LED vs stock bulb - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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LED vs stock bulb

In another thread, debugging a tach, a side conversation started talking about replacing the various bulbs with LED's for the power savings.

Looking up the specs on the stock gauge bulbs.. 160 millicandles bright, 250 milliamp ( 1/4 amp ) current, ~60 ohms filament resistance, at 14V ( not 12 ). Reference number 92069 Part number 92069-1007. Service manual notes it at 12v.

92069-1007 KAWASAKI - incandescent-miniature lamp light bulb lamp - donsbulbs - light bulbs lamps valve valves tube tubes

Looking up a nice cheap spec order LED...

Kingbright - WP7113QBC/D - Round 2200mcd 468nm 30mA Clear Lens 5mm T1-3/4 Blue Thru-Hole LED - Allied Electronics

2.2 candles at 30 milliamps. 8 times less current for 12 times more brightness. ( don't look at the dash, it will blind you ).

12 volts / 0.025 ( 25 milliamps ) yields 480 ohms for resistance in series. Voltage squared ( 144 ) divided by Resistance is power consumption... 144/480 = 0.3 watts so... 10 times less power consumed for about 10 times more light.

RCD Components - CF50S-471-JTW - Axial Tol 5% Pwr-Rtg 0.5 W Res 470 Ohms Carbon Film Resistor - Allied Electronics

470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, min order 10 at 4 cents apiece... circuit would draw about 25 milliamps at 12v which should light up that LED just fine. At 14v, it would draw 29 milliamps which is still under spec for the 30 milliamp rated LED.


If this preliminary design looks funky/flawed in any way, feel free to jump in and scream.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 12:32 AM
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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Electronics made easy for Doc

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Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.Its all Greek to me.

Consider "electrons" to be drops of beer. Voltage is how much beer pressure is in the keg. The reason it's called "volts" instead of "buds" is because the first guy that ever started trying to measure "electric pressure" had a last name of "Volta". For the bike to operate correctly, we try to make sure our keg always has at least 12 cans of beer ready to squirt out the tap, and i do mean continuously.

As the beer flows from the tap, we split it off into various channels to do various things. In that respect, much of the wiring harness is just like the bartender pouring out a mug of beer and sliding it down the bar to each of the "customers" until we shut down the engine and turn off the key.

One particular customer is for example, a dash-bulb. When it turns on, it is getting drunk. Like all customers, the dash-bulb sucks down beer to get lit. That's probably why people get lit the same way, but that's another story. After sucking down a beer, eventually, the bulb has to piss it out. One wire sucks in the beer, the other pisses it out. As long as the bulb is drinking beers, it will stay lit, as soon as the bar closes, the light passes out. The rate at which the bulb can drink and piss is important so that it gets lit correctly. If it drinks too many beers without pissing it will blow up. Fortunately, it's impossible to piss without drinking so it's only important to measure how many beers per second the bulb requires to stay lit. Beer flow into the bulb and piss flowing out the bulb is always constant while it's getting lit, and the rate of flow of beer is measured in Amps. We call the flow of beer current, just like current in a river of beer. A milliamp is 1/1000th of an amp, so 1 amp = 1000 milliamps. 1/4 of an amp is .25 amps which you can just add a zero on the end to .250 amps to see how easy it is to convert to 250 milliamps. If one milliamp were the same as one mug of beer, the stock bulb is chugging 250 beers per second just to stay lit.

Candles for bulbs are how drunk the bulb can get, regardless of how many beers it drinks or how fast it drinks them. The stock bulb can only get "so drunk" before it simply saturates. The effect is sort of like drinking 3.2% beer all day long and only getting a headache instead of even a slight buzz. The drunkest the stock bulb can get is 0.16 candles which is the same as 160 milli-candles. So that's sort of like saying that even though the bartender is sliding 250 beers per second down the bar, the best this bulb is going to do is feel the effects of 1.6% beer, but the keg feels the loss of pressure just the same and the rest of the bar customers are just as ornery about it as usual because most of them are exactly the same as that bulb.

Finally, there is also a little friction on the bar itself. This makes sure that regardless of how fast the bartender could slide mugs along the rail, the table-top of the bar is waxed in a way that keeps them only going "so fast". This is called Resistance, and it's measured in units of Ohms because.... you guessed it, the last name of the first guy that tried to figure out why the bartender was so slow to slide was "Ohm". The wax on the bar, though, is very important because if the bar is too slick, the bartender will slide more beer down the rail than the bulb can even drink, even if the bulb is only getting lit like 1.6% beer, he won't be able to piss it all out fast enough and will simply blow up. For the stock bulb, though, he was created with wax inside his throat ( internal resistance ) so in effect, the bar itself, stock, is just a wire... the slickest bar there can be. As the bartender slides the mugs down the rail, they simply form a line of glasses up to the bartenders wrist but the bartender keeps the pressure on that line of at least 250 glasses per second.

