carb syncing and a rant - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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carb syncing and a rant

Where is the best place to connect my home made sync device to the carb?

Also, why in gods name did they put the screws that hold the carbs to the center float so ungodly tight..... uhg.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 01:03 PM
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You connect it to each vacuum port on the carb.

You will run out of fuel in the bowls if you take too long since the petcock is vacuum operated. If you still have emissions junk, make sure to plug that line when you have it disconnected.

Can place a T in the vacuum to the petcock, but I'm not sure how that would affect readings. Also can use a syringe or w/e to apply vacuum to keep fuel flowing.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I'm on the last screw and can't get it. It's just too tight. I've had to dremel it into a flathead and it still tore the metal up trying to get it off. I may not get to that float.

I had a clogged pilot jet on the rear and the front was 50% clogged. Pretty nasty in there. Front was burning the plugs black carbon, rear was washed with gas. Bike wouldn't run on 2 cyl's until it got to a pretty good rpm.


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 06:05 PM
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If the screw is too screw up, then you can try to dremel out the top head of the screw completely. Of course this is a last resort.

Don't take my word for it. I'm just a foolish newbie.
When in doubt, just know that I am only joking around.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I can cut it off, but I have no extractors. That poses an issue when I need to put it back together 20 mins later cause that holds the float tight to the seal.


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 09:26 AM
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Is there room to get small vise grips over the end and twist it loose? Have done that on a lot of small screws.

Small chisel or screwdriver blade, tap into the outer edge to turn the screw?

Or before any of that, put the screwdriver into the head and smack it.

Some careful heat may help, but not hot enough to melt rubber/plastic inside.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately no there's not. I've done that a lot but this time there's no room.


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2005 Vulcan VN750 (silver)
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 12:09 PM
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Carbs are the only part I haven't dealt with much on this one, so I don't have a good mental picture of the problem.

Trick I've done before.... Take all the other screws out and tweak the bowl/cover counterclockwise while trying to turn the screw.

2003-19k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 12:52 PM
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Regarding the use of heat on the carb screw, I just had a thought, but have never tried it myself.

Would holding the tip of a heavy duty (140 watts) soldering gun on the head of the screw, supply enough heat to do any good?

IIRC the screws in question have +(cross/Phillips look-a-like) heads.
They are actually Japanese Industrial Standard, or JIS screws.
The JIS screwdriver bit actually has a tip with sides that virtually parallel to prevent torqueing out of the screw head in high effort conditions.

The Phillips screwdriver has a more tapered bit, but will work in most conditions in JIS screws, IF THEY ARE NOT TOO TIGHT.

One suggestion to avoid stripping out Phillips screw heads is to not use cheap screwdrivers made with soft metal.
Buy professional quality with HARDENED TIPS.
The one I have now was expensive compared to the other screwdrivers that I have, but is worth every penny of the $15-17 that I paid for it a few years ago.

Another suggestion to avoid stripping out the head is to make sure the screw head is cleaned out completely of dirt, grease or any other crud before inserting the screwdriver bit.

Gordon

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlHossCanada View Post
Regarding the use of heat on the carb screw, I just had a thought, but have never tried it myself.

Would holding the tip of a heavy duty (140 watts) soldering gun on the head of the screw, supply enough heat to do any good?

IIRC the screws in question have +(cross/Phillips look-a-like) heads.
They are actually Japanese Industrial Standard, or JIS screws.
The JIS screwdriver bit actually has a tip with sides that virtually parallel to prevent torqueing out of the screw head in high effort conditions.

The Phillips screwdriver has a more tapered bit, but will work in most conditions in JIS screws, IF THEY ARE NOT TOO TIGHT.

One suggestion to avoid stripping out Phillips screw heads is to not use cheap screwdrivers made with soft metal.
Buy professional quality with HARDENED TIPS.
The one I have now was expensive compared to the other screwdrivers that I have, but is worth every penny of the $15-17 that I paid for it a few years ago.

Another suggestion to avoid stripping out the head is to make sure the screw head is cleaned out completely of dirt, grease or any other crud before inserting the screwdriver bit.
I have never stripped a Phillips screw head since getting this hardened tip driver, and cleaning out the screw head prior to applying any torque to it.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127
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