The yahoo group/forum favorite is without a doubt the Metzeler ME880. I have 'em and love 'em. For a great price try: www.ronayers.com

The "best bang for the buck" tire is the Dunlop D404. I recently put a set on my buddies Yam V-Star 1100 and really like the handling/stability. I probably would have bought these had they been available in our sizes last year. The best price I've seen on these is from:
www.discountmotorcycletire.com

wonder if the dunlop oem tire is a big deal if the front is on backwards, the tread on these seems backwards when on correct, but mine is on backwards according to rotational arrow. been on for a few thousand miles, would it hurt the tire to turn it around? or should I just let it be.

Beavis,

I don't know if belt strength/integrity would be harmed by reversing the direction. A problem I can think off would be evacuating water. If it's an old rib design then it's probably no big deal. If it's a more modern tread block design then it going to "pump" water out if installed correctly or possibly hydro plane if on backwards. I would shoot-off an e-mail to Dunlop to find out.
You can get a new Dunlop D404 (100/90-19) for $45 + shipping from: www.discountmotorcycletire.com

Rotational arrow is because of the way the tire is constructed. Is has to do with the way that they overlap the tread rubber. Under hard braking for the front, over time the overlap can separate. Put it the right way as soon as you can.

I Did turn it around correct. dont know why I dreaded it, was piece of cake. but I cheated, i took off the wheel and took it to tire dealer, they charged me a whopping 5.00 to dismount and remount, best 5 i spent all week.
thanks for the advise

also glad I did, there was a missing axle retainer bolt! if the nut got loose, it would be hard to drive with no front wheel, even though ive seen it done, dont think I would be very good at it LOL.

beavis

Glad you got it done so easy...and found about the bolt. Better now than the hardway...lol

what are the recommended tire pressures front and rear for the Metz ME880's ?

what are the recommended tire pressures front and rear for the Metz ME880's ?Fr=36psi
Rr=40psi
...according to the Metz fitment guide. I run those pressures, and my last set lasted me 21,000mi.

I too run Metz recommended 36psi front and 40 rear. I have 5K on mine and they look new. Though I still like the Dunlop 404 because it's such a great value. I put a set on my buddies V-Star 1100 and they're great! They weren't made in the VN750 sizes back when I bought my Metz.

Wow, from www.ronayers.com - The Dunlop D404 front is now $39.88 and the rear is $61.71! Total, with shipping, to your front door = $113.59!!!

hey bruce ; ordered the dunlops for my 2001 from ronayers, great web site,was wondering if there is a tried and true method for balancing .i plan on mounting the new 404's myself.do the stick on weights work out well? what would a dealer charge to balance them? ken in penfield,ny.

I don't know the best method for balancing. I bring my wheels to a guy who has a very nice electronic Snap-On brand balancer that does a static and dynamic balance - it works very well and he's cheap $15/wheel (for mount & balance). He does use stick on weights where applicable and they've been holding fine on my Bikes for yrs now. You might want to ask around at your local bike night about someone in your area that does balancing or maybe find some local racers - they always seem to know. I have no idea what a dealer charges just for balance but how much could it be? Here in the Detroit area the average price for a mount AND balance (wheels off the bike) is $43/tire - ouch!

Putting another set of Avon tires on my 95 model. I got 20,000 miles out of the first set that I put on it, so I'm going with them again. I just really like the tires. Bear (my wife) got 19,000 out of a set of Avons on her Suzuki Marauder this past set, and we're going to put another set on hers too. She didn't get half that much with Dunlops. My son just switched to Avons on his Softail, and really likes them so far compared to the Dunlops he used to run. I've got to say though, I got over 20,000 miles out of a set of Bridgestone tires that had run 11,000 on my 03 model (they came on it), and 9,500 on my 95 model. They still have a little life in them, but not much. I'm going to put them on my 90 project bike (bar-hop bobber) that I hope to get on the road this winter, to finish them off. (Read: Burnouts, whenever I get a chance.)

I mount and balance my own tires on both bikes. Both procedures are pretty primitive, but they work. There are photos at:
http://www.cdthayer.com/cruisermaint_5.htm#750_Tire

Being out in the "sticks" with no bike shops for miles helps justify the need for primitive. I even carry a tire iron on my VN750 (which-ever one I have running at the time) to do tire mounting on the road-side if I ever need to do so. Hopefully, I won't ever have to use it, but, why leave home without it?
I haven't ever tried the Metzeler 880, but I still vote for the Avon Venom-X.

primitive, hmm, looks high tech compared to how i break beads, i sandwich
the tire between the bottom of my trailer and a miniature floor jack and
that usually does the trick, as it breaks just before the trailer lifts up..



btw, where are you guys getting the 40 psi for the rear tire? i looked in the fitment guide and converted teh bar readings to psi and it came to something like 32....so where is the 40 listed? link to guide and page number is appreciated.