Now... the LED ( light emitting diode ) is sort of like a young 20 something female in a plastic dress that walks into the bar. Our job as bar managers is to kick the old bulb off his stool and give the lady a seat. Before we can do that though, we want to make sure the rest of the bar is happy, especially the keg. We are sure that if we can correctly arrange her seating, she is going to get plenty drunk and that's going to make the whole bar a lot happier. According to what we've heard about her, when she drinks our normal swill from the keg, its the same as getting drunk upwards of 22% beer. ( woot! ) The other sweet thing about her is that to get the 22% drunk effect, she only needs 30 beers per second instead of the 250 the bulb guy was drinking. The problem though, with her, is that because she is a young female, her throat has yet to be well seasoned like an old bulb guy. If she drinks MORE than 30 beers per second, she's upchuck right there and then all over the bar, her head will slam into the rail, she'll pass out and never wake up again. So, obviously, we want to avoid that situation.

We can't change the keg, we want the pressure on that keg to always be the same. We can't change the bar itself, but we CAN change the wax on top of the bar. We will rough it up a little bit using Mr. Ohm's measuring tools so that regardless of how fast the bartender tries to sling mugs down the rail to the lady, the fast as will ever be able to slide will be a maximum of 30 beers per second. After reading the little rules on side of the wax can, we want to apply about 480 layers of wax. So that is the approximate situation we want. Also, as the mugs slide over the top of the wax, they will heat up the bar from the extra friction. Too much heat will cause the bar to burn down and impossible to send the lady any more beer. The "finish" of the wax needs to be such that it can resist the extra heat. We read the side of the can again and that level turns out to be about 300 milliwatts ( or about 1/3rd of a watt ). This is actually great news because the old bulb that was drinking here before was belching up 10 times that much heat into the room just from getting a 1.6% beer buzz. So this is going to make all of the other customers happier since instead of an A/C, this bar only has a fan that turns on when the bartender starts to sweat too much.

The entire point of the entire replacement should be obvious. There are at LEAST a dozen of these old hot bulbs hogging up all of the stools heating up the bar belching, tiring out the bartenders arm drinking 250 beers per second each and they are only getting half a headache instead of getting seriously lit. Does it make sense why i'd want to fill the bar up with plastic ladies for under $10 price tag? I thought so.

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 02:58 AM
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Damn man that was the best description of how electricity works.I have worked in many bars and am a drinker so I understand it well
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
Damn man that was the best description of how electricity works.I have worked in many bars and am a drinker so I understand it well
I already ordered 25 LED's and 50 resistors. Total cost was about 7 bucks plus shipping.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 06:18 PM
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i have never regretted switching to leds. my cost was more because i dont have the patience to build them and i know it put money in KC's pocket when i bout his. everything but my cluster lights and headlight is led and im searching to change them as well

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 07:06 PM
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Several years back I switched my turn signals to LED units. I also switched out the stock brake light bulbs for LEDs and added an LED license plate that has both additional brake lights as well as turn signals. The front and rear stock turn signal units now put out a bright constant running light effect as well as the rear ones also acting as additional brake lights over and above their natural function as just turn signals. The license plate holder has two of the four rows of LEDs acting as additional running lights when its not also used for two rows of brake lights and/or turn signals. Bottom line: the bike is much more lit up. Now, admittedly, I wasn't really caring too much about the specific beer flow these changes brought about but was more interested in improving my ability to be seen by the other idiots on the road. I was aware that the beer flow would be reduced though and that did play a part of my decision to make the changes but simply being brighter was the main desire. The end result was better than I had hoped for and is a no-brainer, easy to do modification for all to do. That being said, while I absolutely LOVE the beer explanation of electricity, I find myself in an odd position regarding this wonderful explanation. My life-long position has always been to have MORE beer rather than less! But in this specific context, less is better. So, RoadHopper, that's a darn good teaching method for getting the points across!
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 08:24 PM
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I need a pair of custom shaped LED boards for my rear turn/running lights. Sort of a flat sided cateye. Was thinking about just soldering leads onto a bulb. The bulb in there now is a really small, dual filament and only lights up the end of the lens.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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speaking of beer signals

Lydia ( my ride ) is an '87. The chrome tops of her beer signals have been pitted exposing the plastic underneath the chrome-like finish. Now i realize that everyone else already knows what i am about to say, but just in case . . .

A friend of mine was looking at them today while we were standing around the bike yapping about 20 year old chicks in plastic dresses and mentioned, "Well, they are identical parts, just swap the left with the right". I said, "huh"? Then he said, "yeah so that tops will be on the bottom", and the tiny 3 watt bulb in my brain lit up, but only momentarily ( lack of beer pressure ).
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
I need a pair of custom shaped LED boards for my rear turn/running lights. Sort of a flat sided cateye. Was thinking about just soldering leads onto a bulb. The bulb in there now is a really small, dual filament and only lights up the end of the lens.
Can you draw it? upload a graphic or a photo of a drawing?
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