Adjuster-lashes (hydraulic valve lifters) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Adjuster-lashes (hydraulic valve lifters)

Dear Forum
Need some help and hope, I can make myself understandable in english :-)
I have a Kawasaki VN750 Twin from 1986. Has been driven 38.000 miles. As the engine used oil and the compression on cylinder # 1 was 130 psi and 150 psi at cylinder # 2 (manual says 120-190 psi), I chose to separate the engine and replace piston rings, O-rings and all gaskets. I also sanded valves and valve seats (looks very fine) and replace valves oilseals. I was careful to put the right valves back into the cylinder, where they came from. By contrast, I was not so careful to put the adjuster-lashs in their original place and I did nothing else, but put them back on after gevin them a whiff with airpistol.
Now the engine is assembled, but cannot start. There is ignition on all spark plugs and gasoline in caburators. But there is almost no compression on any cylinders. First measurement showed 25 psi on cylinder # 1 and 100 psi on cylinder # 2. On the next measurements, I could hardly measure any compression at all on both cylinders. So the compression is worse than before the renovation and the compression seems to get worse from the first to the second and third measurement after renovation.
This may be the reason that the engine will not start. The reason for the missing compression may be leaking gasket head or leaking valves on both cylinders. But I think more, that it has something to do with the adjuster-lashes. Does any of you guy have experience / knowledge about how to replace adjuster-lashes ? They are extremly costly to replace with new ones.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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I have just seen this exellent video:
Before replace the adjuster, he clean it up and fil oil in the hole.
I did't do that, so that could be the reson for my problem ?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 07:35 AM
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a couple quick things.. did you follow the cam timing procedure (in manual) TO THE LETTER. if you dont, it wont be right. Also, cams MUST go back into original position.

something caught my eye in your post...

you SANDED the valves and seats?? that will put very fine scratches in them and essentially rune them. at that point I would be looking for new (to you) heads from ebay or similar.

if the valves where not opening (collapsed adjusters) whatever air was in cylinders when assembling would be giving you some compression (it would be low, or even 0). to see if the valves are opening, on the intake side you can crank the engine with your hand over a carb, you should feel sucking on your hand.

2005 VN750
33.5k and counting
original stator (as far as I know)
ear shave, using Uni pod filters.
Pickup coils at 0.020 gap
VN900 seat mod
led's turns front and rear
MOSFET R/R, mounted under left side cover
2-wire mod to bypass clutch/neutral nanny switches
removed side stand switch.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Hi and thanks a lot
Yes I follow the cam timing procedure.

I use recommended pasta to grind the valves and valveseats :-)

I try to lay my hand over the cabs and turn the engine by hand over cabs several times. No sucking on any cylinder. To bee sure, I also put some thin transparent folie (for foodstuff) over and secure/tight with rubberband. Only on cylinder #1 there was a very little movement to see on the folie. On cylinder #2 there was no movement to see.
Indicate that the intake valves do not open and therefore, probably, the same with the exhaust valve.
Hope you understand :-)
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 10:38 AM
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I understand. what you did to the valves/seats wasnt sanding, it sounds like you lapped them, which is a safe procedure. it really just cleans and fine tunes the valve face and seat so they seal better.

it does sound like you have something assembled wrong, and to fix it will probably require pulling the engine out again, so you can at least get to the top of the heads
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2005 VN750
33.5k and counting
original stator (as far as I know)
ear shave, using Uni pod filters.
Pickup coils at 0.020 gap
VN900 seat mod
led's turns front and rear
MOSFET R/R, mounted under left side cover
2-wire mod to bypass clutch/neutral nanny switches
removed side stand switch.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 12:06 PM
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Agreeing with mtb .....

I suspect you have valves stuck open, valves leaking, or valves opening at the wrong time, either would prevent any pressure or vacuum building up at all.

If valves were staying closed, there would still be some 'breathing' of the cylinders, and you would have seen some slight movement when you had the carbs covered with plastic wrap.

Any chance the cams got mixed up? This would make the valve timing totally off and prevent compression/vacuum.

2003-19k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Me and Cinderella, we put it all together, we can drive it home, with one headlight.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 12:41 PM
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You could try to pour about a teaspoon of engine oil into each piston, though a spark plug hole then try to start it. Sometimes dry cylinders won't seal with the new rings Did you coat the cylinders with oil during re-assembly? I have had engines lose compression after setting for long periods of time because the cylinder walls were dry. Adding a little oil will help the rings seal and give you enough compression to start. after starting the rings will "seat" and you should have no problems. I hope you did not mix up the cams, However the intake and exhaust are noticeably different. Also is it possible the "rocker arms slipped off the valves. I have one apart right now and those little thing keep falling to the side and I have not even taken the valves out.

No Brain - No Pain. I measure a man by the good he does for others, not his mistakes. One more for forgiving Wolfie.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to you all.
The cams was not mix :-)
I will now dis-assamble the engine and try again. I think I will find the problem either in leaking valves or oil-dry adjuster-lashers.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 10:14 PM
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Well did you find out if it was the HLA's. The bike I've been working on has been setting on the bench for 3+ weeks so I have been considering bleeding them although we did not take the top end apart. I figure they may have lost oil and air gotten in over time. I also figured it would not make a huge difference in starting.

No Brain - No Pain. I measure a man by the good he does for others, not his mistakes. One more for forgiving Wolfie.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green1 View Post
Well did you find out if it was the HLA's. The bike I've been working on has been setting on the bench for 3+ weeks so I have been considering bleeding them although we did not take the top end apart. I figure they may have lost oil and air gotten in over time. I also figured it would not make a huge difference in starting.
Hi Green1
I gues you with HLA's meen adjuster-lashers (hydraulic valve lifters)?
No not yet. The engine is still on the bike :-)
By the way - I did coat the cylinder before re-assambly.
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