Beavis,

Your way sounds like it will work just fine.

I usually break the bead on my VN750 front tire by using a small bench vise. The tire is narrow enough to fit between the jaws for the squeeze. The only problem is, sometimes I can't get the second bead to break that way, and have to use the lever method to finish the job.



I run 32 psi in my rear tire, even when I have my bike fully loaded with camping gear. My tires seem to wear fine with that pressure year-around.

CD in Frederick, OK

btw, where are you guys getting the 40 psi for the rear tire? i looked in the fitment guide and converted teh bar readings to psi and it came to something like 32....so where is the 40 listed? link to guide and page number is appreciated.


Can't help here...you have to go to their website and go to the fitmit page...which is being redone...they have a link to a PDF file of their 2005 catalog...you can download that and then go to page 21 or so and look up the VN 750 under Kawasaki..
Anyway ..it quite CLEARLY says 36 front 40 rear for the 880's and it is PSI ..
Hey, would I lie to you?

KM

primitive, hmm, looks high tech compared to how i break beads, i sandwich
the tire between the bottom of my trailer and a miniature floor jack and
that usually does the trick, as it breaks just before the trailer lifts up..



btw, where are you guys getting the 40 psi for the rear tire? i looked in the fitment guide and converted teh bar readings to psi and it came to something like 32....so where is the 40 listed? link to guide and page number is appreciated.

Do different tires require different pressures? The VN750 service manual page 9-3 says that the front tire pressure should be 28 psi. and the rear pressure with a load under 215 lb. should also be 28 psi. or 32 psi. with a load over 215 lbs. The manual specifically mentions Dunlop and Metzeler tires.

Normally, the tire manufacturers are pretty close to the same recommended inflation value for each tire size, but not always. The vehicle manufacturer will give a specific inflation value for the tire brand(s) it intends to send out on the new vehicle.

The answer to your question is "yes", the correct inflation value is decided by the tire manufacturer, and can vary from application to application. A good example, is putting floatation tires on trucks or equipment, instead of the standard tires that comes on it out of the factory. Each type of tire is designed to operate best at a specific inflation value depending on the application. Usually though, all that the tire manufacturer gives you along with the tire, is the maximum inflation value or limit. You have to research what inflation value is recommended by the "after market" tire manufacturer for your specific application.


CD in Frederick, OK

36 PSI front and 40 PSI rear will add treadlife to your tires over what Kaw states in the owners manual. And yes, those are the figures Metzeler is recommending.

I found this sight, little Cheeper that Ronayers. Saves about $20 on a set ov Metzeler http://www.americanmototire.com/

looking at getting some metz 880's, is there anyway to go larger than stock on the rear in width. if not what is keeping it back. i dont mind trimming a bolt if needed ;)

I don't think those prices are right anymore. I went there and it was 138.00. Anyway my real question is what does D404 150/90-15 WWW R-STAR REAR mean. This tire is $6 more dollars then the other one. Which one do you go with.

WWW Wide White Wall. I ordered a set of D404 for mine today, just over $120 for the pair at cruisercustomizing.com

Just got my Metzler's in last week. Can't wait to get 'em on.

Put my new Metzlers on and got a ride in. I like the 110 on the front still able to throw into turns fast, but feels like it stickes like glue. These are great, now I Know why they are highley recomended. Can't wait to see the tred life, stock tires only lasted about 11 K. Hope to see you on the road.

Im looking for a new set of tires and i found some made by Avon. Now has anyone tried the Venom X's before, because i need to find a wide white wall tire and these are the one of them that i have found. Just looking for some info from someone who has owned them before.

Does anyone know what tire pressures Dunlop reccommends for our application ?

...Now has anyone tried the Venom X's before, because i need to find a wide white wall tire and these are the one of them that i have found...

I run Avon VenomX tires on my Vulcans, and really like them. They're my choice of tire, but I never have seen a VenomX with wide whitewalls. It must be a different tire than I'm using...

