This means that if the valves are not in the proper timing sequence with the piston, they will contact the piston and either punch a hole in the piston or be bent from the contact.
If you were able to do the ACCT maintenance without the cams slipping, don't sweat it. The main reason to go to TDC is so that the chance of cam slippage is 0.

Well I got one of my new manual tensioners yesterday and, well, it looks just like the picture. I guess thats good! The instructions on the package say nothing about TDC only to install with the threaded rod screwed out and then while slowly rotating the engine, tighten the threaded rod until you feel the cam tensioner assy. rubbing on the chain and then tighten 1/4 turn and lock it down. If I'm spinning the engine, the piston being at TDC is a moot point then isn't it? Also, this sounds dumb, but I can turn the engine by putting the trans in 1st or 2nd and turning the rear wheel like you're push starting it? (well,except I won't be having a cardiac arrest like I thought I was when I did push start it a couple times! 500 lb. bike that felt the same weight as my S-10 pickup.)

The part #'s are still the same on Kawi's parts list.
Maybe next years model will have a newly designed one ?

They look the same as the others, just smaller and as far as the cost I have know idea.

My mechanic has replaced the acct on a few 750's with the new kawi springs, and says he's yet to see one come back with problems. My bike goes in next week for new springs. Getting the slapping sound on the back cylinder.

My bike goes in next week for new springs. Getting the slapping sound on the back cylinder.

Hope that quiets things down for ya.

I just replaced mine with the TOC springs and things couldn't be quieter in there now !!

Just to throw in my 2 cents. I bought 2 sets of toc springs. For some reason, the acct spring on the left side kept breaking. I made a manual replacement with a nut welded on a 1/8 plate cut to form. The bolt used was a stove bolt, slightly ground down to fit. It worked good, except on the right side the angle allows oil to leak because of the angle. I ended up buying the 1 ape manual acct and installing it on the right side. Believe me, it is worth the money to put this problem behind me. They are not cheap, but are well worth the money.

Anyone know of a set of instructions for putting the APE tensioners in? I've got mine on order, but am mechanically mediocre and cautious.

here you go
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1079
there is a lot of info in the verses