I have a 96 that will not idle. It starts fine and runs well on the highway. This bike was not actively ridden for the past three years. However it was started and ridden around the neighborhood from time-to-time.

I found the idle stop cable was broke and replaced it. I was sure this would fix the problem. It did not… I have tried the Sea foam and put in new plugs.

I have to crank the idle up to above 2K but any thing below that and it will slowly idle down and quit.

I guess my next step is to pull the carbs and clean them out but that is a last resort.

Any ideas?

Thanks for any and all help.

If it runs OK when you are on the move & you're having to crank the idle up that high I would say the pilot jets are blocked. If they turn out to be OK then something else that could be worth checking is that the rubbers between the carbs & the engine are not split & allowing air to get in. The same goes for any other vacuum hoses around the carbs.
Hope this helps.:beerchug:

I'm with Ernie. When I purchased my wife's 94, it did the same. Once it started (with the choke) and got it out on the road it ran well, ok. But it would not idle on it's own.

I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs. And it's been great ever since!

By the way, the only reason you're excused from NOT riding as much is if you're on duty! Thanks for your service!

yep, I'm betting on pilot jets clogged.

Well I guess I will pull the carbs, give them the once over and see what happens. I placed my order for a repair manual yesterday, I’m sure it will pay for its self. One thing for sure…This undertaking will have to wait till after vacation. :beerchug: :zzz: :beerchug: :zzz:

Thanks for the replies!!!

If you can, get both the Kaw manual and the Clymers. Both have their strengths and seem to fill in for each others weak areas. I use both extensively.

do you hapen to have a picture or photo of vacuum hose lay out or connections...I seem to have a disconnected hose and can't find a place for it. thanks

Go to Kawasakis web site under Owner Info, Parts Diagrams. All of the micro fiche diagrams are there and you will see where the hoses are supposed to connect.
There are only two actual vaccuum hoses coming off the carbs. One goes to the fuel petcock and the other is for California bikes or those which have the evaportive fuel system installed. This line goes to the charcoal canister to draw gas fumes from the tank for recircualation.

How much do the kits cost ??? Any idea?And , if you know how long will it take to do a carb job?

I started working on the bike today. So far the only thing I have found is that the “Slow Jets” were blocked…

It is a pain in the rear to pull the carbs on this bike! It can, however be done!

More to follow.

It is a pain in the rear to pull the carbs on this bike! It can, however be done!

Yeah, they are crammed in there pretty good. Glad ya figured it out.
Good luck with everything.


.

Ok after tearing into the carbs and cleaning them they are ready to be reinstalled. I injured my back at work last week so I have not been able start on this till tonight.

I need any and all hints on how to get the carbs back in…

Anyone who has ever pulled their carbs will know what I am up against.

I'm curiously lurking as I've looked at those carbs and thought "How?!" considering my old 440's were a nightmare the first time, but now that I figured out the system i can get them off in about 5 mins on in about 10.

Well I was hoping someone would come on and post a trick for getting these carbs back in… I just can’t seem to get them on the intake boots. I am running out of skin on my knuckles…

Ok, after wrestling the bike into submission, she is back together. I still need to adjust the throttle and choke cables but the good news is…it idles!!! Can I get a “hell yea!”?

I just had to make a quick trip around the house, kind of a victory lap. It ran fine. I hope to wring it out good this weekend!

Hell Yea !!!
http://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/cool/cool035.gif

Glad ya got 'em P.W. !!
Victory Is yours !!!

Hell yeah! =D

Ok gang here is a postscript to the “Hell Yea”. When I finished reinstalling the carbs I got to the point of needing to readjust the choke and throttle cables but I did start it and ride it around the yard. So the next day after work, and doing a brake job on my daughter’s car, I set the cables by the Clymer manual. Once that was done I took the bike out on the road. Well it didn’t take long to determine something was wrong. The bike ran great on the low end but had no power what so ever on the top end. This was just the opposite of what I started with.

The problem went like this. Twist the throttle and you begin to move out, then as you continue to twist the throttle it has less and less effect. As if it is starving for fuel or the throttle is not working.

Well I had a hunch I knew what it was. When rebuilding the carbs I had a problem with the Vacuum piston / diaphragm assembly. The diaphragm did not want to seal properly but I thought I had them in right. Nothing to do but pull the carbs yet again! Well that was part of the problem. Another thing was the spring seat for the needle jet. You need to pay attention to the hole in the bottom of the Vacuum piston / diaphragm assembly, there are two. One is for the needle and the other hole is to allow for air pressure differential, which is what moves the diaphragm up and down. I am not sure I checked this before reinstalling them the first time.

Once I fixed these, the bike runs like it should!

If you rebuild or clean your carbs pay particular attention to these areas. I used a very small amount of gasket sealer to help hold my diaphragm in place during instillation.

The wife and I took the bake out last night for a about 45 miles and it has never ran better!

Thats good to hear !!!
And look at the good side, now if some says, "Now I have to pull the carbs !"
You can laugh at them and say "Ha, it's easy after ya do it a few times !!"

Yea... Just "had" mine cleaned, and for $430.00 I think that I will do it next time!!!

bleeding knuckles.... 430 in my pocket.

tough call.......... NOT

Hey Pink Willie, glad you got your bike running good again. Those pilot jets (slow jets) are prone to that if the bike sits for very long, probably because of the minimal size of the openings, easy to get gelled up and clogged.

I've (knock on wood) never had to remove my carbs on the 750 yet. But I learned something on my KZ the other night. I had to pull the carbs for about the 5th time since I've had it, this time to replace the rubber manifolds on the engine side. Someone on the KZ forum had suggested a trick he uses, where he folds the air ducts back over themselves, kindof like you do when you fold your socks. It gives you more room to work with the carbs to remove them, and on installing them, to get them mated into the manifolds. Well, I gave it a try and not only did it make removing them a breeze, but when I put them back on, after I got the carbs mated to the manifolds, I started to unfold the air duct for #1 and pop, it unfolded its self right over the carb air input. I thought "ha, that will never happen again" as I reached for #2, but sure enough as I started to unfold #2 it popped right into place. Same with 3 and 4. I still had to slide the spring clamp over the ends but I was really amused at how easy it was. Unfortunately, I don't know how this relates to pulling the carbs on the 750 since I've never done it, but I sure hope it is similar! If not, then this is one of those sucky stories that make you want to smack the guy telling it...

My carbs seem ok now that I have replaced the float valve. Although , I haven't got it to start just right.It tries to start imediately and dies just as fast. The choke does nothing ,maybe kills it. After four tries it may start. If I throttle it it dies also. After I finally get it to start( 4 or so attempts) , no problems.I just do not want starter problems too.
This 1996 750 also sat too much and had only 3200 mis. when I bought it.
Any solutions, or ideas?

Hi!
Maybe synchronization? If You dissasemble
carburators You should synchronize them.

Regards!