CD in Frederick, OK

Does anyone know what tire pressures Dunlop reccommends for our application ?
http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/fitmentguide.asp

check out this site

Hey Bruce what tire pressures did you run in the Dunlops ?????

sorry already asked that question.............thanks b-man

bruce , that was cool! thanks

Anyone run the Elite 3 on their bike.......if so what ya think?? Put 2 on today $257.87 installed........hopin to get better miles with them compared to the 404's.

I've noticed that the general consensus is that the Dunlop D404s are considered the best "bang for the buck" and the Metzlers ME880s are considered the best performing tires available for the vn750. Would anyone who has ridden on both sets of tires, like to compare them?
Thanks,
Jer

I would have bought the Metzlers but they didn't have them in stock and I needed tires then......the back tire was showing cord. Didn't want the 404's again just was not happy with them at all so I got the Elite 3's. So far I like them but time will tell.

I have the Elite 2's, RWL.
I like them & they've lasted quite awhile. Don't have any clue as to how many actual miles I've put on them, but my one buddy has put 2 sets of tires on his Nighthawk since I've put the Elite 2's on the Vulcan, and we've done about the same amount of ridin'.
They'll definatly be needing changed this year though.

I have two ME880's on order from the local KAW dealer and can't wait to get em on. Wouldn't you know the rear tire is on back order, supposed to come in this Friday. The KAW gave me a very reasonable price but I have to admit that I'm not ballsy enough yet to replace my own tires.
I know I need to get new valve stems also but I was wondering it is typical for the dealer to re-grease the rear spline when replacing tires right?????
Is what I've heard about new tires being a little slippery on traction correct or is that a bit of urban legend???

If your dealer is going to check the splines, DON'T STOP HIM. Let them grease them. The repair for a worn out final drive is prohibitive (up to $1k). If they weren't going to, have them do it. Ask them one way or the other.
New tires come with a perservative coating that makes them a bit slippery when you first ride on them after install. It's not that bad but enough that you need to be aware of it. Take it easy on them for the first 100 miles or so. You'll notice them getting "stickier" as you ride.

yes they are kinda slick.... just dont do anything extreme and ur fine... when i get mine i plan to lightly rough them up with some 120 grit sand paper....just enough to take that shine off.

Hey JohnBoy, how much did you pay for the tires individually, and together?
kait

My bike is to new for new tires yet.But I think I will put on the bridgstones again they work really good for me...............

Hey Hizzo3,

Sorry its taken a while to get back to ya. The tires from the dealer are $103 (front) and $149 (rear) with $90 for installation. Again it would be much cheaper to do them myself but don't have the time and so far not the confidence to do them myself sooooooo this is the next viable option.

with $90 for installation.
:wow:
I'm guessin' you had them (the dealer) take the wheels off the bike?

I went to my local KAW dealer a few days ago to inquire about tires and he can't/won't get Metzlers. I told him they can be had all over the net. His distributor doesn't stock them, or something.

He did quote me a price if I provide my own tires.

I can take him 2 new ME880's and my bike and a hundred dollars later get them back mounted and balanced. Turnkey, I just provide the tires. Probably what I'll do in the next few thousand miles.

I've got about 11,000 on the stock tires and they still look good though.

jeff
------------------

You'll need a new back one at about 14K. When you get it, get that bigger size (170 - I think). You'll be able to do highway speeds at 500 rpm less. I'm at 19.5K, and it's almost time for a new front one. I'll be getting the 110/90 to get the speedometer to where it needs to be. I keep finding myself driving my car at 77 thinking I'm only doing 70.

I can take him 2 new ME880's and my bike and a hundred dollars later get them back mounted and balanced. Turnkey, I just provide the tires. Probably what I'll do in the next few thousand miles.


For that price (a little less actually), I bought my own manual tire changer. Within the next couple months I'll finally have the chance to use it on the streetbike. Works great on the dirtbike & car/truck tires, so I don't expect any troubles.

For that price (a little less actually), I bought my own manual tire changer. Within the next couple months I'll finally have the chance to use it on the streetbike. Works great on the dirtbike & car/truck tires, so I don't expect any troubles.

i plan to do the same... i am gonna get tire changing tools, and make my own bead breaker.... what is everyone that change their own tires use for lube when working with the beads? then i plan to find a bike speed shop and have them do a digital ballance on it. then i will put that slime stuff in there that helps with ballance and prevents puntures (the one that is safe for alum rims, cant remeber the namebrand)

Ride on?

what is everyone that change their own tires use for lube when working with the beads?
I bought some lube made for changing tires at a local supply shop. Slippery as snot !! Don't remember the name brand off hand.
Before that, I used Murphy's Oil soap slightly diluted w/ H²O.

