Hey, does the regulator need to be grounded or does the plug already take care of that? Basically, do I need to attach it to a metal spot, or can it be attached to anything?


I hope I get an answer quickly, as thats the last (keepin my fingers crossed) thing I have to do to get the bike running after my stator replacement.


Ben

Hey, does the regulator need to be grounded or does the plug already take care of that? Basically, do I need to attach it to a metal spot, or can it be attached to anything?


I hope I get an answer quickly, as thats the last (keepin my fingers crossed) thing I have to do to get the bike running after my stator replacement.


Ben

No xtra ground needed...it's grounded via the harness.
If convenient, an xtra gound lead from the mounting screws wouldn't hurt, tho....

Hey,thanks. Righnow,I sortahave a temporary location for it, but later I'll be redoing it with a real metal bracket properly.

Ben

Ok i know im new here, but i have a R/R question also.

The three yellow wires, does it matter which of the three yellow wires on the harness they connect to?

And also, is the signal wire from the ignition switch/junction box, a smaller guage wire than the others on an OEM harness?

I'm just getting ready to do stator & R/R replacing myself.
Not too sure on the wire sizes, but the 3 yellow wires should be interchangable.

Not too sure on the wire sizes, but the 3 yellow wires should be interchangable.

wire size seems to be 12-14 gauge stranded. I went with 10 gauge stranded 200c teflon. though its stiffer, it will do better with the heat, and chemical resistance that seems to plague these wires. All 3 wires are interchangeable, make sure you get a good splice, each wire needs to be able to run about 10 amps peak, and if you get a bad slice done, it will fry it. i suggest doing a wire splice, solder it, and use a polyeflin shrink on it...

Mine's not grounded after the relocation. Been fine since.

All the parts inside the r/r are electrically isolated from the case, no electrical ground is needed.

However, a good heatsink to mount it on sure wouldn't hurt.

Jon

I relocated my rectifier/regulator after replacing the stator and it didn't need grounded other than the harness ground wire.

I intended to replace the wires from the stator leads into the R/R plug, but couldn't find the fastin female connectors to install into the harness connector housing at the R/R. Does anyone know where to get these? They are crimp-on, but have a spring retaining barb in the back to hold them in the housing.

I know that, if I replace these wires, it is necessary to slice into the headlight relay with one leg of the alternator (one yellow wire) because the alternator voltage pulls the relay in. After being engaged by the alternator, the ignition circuit latches the headlight relay on.

I fused my stator leads where they connect to the harness. As discussed elsewhere on the site, I also found it necessary to use 15 Amp fuses. The 10 Amp fuses popped in about a minute.

Pictures here: Yahoo Photo Album: Fused Stator (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/derwinkle2001/album/576460762387505038)

I fused my stator leads where they connect to the harness. As discussed elsewhere on the site, I also found it necessary to use 15 Amp fuses. The 10 Amp fuses popped in about a minute.

do you have an aftermarket stator? the stock stator should be fine with 10 amp... if you have an aftermarket, then i can see where the 15 amp would be needed...

I used the Rick's replacement stator. What is the cause of a higher current from the aftermarket stator?

I used the Rick's replacement stator. What is the cause of a higher current from the aftermarket stator?

I too have Rick's but have not measured the amperage out of the stator.
I would suspect that any stator would probably put out greater than 10 Amps, I fused mine with 20A fuses. If something south of the stator shorts, it will blow a 20A plenty fast. I thought the 15A was too close to the maximum the stator will put out under normal use.

This:

1000 RPM 5.5A
2000 RPM 12.3A
3000 RPM 13.5A
4000 RPM 14.0A
5000 RPM 14.3A
6000 RPM 14.5A
7000 RPM 14.7A
Then back down to idle >
1000 RPM 6.3A
2000 RPM 12.3A
3000 RPM 13.4A
4000 RPM 14.1A
5000 RPM 14.4A

is what someone measured on a healthy system.

That's why I went with 20A fuses instead of 15's.

Jon

Oh yes, I see what you mean about using 20 Amp fuses. Sounds like a good idea.

I have a fancy clamp-type amp probe and I tested at the battery. I measured negative current flow until RPMs reached about 2500. The battery was fully charged and at idle the battery was running the bike. At higher RPMs the alternator was supplying enough current to run the whole bike and flow current back into the battery. That's what the table above would have shown if measured at the battery, instead of the stator leads.

I'm carrying extra fuses.