In the process of rebuilding my old VN75o (I used to ride it when I was a teenager).
I am not a mechanic, all I do is follow manuals and step by step directions, so
I got no spark, reading a troubleshooting manual it states that you have to check your stator, I did that, went to a shop here that works on electric motors, they checked it and it is fine, so now I am supposed to check the rectifier(?). I managed to find it in the bike, have no clue how to check if it works or not. A new one costs only 100 bucks, but still, it is 100 bucks that could go down the drain if that is not the problem.
I am not sure if you are checking the right things here..."no Spark" suggests that the plugs are not firing, which means coils or pickup.
Stator and R/R (regulator/rectifier) have to do with the charging system.
Exactly what is it the you are after here....does it turn over and not fire?
If the battery is good, the bike turns over, and you have no ignition....that is one issue. If your battery will not charge while bike is running....that is another issue. We need to determine if you have an ignition or charging problem before we can go forward.
If you give as much details as possible, I am sure someone can help out.
You can check the ignition coil resistance with the ohm meter function on a multimeter. (The ohm symbol looks kind of like an inverted horse shoe.)
Disconnect 12 V wires from coil, and leads from the spark plugs.
Warm the coil to at least 20*C/68*F with a hair blow dryer or some such before taking the readings.
The primary circuit is 12v and has two male spade connectors on one end of the coil.
The resistance between those two connectors should be between 1.8-2.2 ohms.
The resistance of the high voltage secondary circuit between the two spark plug leads connected to the coil should be between 19K - 29K ohms.
If you get infinite resistance (no continuity), the circuit is broken, (open--the opposite of a short).
To discover whether the open is in the coil, or if one of the plug wires is broken, take the plug wires off the coil and test each component separately.
The plug wires should test at about 5-7K ohms per foot of length.
The coil should still test at 10-15K ohms.
Report back with the readings you get and we will work from there. :smiley_th
yes there is a way to test the pickup coils and the ignition coils. first off, the pick up coils are located behind the stator cover... there is a 4 wire connector behind the engine on the left side (IRRC bheind the left side cover) Test the four wires with a testlight grounded out to the frame or negative battery terminal) check each one for flashing light while cranking the engine (only 2 wires should blink other 2 should do nothing as they are ground). Next test the ignition coils for power
i just had same issue i found pickup coil wire fried and the plug to regulator friedthe plug kept the 12v from going to front ignition coil, i replaced wires and now everything works fine except it took the regulator out. so i would cover all grounds and look everything over.
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