You'll need a new back one at about 14K. When you get it, get that bigger size (170 - I think). You'll be able to do highway speeds at 500 rpm less. I'm at 19.5K, and it's almost time for a new front one. I'll be getting the 110/90 to get the speedometer to where it needs to be. I keep finding myself driving my car at 77 thinking I'm only doing 70.

I have already decided to get the 110 for the front for the same reason. Based on your post, do you already have a 170 on the back?

No. Unfortunately, I didn't find this site until 4K after I bought a Michelin (this site didn't actually exist at that time). I did research it, and found some guys from Motorcyclist had taken their bikes someplace with snow, and they really liked the Michelin over the other brands. I wish I had at least known about the rpm reduction - I do a lot of driving up and down I-30.

I bought a D 404 110 90 19 for my front tire. I have an '86 vulcan. Should the bigger tire be alright with my '86 front fender?

I bought a D 404 110 90 19 for my front tire. I have an '86 vulcan. Should the bigger tire be alright with my '86 front fender?

Well, the stock size is 100/90-19, and if you have the 110 on there now, anything larger might be a tight fit.
I believe the 110 series gets the speedo more inline with accurate readings as compared to the 100.

I did a quick look through the Verses, and checked at the Y! site, but didn't find much info for front tire sizes.

I have an '86 Vulcan. I bought a D-404 110 / 90 / 19 for the front.
Will this tire fit ok? Will the oem front fender be able to handle the bigger tire?

Ah, I misunderstood your first post.
I thought you had the 110 on now and wanted to know if a larger one than that would fit.
The 110 tire should work fine, and make your speedo more accurate (but might make the odo be off a little bit)

:notworthy Do you mean that my odometer will read 112 miles?

With the 100 tires (stock), the speedo shows a lower than actual speed.
(most all speedo's do this)
Going to a 110, the speedo should be closer to actual, but (I think it was Hizzo that mentioned) the odometer (the display of miles driven) may be off.
So if a known trip regulary was showing 50 miles, it now may show 50.5 miles
Shouldn't be too much of a difference, but some. Nothing to really worry about.
The 110 tire should work just fine for ya. :smiley_th

I recently put a new rear tire on my VN750. I went to the local Kaw dealer, and asked for the dunlop OEM tire. They gave me the tire, and I put it on.

After driving it a few hundred miles, it has developed a noticable drift to the right. I have to fight to keep it going straight. Tonight, I looked at my tire, and noticed they gave me a D405. The numbers are so small, I hadn't noticed. It's a 150/90-15.

I've looked up both tires on the net, and don't know what, if any, effect the 405 would have as opposed to the 404.

Does anyone know of any other causes for drifting to the right? I live down a long dirt driveway, and I can see the dirt farther on the tread to the left on the tire.

Thanks.

If the axel is loose it can cause the rear wheel to shift. Can cause a drift.

Hmm, if ya changed it yourself, I'd guess you've done it before, but are ya sure the beads are seated correctly?
Also, did you get it balanced at all?

The 150 size shouldn't cause any effect such as you described.

Yes, everything was good as far as mounting, etc... I checked the pressure in the shocks, and the left had more pressure than the right. I bled the left, and it seems to be riding better, although it still seems to drift. However, it might just be in my head, now, since I was worried about it.

Also, a little oil came out of the valve when I bled it. Does anyone know if that could be a problem?

Thanks for you help.
Tony

Tony,
I adjusted my shock air pressure and some slight oil came out as well. I was told that the fine spray loss wasn't enough to hurt. However, it does make a mess to clean up on the chrome, huh?

By the way, I see you are in Selma. I get down that way frequently for my work. Love the Swamp restaurant!!!

Hey Ben,

You just reminded me that it's been a while since I've been to the Swamp. I'll have to go this weekend.

What kind of business brings you down from Ohio to little ole' Selma?

T

I spend a considerable amount of time in the paper mill. I have come to really enjoy the folks (and the weather) in that area. And, Hog Heaven is an added bonus as well...

In fact, last spring, I was considering a permanent move to the area for work, but things changed at the last minute. So, I am stuck with Ohio weather and the 4 months of riding opportunity I get each year. :(