Finally, I got it running! Thanks to all those that got me this far. Finally, I got it running! Thanks to all those that got me this far. :notworthy The problem now is that at low speeds there is a pretty loud Knocking sound, it sounds like it's coming from the front cylinder. I read in some older posts about some kind of ACCT cover. What is it, and where is it. I can't find any reference to it in my clymer's, or Hayne's manual.

I'm missing a couple of digits from a run in with a table saw,:BLAM: ( and the others left aren't exactly great at fine dexterity type work) so my manual dexterity isn't what it could be. Is the "winding of the spring" once I find out where the bugger is located" something that requires a lot of finesse? The other thing is, there is mention of a "special Clymer's tool" does anyone know where I can find one? If it is one that you make, is it difficult, and require special skills? If so, does anyone want to sell me one. Like I said, I don't have the dexterity or tools to make anything too accurately. I can grip the clutch OK, because that doesn't entail any fine work, but when you don't have any feeling in the ends of your fingers..... well, it would amaze you at the problems that causes. It is even hard to work a screwdriver, or start a screw. I'm actually forced to start doing things with my right hand, like the rest of the world. Not as easy as you would think, after 40+ years of doing it with the "correct" (left) hand.

I hope that it's a minor problem. It is definately a pretty loud knocking, but it seems to be running great.... just that knock knock knock........... I only rode it around the block, and stopped, because I didn't want to damage anything. Knock knock knock....it begins to feel like fingers on a chalk board....knock knock knock...... know what I mean?

Thanksa gain for all your help. As soon as the wife isn't looking ( an accountant, and very tight with the money), I'm going to be a site supporter. You guys are great, and I know I've saved a LOT more than the $15.00 that I am sending in.

Bob The problem now is that at low speeds there is a pretty loud Knocking sound, it sounds like it's coming from the front cylinder. I read in some older posts about some kind of ACCT cover. What is it, and where is it. I can't find any reference to it in my clymer's, or Hayne's manual.

I'm missing a couple of digits from a run in with a table saw, ( and the others left aren't exactly great at fine dexterity type work) so my manual dexterity isn't what it could be. Is the "winding of the spring" once I find out where the bugger is located" something that requires a lot of finesse? The other thing is, there is mention of a "special Clymer's tool" does anyone know where I can find one? If it is one that you make, is it difficult, and require special skills? If so, does anyone want to sell me one. Like I said, I don't have the dexterity or tools to make anything too accurately. I can grip the clutch OK, because that doesn't entail any fine work, but when you don't have any feeling in the ends of your fingers..... well, it would amaze you at the problems that causes. It is even hard to work a screwdriver, or start a screw. I'm actually forced to start doing things with my right hand, like the rest of the world. Not as easy as you would think, after 40+ years of doing it with the "correct" (left) hand.

I hope that it's a minor problem. It is definately a pretty loud knocking, but it seems to be running great.... just that knock knock knock........... I only rode it around the block, and stopped, because I didn't want to damage anything. Knock knock knock....it begins to feel like fingers on a chalk board....knock knock knock...... know what I mean?

Thanksa gain for all your help. As soon as the wife isn't looking ( an accountant, and very tight with the money), I'm going to be a site supporter. You guys are great, and I know I've saved a LOT more than the $15.00 that I am sending in.

Bob

In case an ACCT repair fixes your problem. I found using a 1/4 ratchet with a small flat blade bit, I was able to wind up the spring, then hold the whole assembly easily (ratchet & ACCT) with one hand in order to place up against the cylinder and secure.

The ratchet lets you wind up the spring, then orient the ratchet handle so that it is facing out away from the bike. Difficult to explain, will be very obvious if you try it.

Still have the question of what is it and where is it? There is no ACCT in either of my manuals.

Can anyone tell me how to find it? Does the knocking I described sound like the "ACCT spring thing" problem?

thanks
Bob

Bob -

Take a look here http://ourworld.cs.com/moonmist115/tensioners.html

and here http://hometown.aol.com/raysvulcan/PDF/cct.pdf

Jon

Thanks! Where exactly do I look on the motor to find this part. The photo is dark in the second web page, so it's kind of hard to tell. The pages you sent, at least give me an idea of what they do, and how to fix them, now I need to find them.

Thanks again
Bob

Each ACCT is on the back of the cylinder. It sticks out about 2 inches and has two bolts that hold them to the cylinder. You have to remove the coolant tank to see/get to the rear one.

You need to bend an oil line mounting tab out of the way to remove the front one. Bend it slowly and gently and you should be able to bend it back to install the front ACCT.

...I'm missing a couple of digits from a run in with a table saw...

I hear ya Bob. I had a slight run in with a lawnmower when I was 12 or so. Some things are so easy, when ya have all the pieces !!
For me the biggest pain in the butt is I have to customize all the lefthand gloves I get so I don't have a couple of loose fingertips floppin' around in the way of everything. Workin' the clutch on the Vulcan isn't too bad, but it's a bit tougher on the dirtbike !!


Sounds like a good idea Jon mentions about the ratchet. That should make things a little easier.
Good luck on your fix.

.

Yeah, I don't know what's harder to work around, the missing stuff, or the stuff they sewed back that really has no feeling.

I'm going to try the wratchet idea. I just hope I don't get it off, and not be able to put it back in. My question is, what am I doing to the spring when I take it out, "wind it" and put it back in? Does that give the spring more compression? It sounds like it will compress the spring more, and push against the chain less? Maybe I'm thinking backwards?

Thanks
Bob

Bob -

You may find that the spring is broken. Mine was. You'll need to order up a new one. Try here http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/ACCT.htm if so.

New spring came wih directions, but there are plenty of ACCT spring install atricles around.

Jon

The round-headed plunger extends but will not retract when assembled. The spring's job is to uncurl thereby "unscrewing" the plunger and forcing into contact with the internal tensioner carriage.

The back end of the plunger assembly has a standard type screw head that is captured by the rear end of the spring. The forward end of the spring has an "ear" that extends past the outer spring diameter and is captured by a channel in the ACCT housing. So that when compressed (wound) the spring is constantly turning the plunger outwards.

Apparently, this spring becomes weakened over time and unable to exert sufficient pressure to actually provide tension. The fix is to prewind the spring before locking the plunger into position. The plunger is then wound further into the ACCT housing into a fully closed position.

The special tool, ratchet, right angle screwdriver, whatever is then used in the back end to hold the spring and plunger in place until the entire assembly is reinstalled on the motor. You then remove the tool locking the spring/plunger in place and the spring unwinds driving the plunger into tensioner assembly with (hopefully) more force than when you removed it.

It was a pain in the ass the first time I did and I have all my digits, the second time was much easier. Just take it nice and slow and do a few low tension dry runs to make sure you are winding and assembling it correctly before you go for the full effort. I didn't and exploded my spring due to impatience the first time =(

Good job explaining it Repairman !
I didn't really understand how it worked till I had mine apart. Then I realized, it doesn't act like a "pushing" or "pulling" spring at all.
My one buddy on a Shadow still can't comprehend it !!

Thanks Hyper, glad I didn't muff it too bad. After I posted I wondered if that explanation could ever be coherent =)

made sense....even to me:notworthy

Would it make sense to just order the replacement springs, or try the "fix" first and see if there is any damage?

bk

you can try the fix first - no parts needed.

In that case you may want to leave the oil line support bent away from the front ACCT - it really doesn't need it because the other supports make it solid. This way you can easily go back and do it again if you replace the spring.